monstaru

well, as it stands, it will only be about 6 to 8 inches of lift.with a sammi t-case.the diffs are 4.44's.the rear is already welded.i want an lsd front, but i do not have one. it will be subframed,obviously for the t case.currently i have 235/75 15's for the tires(off the brat).six lugged,rear disced,ej2 carbied with a newer carb setup than i had last time.a few other surprises.i was trying to win a show with the brat, and put it in the wrong category.niot this time.i just wanna drive it.and learn more about driving.we all know, especially you scott,that i am not a good driver.. crawl ratio at basic standards is not very good only like 56:1.... when i can get the gears for the t-case it will jump to 162ish to :1 simple lightened hatch.looking at about 150hp with good gearing.eventually turning into a buggy.have no idea when it will be done.but i should at least have a basic edition done before the end of winter.meaning driveable.cheers, brain

you need a wiring diagram...............you have a pm....cheers, brain

i have never checked out a 2.5 sohc. an easy way to tell would be to see if it has a cam access port on the back where a turbo would go. if it does, take that access plug off and see if the cam has a slot and hole in it. you need the port to be able to adapt one to the disty.if is no port you can always buy 2.2 heads.but i would hold out for a 2.2 .there is a lot of info if you search the net for 2.2 carb.cheers, brian

ok, so as soon as i got the lift components being figured out i had to do some work stuff(nice right before christmas for the dough)....couldna turn it down ya kinow. anyways,there is alot of metal work i need to accomplish for this project,and cutting stuff witha grinder rarely gives square cuts.so, i am on the hunt for chop saw. it also requires some crazy holes drilled,and my front hubs are begging to match the rear so.......i picked this up yesterday.built a base for it today, got it leveled and will do some lubrication and testing this weekend. it will be nice to have this sweetheart as i picked her up for dirt cheap and she has a 5/8 inch chuck.i will be able to utilize any dang bit i come across. here is a pick of the lift components so far.the nicely well built beautiful ones are from Bill Omlin(the beast i drive).the others are pieces of steel i had lying around.they will be a conglomeration of both for a good lift subframe combo. i will be picking up steel this next week for the subframe front to back and side to side. as soon as i pick up a chop saw i will be cutting the peices for the engine crossmember as well. my neighbor and another friend have assured me that when i need to weld i can , so i will be working on the welder slowly as to get it right.its relevance is to eventually be on the rig itself, so not only do i want it,but will eventually need it.as i break things from not knowing how to drive... this update has been brought to you by deschutes brewery,specifically.....green lakes organic.cheers,brian

heres me thinking real hard about being mad about this picture being taken........cheers, brian

looks clean man....good job.new daily driver?details........cheers, brian

no. it is longer,you can boots at napa for like 10 bucks a apiece.might get you another little while as long as you have not lost any pieces of the inner axle.cheers, brian

but, you have to account for the "rollcage"...chance are you won't really lose any weight.it will just equal out.all of the cutting will require more tube to fix than you think . just make a cage around a subaru suspension setup.then figure on the motor. to efficiently use the power that diesel you speak of has, you are looking at a go cart size monstrosity,unless you make it direct drive.which torque wise would not be very smart.just some suggestions. a buddy of mine and i have been talking about this for a while.and we have looked at 20 ish horse power diesel engines to 4 cyl engines from yanmar,kubota,smaller isuzu, toyota,cummins,and nissan etc..... if this engine is free, then build a smaller buggy altogether.didn't you say once that you were in some fabrication classes?sounds like a good project to me.and if you don't end up using the motor i'll buy it for $100 bucks from you so that i can.cheers,brian

i have been wanting to do this for a while.post pics!cheers, brain

well, it is jetted like they come from redline,so..........it will be loved.cheers, brain

nice,should be fun.....we are lookin at maybe gettin an outback or forrester next year for her.for now i will stick with the old school.cheers, brain

first off.figure out what motor you have(stamped on the block nextish to the disty. that will tell you ea71,ea81 etc. next,the gl dl is just a trim package. hatches are the same beast as brats in that,the years go beyond the normal ea81 yr range being 80/81 to 84. so find out your engine style and you can pretty much go from there.then do you have a d/r transmission?meaning a dual range 4 wheel drive?all basic stuff that i am sure you will pick up easily.cheers, and good luck,there is plenty of knowledge here for you.cheers, brain

is that your ol'lady yackin in the last video? i like her."go straight,no to the left stuff.ahh, that kills me!:lol:they sqay that cause they know they don't have to get it out. nice,you look like you want to lift that thing.:brow:whens that gonna happen?cheers, brian

This Thread Is Worthless WithOut Pics.......... i realize some of the other pics would be lost,but what about new progress pics?cool damn modification and i want to see more damnit! cheers, brain

TTIWWOP...........:)CHEERS, BRIAN sorry didna mean to yell

i elongated the strut mount holes inboard.a few others have as well a die grinder,a good bit and some goin at it! not that much even.like a 1/2 an inch and you will be surprised.cheers, rbain

well, it has to be the entire crossmember.not just the arms.that is the main issue.all of the front components have to be switched.so you would have to see if the strut rods will cross over. there are other things that come to mind, like length of the rods etc.........i dunno search for a-arms in the offroad section cheers, brain

it has been done,i cannot remember who at this moment.but it has been done.main concern was camber.........cheers, rbain

the pics are there in a link form........ i gave up.not worth my time really.i tried for at least 8 hours to accomplish this task, over several days.sorry steve............cheers, brain

there is a bunch of info if you search in this forum.do a little reading.this is a question that is turning into "one of those questions" cheers, brian

LOOK AT THE PICS!!!!I SWEAR NO BOLTS... in post 6.......i did however make progress,well, i got it to release more from the bottom.but still stuck on the one corner on both heads.this is turning into a chore.and i hate chores.:lol:subiemech:damn good idea on the wedge.i did go get one,and it helped to a point.but i am not able to get the top apart as much as it needs to get in there. i have to be missing somethin'...someone look at the pics and see something i am not,please.cheers, brain

yeah,i went and drank beers after 4:30......all head bolt nuts are removed that i can see....here cheers, brain

ok, so i have taken ea heads off and ej heads off.almost all of them, even some with 200k plus were fairly effortless. i have an ea63 downstairs that i am working on for another board member,and for the ************ing life of me cannot get them off. i have them basically seperated the width of a putty knife all the way around except for an area that is identical on both heads.i realize there are probably sleeves around some of the head bolts,and those are probably the culprit. amazingly i have failed to damage the heads to this point,and obviously would like to keep it that way.any suggestions? cheers, brian

love it......i wish i would have a had a designer/fabricator,my build would have gotten done:lol:(not making fun)just sayin............its nice when you have someone that knows what they are doing.cheers, brian

what he said..........:lol:cheers, brian