monstaru

the size of an oil cooler might be better.or an intercooler.just a thought.why would you need a reservoir?continous flow seems like it would be a more efficient way to handle that. you could probably get some copper coolant tubing that you could utilize .ya'know,like the coolant system on the back of a fridge.??i dunno,just babbling

you rollin through spokane?look baccaruda and i up if ya do.send a pm if ya go through and i'll give our numbers.cheers,brian

timing........:grin:then vacuum advance,then idle jet.those are my bets in order

you would not want to route it in the cabin.there are certain chemical emmissions that happen from the rotation of the rotor that could be detrimental to your health and probably your interior too.now if your idea was to pressurize your cabin i would say go for it:grin:

good shave on the times ken.thats awesome.

it actually had some double bars that were split in the middle below those.i sacrificed them for the clearance i wanted in front of the tires.they may reappear at a later date for the skidplate,in a different configuration. and beefy is not what i care about anymore.i know this bumper will do the job of stopping something if need be. it is 2x2 1/4 inch wall tubing.after shedding some pounds from the other bumper (see below),monstaru now has some more spring in her step.there is a huge difference in weight.it actually seems like she is sitting higher when you are in the cockpit.i do have some other pieces planned , but had to get her streetable as she is my daily driver.and only had monday afternoon and tuesday.

i forget, do 4spds have a neutral area inbetween 4hi and 4lo?i know my 5spd does.and it is almost not noticeable,at least until you get used to it?maybe?

so i though i would get some actual progress done as the brat is going to be purely a toy by the end of the summer.not truly done,adding pieces to the bottom later on and some other mods with the front of the brat anyway.but,accomplishment is accomplishment ,so i thought i would share, here we have part of a junkyard bumper(my own mounts) and some modded fenders,whatcha think? all i know is that I like it

i would think the gr2's would be a tad stiffer.it just comes down to whether or not you want the adjustability.the stiffness is not going to waiver that much.i would go to every shock site you can find and do some research on the different struts and shocks so that you can make an educated decision.oh,and if you found bilsteins to fit,and could afford them,i would go there.

not necassarily.i got some wheel spacers for my chev for 20 bucks.granted that was two, but 40 bucks all around aint bad either .it was at a smaller store that had used and new.i am sure if you search you could find some on the cheap.how bad do you want it?

averted disaster.did i mention that i have had two incidents where i though it was a throwout now and have gotten no farther than the cable.......DO NOT BUY NAPA CLUTCH CABLES

first of all ,thanks for all of the reminders guys(it is easy to overlook the dumb stuff).and on the four spd i ran a dust plate and ran the rubber timing hole cover.the 5 spd had both until this last engine change when i lost the damn rubber ,and the dust plate would not fit again(for some dang reason),i even had it modified to go over the bigger flywheel.anyways,in my process i start from the easiest to the hardest.today i started with the easiest(the clutch cable) and was ready to work towards the hardest.i just got done putting in an entirely different pedal box from the parts brat and found that the 82 pedal box had a different clutch cable from the 86(which by the way is a biatch to get in in comparison to the 82).so i got it in and it seems to function properly.i am about to go on a test drive.i'll check in later.cheers

'cause monstaru sure likes to eat them.......i wonder if they have a grape flavor,maybe tangerine.wow that would be neat. it would also be neat if i didn't have to change them every six months.like i have for the past year and a half.and am about to in a moment.again.for the third time. two trannies,one 5 spd,one 4 spd.have eaten a throwout bearing.excuse me ,the 4 spd ate two.awesomely brand new clutch on a 4 spd,still ate one,newer clutch on the 5 spd,still ate one.i don't get it.i clean my input shaft off,replace spring clip dealybobbers,put new throwout bearing on,drive for a fewthousand and end up not being able to push in the clutch at all eventually.limp home.start over again.wtF...............bueller,bueller,bueller?????????????

sorry, but cheers to you junkie,me=

you are better off to go with an ifs from a toyota or nissan truck.way more clearance and flex.also designed for what you want to use it for.cheaper parts,and accessability.trust me , you are not the first one to think of these things.

annoyed no.several people have answered this question in the past couple of days.i simply believe that repetition is the only way to learn sometimes(for myself too)eternal smart -rump roast,yes.

ok, sometimes you just have to pay attention.it is from the ea-71.get a disty from an ea-71 .you need a points disty from an EA71, and modify the drive gear.you need a points disty from an EA71, and modify the drive gear.you need a points disty from an EA71, and modify the drive gear.you need a points disty from an EA71, and modify the drive gear.you need a points disty from an EA71, and modify the drive gear.

search for my thread on headlamp conversion.it wasn't that long ago.it was in the oldschool forum.lots of info there.

my custom guy does work for beers.......but not everyone is that lucky.braising it back together is actually laymans terms for arc welding.it is done with very little amperage and is actually the most efficient way to do it on the car.you can simply lay the rod and be done.it does take skill.now, if it is an ugly set of welds then i would say you got ripped off.but if they are pretty welds then i would just let it go.trying to mig an exhaust can be difficult if you do not know your amperage settings and do not know your correlation of metal thickness to amperage to speed of your welding ability(did that make sense?)sometimes you just have to pay for knowledge.

if you look in the first post and follow the link you can get all the info you need on the disty from the escort.......

Where on this lifted wagon is the least dusty air availiable? in the cab,sorry couldn't resist:grin:

i don't know about that,but i have mounted a gen 1 bumper /guard/winch thing on the front of my brumby before.hope that helps.all you can do is try.

ok....got help spotting this time.was able to get the absolute most out of my rear tire. 20 degree ramp this time.oops,423 was the score pics say it all

ok, the other day i got 385 on a 20 degree ramp.(doh edit the degrees) today i did a 25 degree ramp and was only 318. regular tire pressure.will have to get more batteries for the camera(*********************)you know who you are! sorry,her are some pics....pics i am also going to put my other rear shocks on this week and should gain a bit more as it will allow more travel obviously in the rear and keep that rear tire on the ground.

the disty comes from an 82 escort or exp.......there are two types.one with the ignition module attached......and one with it seperate.i voted for the attached module.just because.less hassle for me. the ea-82 application i am unsure of. i saw the link in the original post about 6 months ago whilst searching around the net.and have a ton of research on it since then.i have yet to get the damn motor together to get the proper curve,but i am very close to that as well. i tried justy disties with a plate inbetween the disty and the block,i tried a couple of mitsubishi ones and eventually narrowed it down to a justy ,a ford festiva,and the escort.the escort fits right in there .hence my decision to go with it.if aviation guys are using it i am sure that it will do for the street or woods.the size of motor on the escort was the closest as far as output in cc's.pics here