monstaru

take and soak the inside of the stubs with your favorite fluid, whether it be PB blaster, or yield.set it up on its side, soak for an hour, flip over, repeat.might help out.wehave cut a lot of stubs off because of the bolt head breaking off as well. so , get a cutting disc for your grinder.when the bolt snaps, just cut as close to the case as you can, pull the rest of the stub out,then take the vise grips to the rest of the bolt. the bolt is never rusted to the carrier.it is always rusted to the stub itself.so , i mean , just look at it.assess the sitiation,and go for it. cheers, rbain

there should be two nostrils coming out of the front of your car.they are located on the hood, the very front lip.these are attached there, and breath steam whenever it is appropriate.cheers, rbain

right, that was with the backwall.so definitely different. i was thinking that was what you were talking about.......DOH....but anyways, measure twice, cut once.........if you had an extra roof section i am sure it would help.measure out both pieces of roof pre-cut,and make marks at about 1" intervals. that way you can match up the layout as much as possible.over cut the donor piece.undercut the existing piece. find the middle ground and go to town.there has to be a spot where the gutters will match up.. th eonly time i fantasized about this i think i am remembering that the t-tops would end up farther back on the top than they would be situated on a brat.it would have had to been a very difficult cut on the front to match up to a wagon.... anyways,get a good tape, a good marker,and measure off of die hard reference points. cheers, brian

jerry has had it done a couple of times .not that big of deal.depends on how much you want to spend.cheers, brian

hrmmmm, the difference between subaruland, and non-subaruland...............:grin:cheers, brian

actually , the old school right up, states how to clearance the casing so that you can get the chunk in , already assembled.it makes it alot easier.... it is a simple job.about three cans of brake clean later of course.you want to make sure you clean the back end of the case out( you know, where the pinion bearings are)so that all of the shavings and such go away....this will help your bearings in the long run. cheers, brian

ever put one on an outback?i mean , same geometry right......so technically should be static.but just curious......cheers, brain

OH MY GAWD JEFF!DUDE, WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO ABOUT THE ANTENNA HOLE?thats a dealbreaker dude.************ it, scrap it,i hear metal is up....might be able to buy a legacy, and just lift it......cause you can....by yourself.44 damn, did that just happen?:lol:cheers, brian

actually this is where you introduce yourself. so , hi , hows it goin.you got a 83 brat huh?awesome , i used to have an 83, and an 86.i had an 82 once to. but it was rotted out already. but enough about me. the place to look up problems, or post about one is in another section here on tha board. it is called "old generation of subarus".i bet if you posted over there with this stuff. you would get a good response. and it keeps things from getting cluttered up.thanks, and have a good time learning about your brat! cheers, brian

very very niceah.....cheers, rbriamn\\\\ 44

any news?like, did he get ahold of you shean? to tighten things up? as i see it TEX ME SHAWN W TOMSBRATS possibly you SHEAN...... guess it depends if this guy wants to answer questions.or are we just doin it?like, some solid info would be sweet.cheers,brian

you need to search the offroad forum........... it relatively easy.with a 2" lift on those wagons there a re very little issues.have wheeled with several that have had no issues that the ea81 possess's.......look, search,m read.offroad.cheers,brian

yep, the option here is zuki..........something you can flatbelly.....as much as possible.and remember with the rear that you will have to have a splined driveline to extend with the axle.cheers,brian

exactly what i was getting at.we nee dto match up the piston depressions when we do these builds or we will always get interference somehow.cheers, brian

nice, looks like everything worked fine,i mean what is sheet metal for anyway?:lol:bfh should fix that.if not the sawzall:grin: will........looked like a good time,to bad about the jeep.is that bluejeeps rig pullin him out?cheers, brian

dude the front of the diff should stay exactly like it is.put it back together. the rear of the diff with the two horizontal BOLTS, that are mounted to the mustache bar,are the ones we are talking about. when you get this , you will go DOH!you are thinking about it to much......cheers, brian

will you just shut the ************ up...........if people want to do it, let it be.what the ************ are you?a saviour?piss off.we can save our selves.......cheers, or not.brian

an answer would be nice.....because i am not one of the ************s that is breaking up these threads just to do it...... i actually am willing to buy one of these. cheers, brian

flat.completely flat.i do not think i am wrong on this either, as i have had from 90-97 in my driveway that i have pulled the motors on.all of the MT's had a flat flywheel.no issues.cheers, brian

damn ,thats a funny banana...........cheers, brian

yep , that thing is a total piece of ************.beat it, beat it good.:lol:cheers, brian

i knew it was one way or the other!:lol:but, like mykey said, it does not work to mix and match.at all.cheers,brian

well, the history of the 3spd is horrible.and with that amount of torque going through it, i would not use it.you used to be able to get rebuild kits for them.but they are getting almost impossible to find. i would source a 5spd d/r if i were you.there are plenty of writeups as to what you will need. just search and read.it helps alot. cheers, brian

1. strut blocks 2. engine crossmember 3. trans crossmember 4. rear torsion bar suspension 5. diff drop plate cheers,brian