monstaru

Anyone super local to OLY?I would like to work out a deal to use your garage, sos I can put in a thermostat, and a front axle in the next wek, tomorrow would be awesome.Send a PM, and I'll get you my number. cheers

Here is a walk around video.No talking , but you get the point.Yes I need to adjust my valves.I just have been runnin around trying to get over to the wetside for work. I will take care of it soon. 1997 Impreza AWD 4.44's,LSdiff out back. suspension upgrades cooling system upgrades new tires I already wired in a second fuse block for the future lights,cb, and ancillaries. I have a turbo alternator that I need to put in. It drives well, has a few clunks here and there.The rear end may be a little tight , or completely shot.If so then I will just plop an vlsd in there. It chatters till it warms up.A front axle is clicking pretty bad, but the boot is good, and it barely shudders under pressure. Besides the valves, the engine runs awesome.Its even got guts with the auto.. welp, hope you like her. cheers

Well, since I have a REAL Horsepower increases, and AWWESOMENESS Horsepower increases, would say that the muffler is worth at least +20 HP:clap::-p.... cheers

I'll get right on that.I'll be sure to send the FUQ with it. I mean FAQ...

It could be done of you inset a nut somehow.I would not use a long bolt as the stresses are amplified the farther away the mounting surfaces are. I basically did those because I wanted to show people how they could do a strut lift themselves.Inn smaller sizes of course.I however did 2 inchers.Which comes with other issues.Like mounting, etc... I ended up using my metal strut blocks , because I did not have time to figure out the mount issues in time.These blocks are actually like 2 5/8ths ish the rest of my blocks are 2"ers....Thought I should clarify that I may come back to them eventually,but for anyone that is JUST doing a STRUT LIFT, I would recomend 1.5 inches and under for sure. I will say it again.You can do this with a drill, hacksaw(with wood blade), and some time, enginuity, maybe a few barley pops, and some love for your garage. anyways. If youa re not using the suspension in it's full range , you could get away with higher on just a strut lift.It seems that The magic number is cheers

Even I have feelings.She's not ugly man, just broken in

Got the dog bone done today, and installed a filler neck for the radiator.I think that I will do a video walkaround tomorrow. She is working her kinks out slowly but surely. I love driving her.I almost caused about 5 wrecks today!(from rubberneckers, not me ) cheers

We got her licked....Well the engine at least.I'll get in there , and see what is going on with the valves. Anybody got the valve specs? cheers

UH-OH is the title of the folder on Photobucket

WElp.She is home.I have an exhaust rattle,And a P0743 DTC. The crazy thing is that the TRansmission shifts gears just fine,Got it up to 75ish and was a good runner. This vid shows what it shows: New exhaust cat back from 05 STI w/super low miles.Never even ran in the rain. I will make a new dog bone tomorrow, Then I can clean the car up and out of stuff, so I can drive it and look for noises.Adjust Cheers

OK, I'll bite.Why? Is it valve body related? blah blah ...?

It runs! Primed her, ran her at 1800 ish for about 20 minutes. She purs , aside from the clack 'o'valve.Will adjust when suitable. I WILL run it hard.I promise. I am excited to drive it, but there are a couple small mechanical issues to be worked out. Right after priming.Going for it.The pit in my stomach was horrible. Then finally: cheers

Thats HAWT!!!!..You get'em! cheers

About the exact time you posted I had just figured that out by going to parts stores.3 to be exact. I happened to come to the conclusion from memories, remembering the years that were based on transition.I figured to ask for '90 :Legacy.Figuring that '89 and '91 were at the fore and aft of the engineered thought process. The lengths of axles are based upon compressed length.The first gen axles are between 26.45 or something , up to 27. The Impreza axles are 30.somethin. There was a no difference in fitted length. I was stoked . Last night I was kinda worried I ************ed myself. First, we primed her proper.Then... Then we realized that the crank angle sensor had a broken wire.So after soldering that *************** we got down with some start action.Then did the recomended break in time for the cams.It was a nervous time, but It seems like the only thing to worry about is the valve adjustment and random Passenger side front hub/axle weirdness. Don't know if it is relatedd, but The trans has a discrepency as well.It says that the torque converter clutch solenoid circuit P0743.Lookin at that as we speak.... Anyway, The engine is running!!! Some valve adjustment and some minor other mechanical issues seem to be the only stumps to jump.Tomorrow is another day,plug away . cheers ClICK PIC FOR VIDEO!!!!

