monstaru

I made the adjustment bracket out of the mercedes bracket , and my own mount added onto the stock(slightly modified) A/C bracket. THINK I have the tensioner finally figured out for the power steering pump. will finish the slot on that bracket tomorrow. oh yeah, It has belts on it. cheers

No idea on the pressure of an existing unit. The unit I am using , that you see above is , an aftermarket Toyota unit sold by trail gear. This happens to be the 1650PSI unit. I will eventually put the hydro-assist ram on. I have it, I am just trying to get this thing useable before I install it. Get some kinks worked out, ya know. I bought the entire kit, used. Well, except the ram. SO I couldn't tell ya what just the pump would cost right of hand. This bracket I found off an Mercedes v8 at the yard. It has a star wheel bolt for adjustment at the bottom rear of this orientation. Should work out pretty cool. Are those wires? Also , I mounted a starter, started the redo of the electrical box due to size constraints, and have the tensioner options laying on the bench for a brainstorming session. I might be in need of a 2 prong Alternator plug if anyone has one. I can't seem to find the one I already cut for this. On to the battery and radiator mounts here real soon. the list is getting smaller!! cheers

The point is, you need more experience to tell you where your weak spots are. People break axles in different spots all the time. Not everyone is going to break/bend the control arm in the same spot. Beefing up to much moves your fuse from one spot to the next. Period.

If you have to ask, your probably not ready. lol You really need to be some hardcore spoob to add that to the mix. If you are not ready for another fuse. then i would suggest wheeling it until you need that. k

I started looking at a mechanical steering option again lately , as you have seen previous.It took about three times before I was satisfied.But it seems to have worked out well. It almost seems like the tie -rod is the wrong size.DDOn't get me wrong, I have never dealt with this type of steering until now. And may have verry well fawked up. But the more I look at it, the more the tie rod pains me.lol I also started fingering out the TC style steering pump for the Subaru motor. I was able to modify the aftermarket mount for the the Trail-gear offered 1450 and -1650 psi pumps. I had to inboard the moutning holes by about 5/8ths. I have no awesome pictures because it looks like spoob.lol But I do have basic pics of it being mocked up. I also modified the stock A/C bracket by cutting it a bit. so that I mount the Alt. from the top as opposed having to slide it in from the side kinda. Know what I mean? Flipped it over, and can run it from the other side.NICE! cheers Last edited by monstaru; Yesterday at 11:50 AM.

You have to be aman about it, get some leverage behind them. AFTER you have soaked them with PB Blaster or Yield for a coupld of days each.(rotate motor on stand to top, spray and let sit overnight on each side)

THat is an easy one to do. But it is most likely the plate next to it.Take that off , clean and RTV that sucker back on! cheers

Yep, gonna be fine. Just don't torque down to much.You can crush the "frame". cheers

I will be out of town on a biz trip the week before.Probably not heading up .Hit me up ! If you can stop bye the house , do. cheers, me

This should really be posted in another sub-forum here , and or search more on the subject outside of here. Not GENUINELY off-road related. No matter what you think. LOL I would bet that the newer gen forums have your questions answered. cheers

I used plastic barbed fittings slightly trimmed down to fit in all of my offroad diffs. They just pressed in. I did this on the car. That way I would not have to disassemble to drill. Works fine . As long as the fittings are tight. lol cheers

Hopefully he reinforces the stock upper strut mounts. With resistance it is highly likely to blow that mount out at the seams.

Where haVE you been? lol Even better than that are some importers picking them up regularly now. For like years. lol

no.

We actually almost died that day. thank goodness he can drive or there would have been a recovery.

The only left handed thread situation is gonna be on tie rod ends, and you do not use a torque wrench to tighten them. Do you do this professionally? Are you working on spacecraft? Ships? What? You have never stated what your mainstay of use will be. I recommend checking out reputable pawn shops in your area. There are several that have good tool buyers, Others not so much. I have a snap-on unit that was payment for some work I did. My buddy had purchased it at the pawn shop . Works awesome every time. Critical torque specs usually come with head bolts. Everything else is just kind of process whoring if you do not do it professionally. Meaning that you can just feel how tight things need to be more often than not. A lot of the basics come from leverage. Don't use a lot of it . I like to do timing belts with a 1/4 inch drive. Just saying. cheers

Ill sign your bewbs! lol

Most defenitely Jeszek. I have thought very long about using that transmission in front of an Atlas t-case. But once again we reside in the "money" thread. That is the project I would work on if I had the money. The R& D for the trans-t-case adapter is into the 4 figure thousands. Then the T-case is about 5 g's. That does not even count building the transmission which his another few K. I have thought about it more than I care to. LOL

I know :)The specific difference between all of the others and the Nissan version is that the nissan version can be adapted to an Atlas T-case. I think maybe you missed the point Jeszek :)lol When I was looking into this they had an adapter the older automatic. I just looked and could not find anything below like 2000. Maybe i'm just loaded, and could not see it. lol Cheers

It's not always about having to use it. It's almost always about having it available to use. Just sayin. Now that i think about it. I looked into Jatco's Nissan Pathfinder transmissions. They are an auto. They are BASIcally the same transmission with a different bellhousing. I found that the rear most section of the Subaru version would unbolt and allow for fitment of an intermediate shaft, but just needed to have a mounting surface. This was years ago. If I had hte backing I would figure out how to mount an Atlas t-case to a subaru. Maintain IFS/IRS. But dana 60 style.Spydertrax makes a diff housing/stub combo that would fuckkin rock to do this with. I do still have SOME pure thought,albeit convoluded.Pure enough cheers

Nice. I don't know how i missed this thread either. Awesome. We are gonna have to get our own class at the show cheers

I got more did. Here is the pass. side shot drivers side shot The very middle sleeve was just baseline spacer . cheers

I had 07-08 Forester struts. Just to be precise. And yes, I did trim those fenders that way. Also, Pretty sure I used Forester rims to get the slightly differnt offset

To answer this question. I am doing it right now. Probably at the point and time of my earlier posts too. Subaru engines are awesome.Great power to weight ratio. I have no liiving idea as to what I have spppent on the Subota...... lol (completely kidding of course, Im pretty deep.And thats not counting the man hours. I would say that I am gonna be well under 20 g's,but its defenitely gonna be 5 digits. What'll it be worth after I am "done"? Only what someone will pay for it! And Adam,Pics or that post was useless (pirateflipoff)

I'm in. Stock Impreza, street tires, and lots of beers.Oh yeah. FWD. This is gonna be fun!