monstaru

welp, Just got done puttin a freshly regasketed engine in.Dirty intake and all.Runs pretty good really.The regular bumps and humps one gets sometimes.After she cycles through her process she will be fine. Also trimmed the other front fender . Will get to the other rear fender tomorrow.Also workin on a couple other things. I wanna figure out "the mystery sound".... But other than that The regular stuff I also did some of the normal frond end trimming.. While the engine was out I rerouted the front end wiring harness so it is no longer hanging down like you see there. moar pics tomorrow. cheers

It came with 3.0, 3.4, and one JDM that I can find that was 2jz...but that is according to the Wiki.don't know how much faith I'd have in that. Here is a chart for more k-nowdledge: Type Year Found Behind Gears Low Gear Length T-Case Shifting Notes L43 1979-1980 20R 4 3.67 20 3/4" Top L45 1981-1982 22R 4 3.93 ??? Top Integral bell housing. L50 1981-1982 22R 5 3.93 ??? Top Integral bell housing, input bearing prone to failure. L52 1983 22R 5 3.93 ??? Top Integral bell housing. G52 1984-1987 22R 5 3.93 25 1/4" Forward Front seal retainer uses 8 bolts. G54 1984-1987 22R 5 3.93 25 1/4" Forward A340F 1984-1999 22RE, 22RTE 4 2.80 ??? ??? Found on vehicles with manual hubs and V6 models after '96. A340H 1988-1995 3VZE 4 2.80 ??? Mechanical Linkage on Side Found on vehicles with ADD, transfer case integral to transmission. W56 1985-1995 22RE 5 3.93 25 1/4" Top (85-88) Forward (89-95) Front seal retainer uses 7 bolts. R151F 1986-1987 22RTE (pickups only) 5 4.31 25 1/4" Top (w/ Bucket Seats) Forward (w/ Bench Seats) Can be identified by round rubber plug on the bottom of the bellhousing. G58 1989-1995 22RE 5 3.93 ??? Top Found of vehicles with ADD. R150F 1988-1995 3VZE 5 3.83 ??? Top cheers, B well, that didna work out well.....anyways.

I dunno who you been talkin to, BUT they must know me:-p well, the story goes, that you can take an AW4 transmission, USE an A340f or h Auto bellhousing, and You have a jeep auto trans, which allows for the use of diferent transfer cases.Such as, a Dana 300, or an Atlas. My mind is still trying to get around the fact that the Manuals cannot be TO much different than the Auto trans at the trans side for mounting. cheers, B

I should be finished trimming up the fendeers this weekend.She will probably see a new motor as well, maybe some new tires by the end of itall........ Spit, one of the key factors I think is the Outback lift that i have up front.But I still rub at the back of the front wheelwell.Figuring a verry large sledge will find it's way in there eventually. I still have a ton to do that I even have parts for already.Lights, CB, Sticks,one of my Diff covers, etc, cheers

So Bill, have you looked at any toyota Auto transmissions?I was curoius if this might bolt to one, or if it is close enough to try it. cheers

Isn't that the bestest feeling EVAR!!!!Looks good man.I weent wheeling in our 93 Runner and wished it had more juice.It was a 3.slo though.It seems that I just acquired a whole heep of HP for the Huggy .I am pretty excited that i will be able to have some wheel spin with power behind it.:drunk:cheers

sweet, I hate you guys:-p

Wow, you thought for yourself.You want a sticker?

Oh she is cut up like a cooked hog at a birthday party.... The struts are from an 07 Forrester.The weight difference is pretty significant from that model year to ours.It may be only a couple of hundred pounds, but it is enough to give me a stiffer ride even without a swaybar. I have one inch spacers also, If I did not these 235's would be to close for comfort.She is comin along.I am loving her with the squeeking gone. cheers

down vote http://www.physicsforums.com/archive/index.php/t-37701.html says "Most of the strength of a cylinder comes from the outer portions. I think the contribution goes like the cube of the radial position. So, if you took a solid rod and drilled out a half the volume from the center, you do not lose half the strength. Strength to weight ratio is better for a hollow pipe than a solid rod." The definition for the second moment of inertia I c for a filled and hollow cylinder can be found on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area: I c =∫∫ A y 2 dxdy=∫ R 0 ∫ 2π 0 r 2 dϕrdr=πr 4 4 The surface area of the filled cylinder is: A=πr 2 Compare filled and hollow cylinder of equal mass: s c =I c A =r 2 4 , cylinder with fractional internal radius r i =xr o and x<1 : s h =I h A =r 4 (1−x 4 ) 4r 2 (1−x 2 ) =r 2 (1−x 2 )(1+x 2 ) 4(1−x 2 ) =r 2 (1+x 2 ) 4 >s c . This means a hollow cylinder is stronger than a rod of equal mass and the same material. A hollow cylinder with a bigger inside diameter is better. In the limit x→1 the hollow cylinder is twice as strong. Note that this limit isn't physically viable as it would be an cylinder with infinite radius and infinitesimally thin wall. However it is useful to define the upper limit of the second moment of inertia. I didn't expect the increase in strength only a factor of two.

