monstaru

a little late to the party.......but it is way easier to do this to a jeep.... i am also in love with those 4 doors......i want one built pretty bad....cheers, b

so ,technically, this will adapt early "G" series 4wd trannies as well?they are the same 9 bolt design as the "W"s yeah?sorry, i am cross reading everywhere for this.....cheers, b

************in hate every single person that was there........:-p

technically, they say you cannot rebiuld the outers on the front.i never messed with'em.....but seems to me that it would be the same setup as a inner.balls and grooves.with some sort of clip. the guys with birfs rebuild there outers......i wonder if they say you cannot rebuild subies outers because of the inner c clip.....hrrmmm.... what part is broken?cheers, b

which front axle are you starting with?

kanooks ain't got nothin on my "coldest day of the year in negative digits pullin trannies in the junkyard days"......:lol:cheeers, b

foshnizzle...........

pretty sure that was a brat from up here. had mixes up chrysler/toy axles. full exo, well, maybe...its from the RRR pretty sure. rainer ridge rams that is.......cheers, b

have you ever had a BRAND NEW diff setup?thats what i thought......that is the only way to have a control in the matter....... SPEAKING TO EVERYONE ....regardless of added stress, you cannot pigeon hole the issue stating that simply because of a weldedd diff that you will break stubs, or destroy axle cups.cups were made out of several diffferent types of cast,same with stubs but from machined steels.different grades react differently.especially after years of different climates,abuse ettc... if you just want to argue then fine,but stop trying to state that if anyone here puts in a welded diff that it will cause failure.it SIMPLY is not true.

there are plenty of guys up north that run without breaking them.it is just a part of life when wheeling .stress is stress, i am SURE it iwas not just because he had a welded diff.it was not case study, so there is no way you can state that,there are to many variables.old and different types of metal, different tempers due to different climatizations, etc..........over the life of all of the different parts,from different cars no doubt, from different parts of the country no doubt . you are trying to put a defenite answer on something that has WAY TO MANY VARIABLES.how one drove is another, etc....there is no answer to it no matter how bad you want there to be...........so whatever.

every time i broke those axles on that car it was from extension, not compression.we are talking about a specific build.not you.cheers, b

this is where i am at.what do i use to coat it after wards?my time is valuable these days and i need to do this to my ol'ladies rig again.cheers

as a matter of fact the chunk in your car is the one i am talkin about...... you still have not put limiting straps on that car?!wtf over.......that s what i told you i was gonna do for it.you know cause i said that those shocks were what i had laying around.hrrmm, pretty sure thats what i said:rolleyes:...anyways cheers, b

i wasna talkin about you bein a pansy mick..........i kinda know your history...... the speed thing is a valid question.but the welded diff i had in my brat did fine between here and idaho the last year i ran that brat.i was driving there about (approx 25 miles one way)three times a week for a while there.....at least that whole summer. when i removed that chunk i found a little bit of adverse wear on the ring gear, but not much.it could have been from the setup that i did not do:grin: properly........ cheers, b

i never heard so many pansies in all of my life:rolleyes:.lock it and run it.if you do not like it, take it out..............

do it, whatcha got to lose? i mean besides some tread?cheers, b

looks like the one for sale a while back.he had a saturn engine in it. id rock the hell out of that.looks like a soob to me.........:grin:cheers, b

seriously, have you searched at all?cause i can tell you that you are barking up the wrong tree.go back to go, do not collect 200 dollars......

looks like the rear pass. axle....... to me anyway.could work easily if rigged properrly.but i would not want to deal with breaking axles continuously. would def try it in an emergency.

"Go over to legacy central and talk to red devil about his NA push style clutch in his twin charged legacy wagon. " that dude is nuts!for sure.....:eek:cheers

i hate ford, but right on.:grin:PICS?cheers

well, you can see here that a stock toy frame could possibly be put to good use under a car. then you could use any kit you wanted to 4 link it.of course that is under a brat, but you can see size comparison kinda. just sayin.maybe just pull some frame horns off, and mpount up a ea82 body.... cheers, b

suzuki axles fit the width, so do TOy axles.Dana 35's and 30"s almost fit the profile , but those were some old old axles i have too... umm, i personally am stepping away from the zook axles because i know how i am.i will break them then be pissed i didna go bigger.it really depends on how much tire you think you will shoehorn in there. 33's are at the topend of zook stuff, 35's if you drive nicely and have chromo's. toy stuff with chromos can go past 37's.but that requires upgrades to steering, brakes, and GOOd chromo's...... you also have to consider steering.needing a steering box, etc...... the transfer case issue is another monster. zook-divorced-can get rather cheap upgrade gears to 6.8/1 toyota-can get a divorcedd kit for it(well, you used to be able to , not sure now), good options for gearing np205 you can find divorced, but then you run into coupling issues(ujoints) special drivelines , etc... then there is the whole non divorced issue.people making adapter plates and using whatever they want.this is a new wave of happiness for us around here.we have been so limited in options that any new option is awesome. i say go with what you know........or have done ************tons of research on. etc.there is a ton of info that goes into this.if you are thinking about doing it you might do some outside research.but remember, you talk to a ford guy, he'll tell ya to use this, and talkin to a chevy guy will tell you to use that, etc... what do you have access to? etc... toyota's are super strong when setup proper, huge aftermarket for gearrs , etc, and they can be relatively easy to find although not very cheap anymore.none of them are a cheap option, as it is not a cheap project. the rear axles can come from just about anything as long as you can make a driveline to couple them ...... i have tried doing this project 2 or 3 times now.each time gathering more and more info.and getting more and more material to go forward.with little space and limited time it has hindered me.it takes a lot of space to do and stay on track. regardless , attaching mounting points to the unibody is not acceptable. they WILL rip out.you need a subframe, for suspension mounts, and the transfercase. and, your not gonna find a "kit" for the link setup.geometry will be way different than anything out there.so, if you think yo can just go buy a kit and make it work i can tell you that it will make MORE work than you think it will to make it work:grin:that was a mouthful...... anyways.cheers, b

that is pretty much what made me stop doing it....breakability.a guy would have to go super super light to be able to use the subie stuff successfully good job again mister!can't wait to see.cheers,b

Mugs and i built that car.then he sold it to a guy in oregon:grin:cheers