monstaru

if it is so easy,why are you not doing it in your forrester then?:)thats what i thought....... oh, and we were talking about modifying the r160..........so no, not easy..

i have heard from the racing crowd that it does not work. they nicknamed them "phantom slip" these are high horsepower cars, i would think that in a dirt situation you would not see any difference if they are not seeing a difference on the street.... they say that the springs are the weak link. what are going for here?and why are you not trying to utilize an LSD from a subie? is it the fact that you have no options for your axles?true =the stubs on an lsd unit may hinder this but i do not believe that you could not take some earlier rear axles from an impreza or legacy wagon and utilize them out back. someone pipe in here and tell me if it has been tried or not. i do not know,but have been inside of our differentials several times . or for about a hundred bucks more why not try to find an sti rear diff with lsd.....or are those viscuos? anyways, just some food for thought i guess.good luck with whatever you do.everyone likes traction!cheers, brian

have you ever searched for locker on this board?it has been talked about for years and years.and even looked into by engineers,machinist and the like.hell, i think a rocket scientist or two may have looked into it as well.and i am not joking. it comes down to the same thing every time.money, money, money.oh, and money. but i think you could do it.tell us when you have it figured out.i personally can't wait.:)cheers, brian

i've got a 3.9 already done .you want it?25 bucks you come get it.cheers, brian

absolutely beautiful.my buddy and i have plans for a tubing bender.they will get built this spring.that has been the plan for the hatch all along. damn cool to see photos of how he did it,and the fact that he wheels it.it gives me a tingly feeling inside when i see things like that:banana:........... i am confident now that anything i have done is going to last.love it .......cheers, brian

most of the issues that are encountered are linkage issues. did you tighten the accelerator cable flange to much?are the butterflys clearing the adaptor plate?are the bushings on the shafts worn? these are all possible.check it out. cheers, brian

did you also read that he tubed it out on the inside?and that it is not even running on subie power? blasphemy,but ************ing cool.cheers, brian

whats up with the tow-strapped subie? scott, lets see some pics of the "rear topper" you put on the white wagon!and more pics of you pullin some stuff off....cheers, brian

well, i did not get as far as ida thought.....rain,and getting some steel kicked down to me made me step away for a few. thanks mugs ,that steel is the same as what i have!i will get ahold of you when i am not working this week to come get some more!:)and thanks for the rest of the plastics i needed for the ej!cheers i got the front stuff tacked together while on the car.i will take the dummy crossmember off of there and mount up the real crossmember then weld it alltogether . here are a couple of boring pics again,i will add gussets where i see fit when i have it to that point. actually working this week!!woohoo....money!!!!! more pics here....cheers, brian

"a joke.A couple of pages later the OP was like the jokes up.Then went and said that he and his buddies were board so they went and welded the pinion to the ring gear to mess with everyone's heads" thanks for letting the joke out *********************..... and man,if someone really did that ..........i dunno if i would be able to contain myself.geezus....:lol:cheers, brian

well,i am thisclose to being able to hang the front suspension......i should be hanging it tomorrow afternoon.of course i do not have my shocks , uhh i mean struts fingered out yet. next step after that is to mock up the engine ,tranny,and t-case for t-case mounts.i'll post pics tomorrow evening. cheers, brian

huh,,,,,,how much cash wold you need on top to trade for a wagon?cheers, brian

if you just build a 2x2 tubing frame,mount the brat drivetrain to it you will be golden......the contours of the vw pan are not going to be the same as the brat drivetrain setup.so, i would measure the widths of the subaru drivetrain,then build the frame to the contours of the vw floorpan.make sense? do not cut the brat apart,it will do you no good.more effort to find yourself back where you started. just so we are clear, measure subie drivetrain widths.write this down several times so you do not forget or lose it. build subaframe to specified widths,and vw floorpan contours(front to back,as you know, they are relatively flat).so not that hard. cheers, brian

need any help you know where i live...........cheers, rbain

you are missing the point.i did not say anything would be wrong anywhere.i am telling you right now,it is useless to cut the floor out of the brat.it will accomplish nothing but setting it free from its prison......you will need to build a subframe. nevermind.have fun,and post pics along the way.cheers, brian

agreed, thurston orv is killer.............

well, i took an axle cup and the u joint yoke i want to use to my buddy at the machine shop today.he will get back to me when he talks to the machinist. he is also going to do a rockwell test on the cup and yoke to see if they will be weldable when we are done.(meaning that if they are close in rockwell rating they would be more malleable to each other i guess) as to not lose any strength. do not know when i will hear back from him , as it is a HUGE shop and it will be done on the side.(by huge i mean , they have a lathe that use to turn battleship gun barrels in the 40's that they converted to CNC for there purposes).and that is in the 3rd building that we built for them. still not entirely sure i will need a slip joint application utilizing the triangle tube i bought.i have to have the outer and inner done before i can put some u-joints together and look at the flex factor. i drilled the top mounting holes in the frame today for the engine crossmember area,now i am going to have to move my drill press into the middle of the floor and do a balancing act with the frame to get a through hole on the bottom so i can mount the suspension crossmember. then i am off and running.i sure have learned alot during this process,and cannot wait to do it again,so that i can streamline it.after this i will be able to put a frame together pretty quick.and will probably just do a buggie.it would have been easier:lol:..... lets see, what else.........i have been thinking of the front suspension quite a bit lately......still do not know what i will do.:confused:we shall see what time allows.anyways,cheers, brian

the last time i had a mid 60s bug in the driveway i had the entire front suspension off, and thought to myself,hmmm.this would be badass 4wd.but after crunching some numbers, i figured that i would have to build an entire subframe for the 4wd components ,and then put the bug floor pan on top. i mean , it is doable,but you can't just throw stuff like that together.you said you are on a budget?what type?cause that is something that will not be cheap to begin with. just curious....cheers, brian

i am not bashin,i just think that people get to caught upin.."oh, i have to have a machine shop do this" kinda attitude , and it is very apprehensive for them. i just wanted to point out that you do not need a mill to do rims, or hubs.just some careful measurements,and nice drillbits bixby tool has countersinks with a 60* tip........ and it would be rad to be able to drill other rims.....but i would rather have hubs drilled for somethin other than 6 lug...........what about that?cheers, brian

ok, so my triangular tubing came in today.i got the inner and the outer tube,with one of the outside flanges. i have to take some axle cups to a friend of mine to get turned down so that they can be fitted into said flanges and welded. i realize this is R&D but i thought i would post it. i am trying to decide how to finish out the front suspension crossmember. mind you , the frame is upside down right now.you can see how i gusseted the under side of the "z" in the frame here.(pics i owed you from the weekend)........i am thinking about welding the blocks to the frame, then drilling through from the top and tapping what will be the top of that block .....then drilling through the bottom to mount the suspension crossmember. utilizing these 4 inch blocks like this is reminiscent of our traditional lifts,only these would be welded on the frame side ....whatcha think?cheers, brian

thanks guys.i had seen most of those photos before on the HP webspace.did not know they were EC!awesome,will be a good time.can't wait to see the vid EZ....cheers, brian

try some seafoam first. just follow the directions on the bottle.cheers, brian

this shows me nothing of evans creek........i am not worried about the car......but i am not a driver.am looking for pics of actual runs.:lol:cheers, brian

age old arguement,had both on the brat and never had a problem with either. its all nice and neat that you have access to machine parts ,but you can do this with some careful measuring and a good drillbit too. cheers, brian

actually the entire strut sans strut cap will fit.just change out the strut cap and away you go.xt6, whole other talk show..........cheers, brian