Got the rest of the Lift in today.Ended up using the metal lift pieces in the rear too. IT worked out. I also got the trans mount done too.So the transmission is installed. Built the 4.44 LSdiff.Have to get different axles.It seems that I have a different spliined diff currently.So, new axles I guess. We will be firing up the motor tomorrow.Woot!!

Tomorrow is the day!!:headbang:I appreciate the advice.We should stickie this! I know it is basic information, but rather helpful. I am glad to know that we might know what we are doing.:-p I'll take video of it running cheers

Why wouldn't you?Full battery, and good starter inclusive? Anyways, good info.We are on track then. cheers

I don't buy small speed parts:-p Actually, I think that having that light on gives me some sort of solice. LOL

I cut my ABS lines to the sensors on the rear, I have an awesome ABS light on all the time now.I am to lazy to take the dash out again. I was going to take the entire system out, but, after looking at how the brake lines are run i decided not to tackle it ....LOL I would not have been able to keep/mount the sensors anyway, as I have rear discs from an older Lego.If I would have known that just stuffing them up in a cable tie would keep the light off, I would have done that.I also have most of the ABS plugs out of the unit under the hood. The fuse is the non perm way to go. I also disabled my airbags by unplugging the brain. If you are doing some real offroading, you do not want one of those things goin off.... cheers

Some front lift blocks Some rear droppage for block install,this one was interesting.I lowered the crossmember with 2", and just used the Outback 1" block for the front of the diff.Keeping it up a skosch in the front.. I ran into a hitch with the rear strut tops.The Forester tops are rubberized , and do not allow you to pound out the studs to add longer studs for block install. I may try to find or fab some internal nuts out of small tubing. Or I may just go get some strut tops fromt the dealer.It would be easier, and I could get group N's:-p.. We will see. All of the rear lift is in, except the strut tops.So tomorrow will be transfering wiring on the transmissions, and getting that thing in the car for the new transmission mount to be fabbed. The thing about only putting 2 inches of lift in this car is that the trans wil still be "in the tunnel",the mount actually goes up from the body to mount the trans. So, if you make the mount flat across, it is still tucked up a bit, but dropped the 2 inches I need it to be. IE: I am super close.The New, New engine is basically put together now.So that will start going in as soon as the trans is mounted. Woot! cheers

Yep, Undo sway bars, stand on that knuckle with your body weight whilst someone guides the bolts into the holes.If that doesna work, then loosen crossmember.It WILL move a skosch.But Will release and move better if you undo the steering linkage. It kinda blows me away that this is not all common sense to you .You have had a billion of these cars apart.:-pThere are no real tricks, just get'er done! cheers ****EDIT:Outback struts have a higher spring perch.*****

6 inches, 235's and no sway bars makes an ea81 wagon pretty squirrely.But I still drove 70 down the highway.The Toyota trucks I have driven were a very long time ago,but the solid axle ones had at least 33's on them with body lifts, and I can say that even then it did not matter much.Stable as can be . It is a moot point to vantage your own opinion of handling to anothers.Driving styles are way to different. cheers

Lets get something straight here.I do not doubt Delta's ability to be right.They DO know their ************.I do not doubt much about this entire situation. I simply cannot have it go wrong,So I am a skosch hesitant.thats all. Thanks for everyones input.I will update when she is running. cheers

So , lets recount for a second. 08 Forester struts, redrilled rear top for Forester pattern. I started out with the front on the phase one Outback stock lift blocks and ALK's... The rear has aftermarket adjustable Lateral links... Rear discs stockish EJ22recently reseale/gasketed with questionable heads.Shows signs of failure/unsure...., with Auto 4.11 Also a failing radiator... Whats happening now:frankenmotor, 4.44 auto with 4.44 rear clutch type LSdiff(8x,xxx mile diff! I was told), 2" lift, Brand new mudders previously viewed, etc.. Pile of parts Left =old trans Have to transfer over the electronics to the new trans, already did the filter kit on it Full droop after front 2" lift install Ill get other pics, but I used the metal strut lift up front.I intend to use the UHMW for the rear struts.As the front metals ones came out better than the front UHMW, and vice versa. Some head action from earlier today: STill have a bit to do to get her back on her feet again, but Mugs and I will be pluggin away over the next several days to get this done so I can use her for a Daily:-p.

There is plenty of assembly lube , like , lots of it. I was there when it was assembled,I was working on something else... It just makes me nervous.... cheers