monstaru

long travel in the front is easy too,much like was discussed in the other thread(long travel )........... like you said s'ko,it is easier to just make longer control arms and put some type of mount in the stock strut mounting locations.for an air shock or coilover. it would be easier to do this on a lifted rig, but probbaly able on a stock ride as well. same axle idea. as far s the 510 axles go,the inner stubs are attached to the flange mounting surface.meaning if you went that route you would need extra inners because those are generally the "fuse".those being the weak link i would not want to depend on finding them for very much longer in yards. much like our beloved subies the datsuns have a cult following ,bigger even.so those parts are even worse than our rare parts.i still think building our own is the way to go. i mean , it costs 200 or so to buy some new front halfshafts,why not build'em for the same approximate price?cheers, brain

i actually have some drawings of that with a 4 link setup as well. all a guy would do is make a transverse mount between the 2 knuckles and the diff making it "solid",then 4 link it and add air shocks. when the mount is built since it will be static a guy could make the axles angles fairly high. this one is a bit far off for me as i want to get this damn thing rolling and then work on this part of the project.......cheers, brain

wow, kinda young here to be spoutin off about being young here aren't ya? i think he deserves a ration of ************ about it,hopefully he lived and learned. his knee and clutch are his own fault,should have been more prepared.period, end of story,those things were a result of being unprepared. whether that be by utilizing more throttle from the get go,or going with someone else so that he had backup.....learn your vehicle,learn YOUR skills,and understand those limits. i am not trying to be an *********************, but come on......... i do commend him for posting the video.. i would not have left my car there,especially that close to town.a little at a time is all that is needed,even if it takes you hours.it was snow,you can move it.......cheers or not , brian

i have been looking at this very closely and found a source of parts to build 2 axles for around 180 bucks. splined shaft,u-joint style.you see, you can buy drive shaft parts cheap.and they are designed for high speed so why not transfer over to axles. and i have never seen square DOM.DOM stands for drawn over mandrel.i do not think you can do that with square tube.i may be wrong,but i have been looking at and buying metal for the last couple of weeks. anyways,with wide and offset u-joints high travel is a possibility.........think 930 porsche type.... you can buy the slip joints for about 43$ apiece,and the yoke ends and flange ends are about 8-12$ apiece.cutting the splined section off of the axle cups will be the trick,then weld the flange yokes to them. a guy can do it at home rather cheap,and with u-joints there is a certain amount of forgiveness as to the trueness of the shaft. cheers, brian

i still don't understand why you did not have a shovel,and did not try to dig out your undercarriage,then back out on your same tracks.......cheers, brian

all car stuff aside,i feel inclined to say that you were young once too.don't revel in your "gut feeling " to much.let him have his adventure,sometimes it is not always about being right. like it or not,he is obviously going to do what he wants.:grin:cheers, brian

well, i think that 360 is absolutely gorgeous.she can come home with me anytime............so whoever owns her hear this:i am coming for her.i won't be there soon.but when i am i will not take no for an answer.she will be mine, oh yes, she will be mine.:drunk:cheers, brian

awesome, i just saved those photos to photobucket mick, thanks a bunch.i guess i do not keep up with the times enough to have seen that post. well, it looks like i have a VLSD .:lol:cheers, brian

that was a dig at him J.......he was asking me about my tube bumper on the rear of the brat insinuating that he wanted to buy it.bu tit is poorly done and would not feel right about selling it to someone.cheers, rbain

NICE!.......told ya you could do it. now ya just need a rear bumper:lol:.cheers, brian

welp,i am pretty sure that this is a vlsd too.hopefully these pics do not get lost and we have a reference point from here on out. cheers, brian

no, no they aren't both open. the one on the left has SOME sort of locking mechanism associated with the little extra plate where the ring gear mounts. you can even see the difference in this photo of the casing. ] the difference can be seen here,at the bottom of the casing there is more meat right above that plate. and here, where that plate connects to the outside....... whatever that plate does or has behind it,locks that sides spider gear,then in turn does not allow the center to rotate therefore locking the other spider gear.it is not open.there is no damage anywhere on it either. it is not a phantom grip ,as those are big and bulky and go in the center of the diff.and i have an lsd going into this 4.44 case, that is the whole reasoning i opened this up and found what i have found.i am well aware of what characteristics i wish to have for offroad. cheers, brian

got some mounting for the subframe done today,cut some mounting tabs for the front,also cut the "z" pieces which i do not know if i will be able to use.DOH!! also been doing some legwork for the rear axles.findings are interesting so far.cheers, brian

well then,someone have a pic of the VLSD chunk? because i have been into many a diff and the one on the left passes the spin test (both stubs i inserted turned in the same direction)as the one on the right does not. i have also had my hands on several clutch pack LSD's and know what the characteristics are.that pin through the middle had me fooled as well.but the extra plate matching the ring gear depth on the one on the left is what has me questioning things.it appears that if removed it would take the pressure off of the rest of the ring gear mount...which leads me to believe it is holding something in there,like a viscous unit. maybe it is aftermarket,it did come from a 2002 forester,and has some recent writing on it that matched some writing on the case.which leads me to believe it had been serviced as of late... and if you lok at the other pics on photobucket,you can see the difference in spider gears,the open diff spider gears are open at the end of the teeth,the other one has a lip at the end of the teeth with corresponding bevel on the other spider gears. not saying i know everything for sure,but if it barks like a dog,walks like a dog,and ************s like a dog....its probably a dog.ya know.:lol:cheers, brian

never seen the inside of one of the VLSD's.anyone have pics? the chunk on the left has all of the characteristics of an LSD.the right is obviously open.these both came from 4.44 diffs.the open from an outback,and the maybe vlsd from a 2002 forester.what ye say? more pics here cheers, brian

why are you so opposed to beveling?it is really easy, cheap , and a good bit of insurance for you and your rally-x car.... which by they way is going to be taking a beating in those three minutes..........as you know. you are not drag racing,you are rally crossing. i don't think the flat washers would pass tech anyway.cheers, brain

righto, thanks for the heads up.my case is getting rebuilt before i put it in,so, the shifter sheet is i=on the list,seeing as how mine is already FUBAR"D......:lol:cheers, brian

awesome,seeing as how he got his setup from me.can't wait to see it runnin.cheers, brian

depending on the year it came from you can get all black wires,if you bought the module from the parts store you could get all black wires,if you got it from a junker you could get all kinds of different colored wires. what year?where did you get the module?round plug?long ovalish plug.....? i have a couple of diagrams,give me a shout and we can chat about it.cheers, brian

have you had any issues with the sammi t-case lever shifting into gears after the case being clocked,and (i am assuming here) the shifter rod massaged,bent and or both?cheers, brian

well, i get to work today.at least i can think about something else for a change.yay,concrete! i got the u-joint mania........keep thinking about those damn rear axles. well, this week will be slow as i picked up a suzuki driveshaft in good shape to hack up to make another driveshaft.i should have all of the suzuki flanges i need now. after a look last night , the u joints are amazingly close in size, so i will see if subie u-joints fit into suzuki flanges.if not i will take a trip to brown bearing and see what they say about it. if they are bearers of bad news i will just cut and weld.cheers, brian

what he is saying is that you do not need a proportioning valve.just get fittings to connect the lines if you want to get rid of the hillholder. cheers, brian

that is not the weber 32/36 carb. that is a carter/weber carb. the 32/36 upgrade is well worth it.especially if you are going to race it.cheers, brian

i think you need a new switch. cheers, brain

no?ok.....i'll gather some parts,and we shall see. re-build i guess i should have said....................... cheers, brian:)