monstaru

a 32/36 jetted for an ea series car is fine.if you go any bigger on your jets your just wasting fuel.i tried three different setups and i ended up back at the starting point because of fuel consumption. whatever redline jets them as is what you want.might mess with idle control but that is about it. cheers,brian

i apologize.been a couple of weeks.long story short.we will have to wait a bit for this saga to continue.we are moving and i get a real garage/shop!setup for welding no less. anyways.cheers,brian http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86431

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86431 this is whats going on right now.cheers, brian:banana:

make your adjustment for base tuning first.then mess with the advance.glad to hear it working out for you.did it work out for you as easily as you wanted it to?cheers, brian

you can make an intake yourself.it is relatively simple.get some jb weld a good pair of pliers and go to town. whenever i set up an intake for a weber i leave one vacuum opening on the passenger side.and block off all of the others. the drivers side is a little different.pm me to remind me to take a pic of the one i have downstairs.cheers,brian

vac advance. "I did the vac advance test thing where you blow in the tube to see if it moves and it doenst really move. " you need to suck to see if it moves. am i smart rump roast, or did you just post that wrong?cheers, brian

sounds like a vacuum problem first off.then a clutch disc possibly bad throwout bearing prob second.possibly one tooth off on disty? the actual running of the motor does good right? when you were on the lift did you try an"drive " it ? the vacuum probs with the weber a relatively simple to alleviate.get rid of everything that is in the way.clean up your engine bay by removing unecessary connections. this may help with power isue. second.if you did drive it on the lift then did it do the same thing with no resistance?in other words without the wheels on the ground does it "buck"?if not it may a tension issue on the clutch i would think. you saying thast it goes away when the clutch is pushed in is curious.when you release the clutch does it feel like it grabs for a sec then lets go?and continues this cycle? all i guess i am saying is that once upon a time i had a weber that was doing the same thing as far as power was concerned.i realized i forgot to hook up my vacuum port on the front and voile'.done. now i also had a clutch not grab properly.replaced throwout bearing,and pressure plate to fix that.in retrospect i had thought i maybe had it backwards ,but do not think that is physically possible.anyways. setting your weber to the base settings every time you mes with some type of vacuum is almost necessary.you may also be running to large of jets. what primaries ,secondaries,and air correctors do you have?hope something helps.and if it comes down to it.just bring it over here .i'll take it. cheers, brian

individualy maybe not.but when mixed with carbon deposits its heaven(because it makes them disappear).if you wish to buy your own individual chemicals go ahead.but you will find it difficult to accomplish a consistency level that they have reached without specific dispensing machinery. now,the better question is what can seafoam do for you............try it.i have in several different types of engines,motors.from 1/2 hp to 300+ hp.have found conclusive results with all of them.will the environmentalist love me when they see me doing it......no.but in the longrun the cleansing that is accomplished internally will actually reduce certain types of emissions.and being a petroleum based product it is also a lubricant.so it is safer to run through than a detergant base. anyway you slice the cake i have used it and will continue to for as long as i can buy it.and when i cannot buy it anymore i will find a source and stock up. IE:55 year old bulldozer that a gentleman got tired of sprying ether down the throat on.(diesel,big no no)agonizing about taking it to the shop.we cleaned the injection pump nozzles,lines and injectors.pretty much the whole damn thing.granted we had to remove the pump and basically do a redneck rebuild.we were very far away from everything at the time.replaced a few o-rings with what we could find around the place.vavoom.the lubrication characteristics allowed the older pump to work more efficiently and therefore fire almost instantaneously. believ in it or not.it works.especially if you have to go through emissions and do not have the dough to lay down for a new this or new that.it has helped alot of folks on this board in ways like that. it also works as a winterizing agent.i use it in my lawnmower,tiller,weedeaters,and motorcycles.and instead of having to drain the preservative out , you just add fuel. i could go on and on.try it before you slam it.cheers, brian

the things that come to mind are wether or not the ea71 is a fatcase or not.meaning that the starter hole is still where it should be.as opposed to on the top. if the starter hole is on the top you would need to change it out with a bellhousing that has the starter hole on the side in normal position. now, i do not know personally that changing out the bellhousings is posssible.but your smart enough to figure somethin out if need be;) .cheers, brian

try www.rallitek.com they may have a setup like that.if not i would trust them to tell me where to go for it.cheers, brian

side bar........ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85600 what is happening before i go further on the truck.as well as getting rid of some more weight i have to unload before i can buy any more parts.cheers, brian

nice.one phrase.limited slip............if you lsd'd the front and rear of that car it would go anywhere.good drivin.that one without the harness on could have been bad. cheers,brian

i've got a few options for the rear.and will be checking those out as soon as i am home. today i start building the welder.i have everything but the resistors now.yesterday was very fruitful as i acquired enough welding lead to kill a small village from superbrat. thanks for the link jared(to pirate).i usually stay away from there because the colors kill my eyes after a while of reading.and i have not figured out how to change them ,even in my control panel. cheers, brian

