monstaru

FAQ in the offroad section would probably be good bet for you.........

i have a complete one sans whatever clear coating there is supposed to be on the color, well, it is partially there just not clear anymore. it appears that the color underneath is steadfast though, as i have chipped a couple of pieces up and it has remained. i thought i had two, if i do .they are yours if you can use'em......trade ya for a stock ej22t uppipe if 'n ya had one. cheers, brian

well, there is not tension between the two main plates,meaning it did not "{spring}" apart...... umm, it is a vlsd. and i've no idea about how it actually works, i have only read what it is theorized to do. and by examining it , it cannot be that different than a clutch type.i am pretty sure that the clamp down force is not equal though..... and when i was searching out the 4.44's i came across 5 or 6 cars that had a vlsd in them.and every single one spun opposite, i cannot imagine that they were all bad......there has to be a couple of versions of thes4e things about....... cheers, brain

you ************in loser......you just got demoted.........NO cheers, brian

the 4 inch steering extension is easily modified by cutting the steering linkage in half, and adding 4 inches of extension material, be it tubing,or rod. it will be tight, and will look like it won't work.but it will, and you may have to "clearance" the u-joints a little. cheers, brian

damn brau,you old man.....

you only really want like 5 or 6 inches of uptravel anyway.so , i bet if the shocks , at a bottomed out position, also triangulated would accomplish being able to keep those tires up in there, but the pumpkin off of the gas tank you will probably have a hell of a rake...... cheers, brian

don't worry their are ************s around here too. i may need to acquire an ej up pipe from you if you have an old stock one......ya know, all bull************ aside. cheers, brian

it is really easy to rebuild the calipers.and clean them up nice to work very good for you. you can get the rebuild kits from any major parts store.cheers, brian i have confidence in the fact that you can make them like new, i have done so many times.all you have to do is pay attention to how you take them apart,i bet even a haynes manual would show you.

you need to seearch! this topic has been covered a bajillion times here.there is more info here than you can imagine.NOW GO READ SOME! cheers, brain

well, at that point it would be the torque from the engine ...so just switch them around. it is a motorcycle engine,mated to a subie trans.all of the torque will be with the motor. yep, i say solid mount the engine, soft mount the trans. who knows.might work.cheers, brian

why not solid mount the tranny, and rubber mount the motor? i know it sounds odd, but the little vibration from the motor would be taken up from front rubber mounts, and the tranny-engine union would benefit from the solid trans mounts....... make sense?cheers, brain

VLSD, cheers, brian

that is a clutch type , like we are used to seeing.cheers, rbian

the one on the left is a VLSD. the one on the right , open. viscous is fluid based,our normal "lsd's" are clutch based.they both utilize the same idear.make plates lock together . springs vs. fluid ....... i thought to high hell that the one on the left was open.but , twas not.acts like open, until there is enough pressure to activate it. i took one apart at one point. here are some pics........cheers, brian

i never did anything to my brake lines for a four inch kit, =except "free" them from their keepers(the little metal tabs on the struts,and rear control arms. in other words, take them out of anything that is keeping them tied down. never had any issues until i went to 6". cheers, brian

well, no ************....but bigger tires nets more ground clearance.no matter what.cheers, brian

here is the link to the running car .....pretty sweet.........good job mugsy.....cheers, brian

2. You lose all the added ground clearance underneath by "lowering" the subframes. (pssst...........which is why you get bigger tires):lol:cheers, brian

ya know, bigo thought i was flamin him when i said that he was regressing a while back.i spoke to soon.i feel he is moving in a good direction here.i think the light weight , very low gear combination can be deadly in the sticks and rocks...which = fun......... i think that some of us just want something to do,and we like our cockpit.i mean what good pilot hates his cockpit? in closing, i would like to say that, i suffer from the same affliction, and things can be done well enough to not warrant immediate attention from the wrench. if you wish to take shortcuts, then yes, by all means you do end up polishing the handles on your wrenches ....... but to each his own.......cheers, brian

the 510 axles are not stronger.... i am STILL waiting to hear from my friend at the machine shop.but when i do , that was the direction i was going. u joints. with slip sections, like drivelines. cheers, brian

after you get past breaking axle cups, you will break diff stubs .then you will spin axles themselves.if yo uhave the axle shafts cryo'ed, you will move onto something else. it has been said before,"what would you rather break?"something you can carry a couple of, or something you have to fix when you get home? before evans creek, i had only blown cages in axle cups,bent a control arm, and broken shocks. that was all on jobsites.oh yeah, i had broken an exhaust stud by landing on an exhaust runner(i had a skidplate the next day:lol:) your next upgrade should be to another diff, but then you will break drivelines, and u joints.specifically speaking,the r200. don't get me wrong, i come from a mud background.fast and dirty ya'know,but am learning the way of "less go more slow"......well, at least i am trying. cheers, brian

1500 full of fuel, and stuffs for the trail is about as aw4eswome as you will get...... cheers, brian

the ride height ,and stiffness are adjusted.i mean any time you add pressure to something, it will adjust the stiffness...... "clocking" the tube is another animal.you have to take apart the end caps for the torsion bar to clock it. you will lose some "stuff"(how well your tire goes towards the body)if you clock it. most folks i know, adjust the bolt all the way up when they lift it. you do not "have " to adjust it , or clock it together.actually , when you clock it, you usually leave the adjustment down. if it does not show a significant difference, it may be toast enough to want to add some coil overs. cheers, brian

whats up dizaw3g..............not smiths specialties anymore?cheers, brian:)