All mounted up.Test fitted.I am happy.The Forester struts in conjunction with the 1" spacers is gonna be a no interference relationship for strut spring mount, and tire.AWES OME......... That means less work in the end.Well, kinda. This is the largest tire I will ever put on this car.So, with that in mind, I can concentrate on trimming and tidying up the fenders. And then commit to certain things that I am trying to put off for a bit.......like bumpers. cheers

I did, I thought I sent you a thank you PM....sorry...:-pYES, and AWESOME....I am almost ready for that project;). But before that I need to make her reliable in a biblical sense.. Which I am currently fairly on top of it. Like i said , I bought the first set of new tires I have ever put on a subaru I think.....Maybe one set before.But I usually buy used Lt truck tires and ruun them out.....:DMy wife gets new tires when she needs them;) I will be adding a skosch of lift to add the tires, and I will finish clearanceing the fenders.... Then I will get a couple of weeks off from school, and I will see how I feel about doing something FUn on her... Finally... cheers..

Ok, so I have an engine getting resealed.I replaced the rear links with some ebay specials .NO mor esqueeky squeeky I will be mounting a set of new 235's this week.May have to actually pu tthe blocks in I been workin on. I am looking forward to adding a little weight to her to settle out the struts some more.They are a little stiff for the weight of the car I think. Pics soon....;)cheers<me

I think Mikie was talkin about theses..... Nexen Roadian M/T's. I just picked a set of these up......yet to mount them. cheers.

Quitter!....

Noah, easy dude, I can think of three spots it would be tight for a longbed yota..... But my opinion may not mean as much to you.you, you.... damnit, no time to come over for this one.. HAve fun fellas...cheers,me

You can't really mount the drivetrain backwards as there ar eno provisions of reverse cut gears. The usual suspects for rear mount are VW ttransaxles.There are adapter plates sold.But in that case yiou would need a syncro setup to get 4wd. I found that utilizing some different diffs might obviously be an option, but did not look into reverse cuts for other "solitary" diffs. If you mount the engine a little further back in the frame that way a rear diff can be mounted up front it might work out,but in that case you would need a divorced t-case, like nissan , or zooki.The nissan case profile is really tall.But the zook case can be rotated and flattened out. Umm, lets see, thats about it for now.cheers

I actually had to "reshape" them from being bashed quite a bit.I shoved a 5/8 nut down into them to add rigidity, then welded the top and bottom on....cheers

I am in serious need.:-p:clap: I would love to talk about this more seriously.As I could finish this axle set,then sell them,the locker, and H1 centers. PM comin your way........cheers:brow:

Got some more done today. Finally was able to get the bottom gussets to look and fit how I wanted. Only took 5 tries...... Got my free char lynn steering valve to the shop to get checked out.So we'll see whaty goes dowwn there. should be able to cut out the centers to my beadlocks soon.then i can mount the tires. cheers

On top of the fact that I have a tubing bender....Looks good.cheers

************IN RAD........I wanna ride.....:brow:Then drive....:clap:Awesome.I wish i was over there for the fall.I won't be back till Jan 1.... cheers,B

there are some cool options for making that center bar in the engine bay removable.Polyperformance has some cool brackets ...... looks good, What rate of springs?looks good man.cheers

Engine , trans, front hatch clip, possibly more body(just won't know what till I get the chassis finished.cheers

NoNo, I moved up to Toyota axles.And honestly if I find a Dana60 front in the mean time of finishing the Toy axle I will swap to those as I already have a Dana 60 rear. And the majority of those pics and this thread has been the progression all the way through my process of "upgrade".The more I built the more I wanted to build.LOLThen I realized that if I was gonna build a rig I still wanted to have it look like a subie.So the hatchback is now in pieces.Like little pieces and a front clip.which will go back onthe chassis.Then the fat meats.shooting for like 22-25 inch belly.Trying to keep the width around 68ish, but well see. The chassis is even further than in the pics.I have to get stuff moved around to get it back out of storage to take more pics. I have some other goodies too... 10?gallon fuel cell,and char lynn steering valve with single ended ram. Its coming along.I have some good time during school this quarter and can be using tools in the school metal shop.Cool.I'm working on a few things.So, It should work out well.It is slow going since I started school, but I am coming around to time .cheers