monstaru

i think it is an awesome idea.rock on.cheers, rbain

huh, i didna know you posted the same subject twice.......only post once, it helps us help you more efficiently.cheers, brian

you should have a couple of things that are obviously for the front struts,and the rear shocks. two long(front to back) blocks for under the engine crossmember 6 blocks the same for the trans crossmember 4 blocks the same for the rear suspension torsion bar possibly 2 blocks that look like the front crossmember blocks, but with offset holes, or a plate that drops the rear diff hanger... if you post a picture i am sure i could number them for you. cheers, rbian

i am remembering a difference in the non-vented vs. vented rotors.i am thinking the non-vented are a tad thicker,which in turn means there will be play if you put a vented rotor in. i this happen to me on one of the brats.cheers, brian

several people have used one or the other.as long as everything matches.together.(clutch,pressure plate) most say that the xt6 flywheel is lighter and designed for a street application, and the ea82 flywheel is heavier, better for an offroad or torque application. cheers, rbian

this is exactly why i would use phase one stuffs for the entire build.to maintain a non interference motor.......or is that possible?am i thinking about that right?(scratches chin)..........cheerrs, brian

are you going to love and cherish this brat? because iafter losing several brats to my indecision and anxiety, i long for one....and if you are not worthy..you wil be deemed as such.and the gods will not grant you what you desire.:grin:cheers, brain

huh, what does that mean?:grin:cheers, nairb

right, but the duties are owed at the port they are received. AND,if the classification is wrong, they are changed on the spot,and the items in question are held until they are payed. i guess i would like to know what HST category the transmissions will be shipped under,and if it is correct for the items in question.thats all. cheers, brian

what will the customs fee's be when they hit the states?does anyone know this?how do we find out?etc......cheers, brian

i have been dreaming of this for a while now as well....but i think that i will let it go for a while.... i will be selling my upright intake,and carb stuffs in favor of the injection for a while i think.i need to simplify my projects more for the time being...but ..... it is possible to get good numbers out of a carb setup if you do the math from the beginning.i have talked at length with an engine rebuilder about what setup i9 would need to run to get the best out of it......cheers, brian

heres some numbers for ya..... "The cost of flowing-seat work & "skimming" the heads was $350 (my shop cost)--flow improvement was in the order of 18/20% (intake seats were in the airflow). Intake re-work was $250 (one of the best alum welders in the area did the work) & they were matched to the heads. I figure that the cams will be $100 each + shipping-- The carb set set me back $600 on Ebay--(& they are not jetted right yet--need the cams to finish them--but--I am going from a "stock" air intake size of 50mm to 38mm x 4 or 152mm throat--38mm is the venturi size per)--Still--without a turbo I expect to see 200/210Hp ;-) & the car is going to weigh in around 1600/1650lb. The dist was quite the production---"stock" EA-81 nip dizzy that had a fair amount of lathe time on it + a modified Honda drivedog--used a Left front head cam adapter sleeved to accept the dizzy & created a mounting/adjuster plate---re-designed the advance unit in the dizzy for centrifugal advance only--30 deg in at 3500rpm. All-in-all---not a lot of $ for the performance--just lots of brain time to make it all work" this is from a member on here a while back.......he also sent me some pics.... i like it alot.......... cheers, brian

look mate,i would say that people are just trying to look at all their options sos they can make an educated decision on purchasing.. and for ************s sake......you started posting like a month ago.it takes a little bit for people to gain trust. this is the interweb......its a big world out there,people say they are all kinds of things. your ebay account is all buying.how is a conclusion to be drawn from that? br>did you really think you were just gonna pop on here and sell a bunch of ************ without getting to know us?! a timeline was defenitely in order.if you really just want to help, why do you not want to wait any longer?that is what does not make sense to me.you can take all of this however the ************ you wish mate.cause i really would like a tranny,but am not likeing the rushed feeling.cheers , or not.....brian

undo the control arm bolt at the crossmember,,,,,then you can yank out and release from the trans stub shaft. at that point you can take a rubber mallet to the end of the bolting surface and whack it out of the bearings. cheers, brian

welp, finally got around to checking this out again. it was the alternator i had put in......it was a 100 amp unit from a chev. somehow does not want to work properly.so, will get another higher amp alt and finger it out when i need to. thanks for everyones input and links.cheers, brian

well, maybe someone can tell you how to get the tailhousing off. because after about 2 hrs of baccaruda and i looking at it , playing with it and beating on it.....we could not figure it out. i ended up cutting the shift rails.and pulling out the 4wd shift fork,which is what is keeping the tailhousing on........by being over a grooved gear synchro. so , damn, i should have just posted earlier and we both could have had answers...:lol:cheers, brian

yeah, it sounds like he doesna even have the tailhousing off.....as i just took one apart this morning.......of course , i wasna trying to save anything. but yeah if the tailshaft is off, you have the 35 mm but to deal with.cheers, brian

so , the ej center diff can be acquired from the USDM 5 spd then.....is what you are saying. cheers, brian

jg09 i mean , rally is fun....but.... and by the way.junkie, was right......about you readin. watch who's toes you step on son.... you don't know it yet,but if you shut your trap and listen for a bit, you might end up with some good friends....... or not...... cheers, brian

have fun with that........

in order for you to keep track proper Ian,it might help to clear up all the questions, THen start another thread. that way all who can decide they want one can be seperated from the folks who are still thinking about it.cheers, brian

love the roundy headlights....curious to see how this goes .would like to build one soon.......cheers, brian

rob, i was thinking the same thing........or have a local get it up the coast to another, etc....like a relay.... and at about 100# a tranny, the brat would have a hard time with ten...... i carried about a ton of concrete in mine once.lets just say i am glad it was only a couple of miles...... but it seems that getting them to seattle is not that hard.......i mean , figure the fuel to LA,thats quite a bit......i mean, you would need a truck like mine..... etc.... .....so , in the end, let me get this straight. we are looking at paying about 350US for a gearbox shipped to seattle via LA..... that is not that bad not bad at all.......i'm in,providing you can get them here for around that cost.i understand if it is 8 gearboxes instead of 10 it will go up a bit.....cheers, brian

i would be willing to bet that most of the folks are from the NW here in the US.so maybe seasttle is the best way to go........cheers, brian

don't take me wrong here...... i do not see any reason to disbelieve the tranny chart you posted.it was searched out and posted by a reputable member.cheers, brian