monstaru

yes that was jackie chan,and that car is in washington.and i ************in love that movie.

check a hose on the front of the intake for me.....there are two of them.one on the left anf one on the right......i bet they ease your pain.sometimes a pin-hole leak is coming from one of those guys and is disasterously(?) annoying.maybe even just a screw tightening could solve your issues.i know these things you probably already know,just trying to make it easier for your head in the rush.

weld a bung for EA82 temp sensor into actual radiator? (EJ sensor not compatible with EA gauge, add EA sensor separately from ECU's circuit with the EJ sensor) if you have auto tranny outlets on your radiator a brass adaptor would be rather easy to find.

now, now boys,lets not fight over gang colors.we have respectable webspace here.

damn thats sexy,man i'm slackin.......

that was by far the sexiest thing i have seen lately,besides the obvious ones(yeah,my ol'lady is hot)........ nice work mang,nice breather.

the jeep application is tested and true.

no doubt they are way soft!(the chevelle shocks)they do make an air ride shock for the chevelle application that is adjustable.the softerr ones are the cheaper ones.the chevelles had springs in back if i am not mistaken.thats why.the rancho application is the better of what i have experienced.those are from a jeep tj?part number 5241.if i use those again i will not haul so much weight and blow them like before.(broken up concrete)from side jobs.i'm a *********************.

as i read it ,that is what it states.send an e-mail or pm to patrick and he should be able to clarify.cheers, brian

then your not doing it right:lol:

it is actually relatively simple connie.just do it. you will enjoy the new advantage this winter for sure.

i had the rump roast end of a brat sitting in my driveway for months on end. i even offered it up here on the board for free......what the hell is wrong with you people?

"and yes,i kinda do live here" thats ************ing priceless.

at 10 dollars more a tire you can get swampers and drive them on the road at highway speeds.

right on man,right on....

funny,i was thinkin the same thing........

do not cut your springs.lower the entire spring mount .look at a strut.envision the lower mount,well.... lower.make it so.the do the rear torsion bar like gd was saying.

i used to live in 'bama,i know what it looks like:grin: and what it tastes like unfortunately(dirtbikin')

i don't know if it is a good idea.but it appears to be in stock configuration for the hangers and angle of the pipe to meet with the midpipe.

it may give better flow characteristics going in to the dual carb manifold like that .but,you also have to consider that two webers would provide more fuel than one q-jet.and jetted properly they would ************in rocket on an ea81.the q-jet is a pretty picky carb man,if you picked it because you know it then,i'll shut up.but if you picked it because it is so common then and easy to find,well...you might want to talk to some older cats that have run it for 20 some years.i would not use that carb to save my life.i would go with a smaller holley or weber.yournot gonna use all those cfm's anyway.it will be a waste of fuel,and money.

sounds like a stud(not you)the "tire bolt" as you put it.got to your local tire store or auto store and take a lug nut with you.find however many you need or give me a pm and i can send you some.do you have disc brakes or drum?if you have drum it will be a tad more difficult.if you have disc then it is easier because you ca just take the hub off to get to the studs

thats gotta be alabama red clay mate.........

that looks like roundeye's?

the combination of angle stress and speed can result in some pretty bad blowouts.but, if you watch your angles,stay conscientious about your sped your still likely to get one that wants to go.or you could get lucky and never have one go.what i have found that happens is people think they need a new axle so they go buy a reman. unit from the local parts store and have no idea the quality that they are getting.some have proven good,and some have proven bad, from the same parts store,same part number,same reman manufacturer. pretty much if you want the minimal amount of worry from a set of front axles, i would go with gck brand axles.they are well known in the subaru community for being stout enough for our lifted rigs and obviously do well on the street. what you have to realize is that alot of us have ridden around with a torn boot for 1000's of miles through mud water,and whatever else we could find.whether that was out of laziness, or just plain stubborness,who knows.and when those axles started clicking,gone for 1000's of miles more.and not had a bad experience(read:axle coming out of cup and thrashing control arm,brake lines etc...) they are designed as a weak link so that the cost of repair is relatively inexpensive .as opposed to the transaxle and such.cheers,brian

that can't be the same one!i'm faster ,jumpier and looks like i drank 5 beers before i did it!(and i didn't by the way,i promise)good run damnit,maybe i was being to critical before.cheers, thanks b,brian