thats what i thought as far ad the springs too.i did not want to be ************in bohemoth.as it is i really did not want to go above 36's.we just don't have the rocks like you guys do over here.and honestly i need to learn how to drive a little better before i deserve anything bigger anyway. .i might still go with the chevs ,'cause i'd like to move the rear forward a bit more like i said.guess i'll cross that bridge when i get to it. what are you doing for shocks?that is what i wanted a pic for.are you triangulating them?i am trying to figure out the best idea for some on road ,mainly offroad. i have looked all over NWW,but have not found anything definitive.or are the spring rates of rear/waggy stiff enough to just rock?i'm new to this whole spring idea,obviously....so be gentle. i have read yours and several others like saidbut never hear anything about shocks.cheers, brian

hey jared.the waggy springs you got were the lifted springs?or regular?it would be sweet to shorten the wheelbase a bit.can you taka pic of the rear for me?like underneath.i just don't have anyones truck to compare it to. i have a line on some 58"chevy springs,i know peeps are using 62 or whatver,but i do not know if i should use them.regardless with what i go with i will have some killer approach and departure angles. yep,killer.cheers, brian

************in a man.......alot better.i felt like i was going to turn out as a carpenters apprentice or something. i spent some quality fun time at the little ones school carnival this evening so after our welder retrieving trip tomorrow i may get some time to fool around measuring and raising the frame up to the body.WOOHOOOOO.......its on now.cheers, brian

got some bed mounts,the rear driveline piece cutout.(there will be a custom mount made later),and some old body lift blocks got cut/dismounted. i took the exhaust shielding and fuel tank off the brat.as well as the mustache bar mounts. i will need to do some cuttin on the rear valance of the brat,as well as taking the "tow" hooks off the front and rear.that is just to even out the mounting surface for the frame... we'll see where i'm at sunday.monday i go shopping for a friends engine swap.then on vacation for a week or so.so you might get bored jared. ..i am going to try and get some more done on sunday.cheers,brian

the house was built in 1908.so originally it was actually a carriage garage.like horse and buggy type of carriage. anyways,i just went and picked up some discs and a face shield.will be cutting the pieces i need gone off of the frame this afternoon.and possibly dropping the tank and other crap off of the body. as far as this weekend goes.who knows.will be going down to superbrats mill to pick up a welder that he is being VERY generous on.so who knows.also have my little girl this weekend and do not want her around a floating brat body as far as any "what ifs" are concerned.so it is not likely i would want her to help.which means probably not much until sunday afternoon when she goes home.other than that,she and i might work on a mount for the 8hp motor setup for the welder.whew,carpal tunnel.k.to the cutting of framehorns!!!!!!cheers, brian

this is how it turns out........ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83510 cheers, brian:grin:

yeah,it sucks when you do it yourself though.i'm use to it i guess.i just want a bigger shop. i think i deserve it. cheers, brian

you forgot beer.

let the measuring begin. some frame pieces will be cut off tomorrow or this weekend.i have to remove the fuel tank from the brat,and some exhaust shielding tomorrow as well.then i will measure twice and weld once. it looks like i will be able to mount it fairly easily actually.should be fun. also picked up the alternator i needed for the welder.and a couple of cadillac air ride compressors for my onboard air setup.still want a couple of subie compressors to compare,but then i'll just have more air than i need.hot air that is! cheers, brian

i do not play in legoland bodywise.can someone clarify the differences for body style,type or compatibility for legacy wagons in the 90's? i am looking to replace some 97 wagon fenders and front bumper skirting for a guy and need to know what to look for.what years will fit etc.cheers, brian

ok, so a little progress in the way of pics.of yesterdays happenings. still awaiting the arrival of the ever so elusive dollies. rear axle offish front axle out of the wayish the whole shebang met Lumpycam today.were gonna do some tradin it seems.can't wait for that.should net some good parts for the project. ok, ok.i will explain the welder.ok, so at my house i only have 100 amp service to my outside box.which means that is split between my entire house..the draw of a welder is much more than the circuits canhandle most of the time.in other words , when i weld the lights flicker. this has not been a huge problem in the past .well not for anyone except me.you see, my wife works as telecommuter from home for a major insurance company.which means she has the space shuttle setup in our bigroom.if she is connected to her system and the power goes out,she has to reboot everything.alot of things are time sensitive.as far as connection goes anyway.so it is a huge no-no to weld when she is working.well she works 5 days a week.and in the winter i am laid of 100% of the time usually.i still have another month at least.which is valuable time for projects.because when i go full swing,it will be full bore for at least 2 months. now, the solution i have come up with is to build an engine driven welder.it is much like kens on board i am sure.only driven by an 8hp gas motor.a few resistors and a large amperage alternator.i have done quite a bit of research on this so far and am confident after conferring with some welders that i know,that it will be more than sufficient for what i need to accomplish.i have all of the items lying aound anyway,except the alt(i want a new one to work with)so i figured why not.the only drawback will be that i have never stick welded. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84517&page=2 there a bunch of links in the thread above about this venture. but after a whilei will probably even be able to build a controller setup for it and make a tig setup out of it.whew(carpal tunnel) .capeesh?cheers, brian

lame......sorry to hear about your couldn't be helped surgery brau.oh well,just watch my thread.it will give you something to do. most of all, relax.if you don't you'll make it worse. they say to never trust anyone that says,trust me...........but trust me,if you don't relax you'll regret it.cheers,brian