monstaru

man, i read that page like three times. at different points in the brats evolution of course,not in a row.but a plethera of info on that one.stoked to have that bookmarked for sure.....cheers, brian

i dunno how yo can get ahold of 'em and i can't.maybe he'll still call me back.it would be nice.cause i am ready to by one in about a week..then.............. its on.

is the price on the website still valid?(i had an old website saved it was 325 on there) i see now that it is 395. inchworm wants like 439 plus shipping for one.did he say what shipping would be across the line?cheers, brian awesome,i'm glad i piped up.even though i was working on dated info.glad we could hash that out.

had to get rid of the frame i had.but just bought another one.from an 83.after the snow dies down abit and we get dug out over here i am to pick it up.the brat downstairs is already stripped of unnecessary weight.save the suspension.but thats just 18 bolts or so. doors are gone engine tranny out,no interior, no windows.pretty much a shell on wheels at this point.just waitin. i am trying to get enough space in the garage to lift the body up enough to roll the frame in under it in the next couple of weeks.but this snow has slowed me down a bit.i'll get pics as soon as i get the frame under her.that was the plan anyway.

i called OTT and never got a response.4 or 5 times actually.causei had the doe and was ready to purchase. that was last year. i just left a message with them again.we'll see if they get back to me.cheers, brian

you can buy a rebuild kit for the caliper at napa.it is fairly simple.there is only like 6 or 7 parts to the entire thing.comes with instructions cheers, brian

just said i had thought about it.......didn't say i had started planning it;) .good point though. i guess you could make it in a pinch bolt style through a bushing.or have some type of lock for speeds above say 15 .youd only really want it on trail anyway right?some type of magnetic lock could be accomplished,or better yet an air lock. or even better yet, you could run a cross bar from side to side in place of the mustache bar mount and have it connected to the trailing arms themselves somehow.i dunno.tons of possibilities cheers, brian the main thing here is to think outside the box.look at 50 different suspension setups online then come back and discuss them:lol: here is a good link for you to explore http://www.carbibles.com/suspension_bible.html

i been workin on gettin a project goin much like this for over a year and a half now..its slow goin for sure.oh, and jared.OTT doesn't make a divorce adapter anymore.only can be acquired through inchworm.(was reading old threads )

i don't like the fact that it has nothin roo but the body. and beastie,you seriously can't think that y9ou are the only one that has thought of this right? cheers, brian

i often thought about this as well.in effect you could fab a mount to where the now upside down diff is able to rotate so that the axles have more flex with the suspension. as far as being able to utilize the rear hubs and whatnot up front it would be easier i feel to just cut a rear axle in half,sleeve the rear outer to a front inner and weld it. that allows you to use a shock all around.the top mounting surface is easy enough with a lift block type idea,with shock mounting down below. to do it properly you would need extensive research on shocks to find which would be applicable for the front without coilsprings involved. i would think that a freshly rebuilt and clocked torsion bar would hold engine weight fine if the proper shock were found.say something from a 3/4 ton truck maybe?who knows.anyways,your not the only one who has thought about this. cheers, brian

/\ that pic is front of my house.i cut that brat up like that. i love this place.people hate me.then they meet me , and like me.or at least they are scared enough when they meet me not to say they don't like me. anyways.folks are usually alright here.most of all.most folks love the ************ i build.keep your eyes open boys and girls.there is more to come.i also like helping peeps out with parts.if they need it i probably can get it,have seen where to get it or have it in my back yard. and that makes me feel good.wipes a tear away.bastards.cheers, brian

truth, the man speaks the truth.i have done this twice(i did not have stock plugs on my fans)

your sitting here wanting to argue with people about silly ************. each of us has more time in these engines than god.have taken them all the way down and built them back up.with performance parts no less. would you go to a mechanic right out of school?or the one that wins drag races because he knows what works? just my opinion.sometimes you have to step outside the box.its ok, you won't get struck by lightning. and as far as maintenance goes, i have seen a rear main go on an ea81, so i change them religiously.because i hate slipping clutches,oil on my catalytic converter and gross smells. cheers, brian

cross reference.holy ************ G.D...we finally agree on something. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84449

d/r=dual range 4x4 -having a high range and low range s/r=single range 4x4-having only high range

do you have any pics of your car yet?

i vote for a welder,or generator.

i would rather run a 32/36 due to availability of used parts.i always buy new jets,unless i find good used ones.meaning i have had my eye on 'em. always rebuild my carbs after about 10 thou or so.and the availabilty of the 32/36 rebuild kits is rampant as opposed to some of the others that i would run.the range of the 32/36 is good from like 1500cc or so up to 2200cc.i believe those are the recomended ranges anyway. feel free to pipe in jim:grin: anyways,i guess it depends on what you are going for.if you are just lookin to get fuel in your motor you could buy a monkey and train him to sit on your fender with a funnel and gas can. but i prefer performance when it comes to my carbs.there is a wide range of options for jetting,mounting and etc. for the dgv series.i'll get off of my soap box. cheers, brian

that throttle shaft kit is sweet. maybe you should run over the kit costs and stuff like that again in the vendor forum jim.there are a lot of newbs around it seems.might drum up a little biz.(that and your old post on it is in the archives somewhere that they{newbs} can't seem to find).

ok go ahead, i'd like to see it properly performed. just a question though, have you ever messed with anything hydraulic?whether it be cylinders,switches,or pumps?just curious.cheers, brian

unless you had a reciprocating hydraulic pump, those would not work for the application you speak of.you see those are designed to be pumped full of fluid to actuate.then relieved of the fluid to compress.good idea, wrong application. and there are already automotive applications available for this. ie: flippin you switches yo.pro hopper has one of the best gigs around.

to bad its disassembled now.i am moving on to other avenues.like stated above,i just wanted to be the one out of the group of guys that i know working on the same type of motor to make her humm.and she did.i have proof.the world can see it,and i am ok with that.oh, and i could do the same thing to any other ej22 motor in about 3 days.for fitting,fab and fire.cheers, brian;)

i really did it more as an expiriment than anything else.i just wanted to be the first out of the guys i know working on it to have mine go,and go loud.

ditto........even as high as mine are,they could do with some tonin' down though....

the neutral skip speaks of is the transfer case.there is an "in between " spot that is between fwd and low while moving the 4wd lever.been a long time since i had a spd,so i can't remember exactly where the positioning is, but easy enough:just fiddle with it when you feel like starting the brat up and you'll find it.cheers, brian