monstaru

i would love to get in on this if you do it mugs.as i live right down the street from the shop.mainly want to see what is involved. you should stop by sometime.send me a pm with your contact info .and we can hang out .cheers, brian

ok, so i been huntin for a few weeks and doing nothing on the hatch. well,at long last i got something done. before: during: after: now, i did this mod to the brat as well,i learned some things,like seal the seems and such. which i did with regular black rtv as to remain flexible and be able to be reapplied. i was going toweld, then rethought as it would be really lame to have to replace a fender and have to cut it off.i was also going to use allmetal(an epoxy type filler) to do the seams but same ending difference would have occured. i used stainless steel self tapping 1/4 screws with sealing washers to hold the folds up.a few pie cuts and all of the rough edges were pounded to fold over with the good ol' ballpeen, then sealed with the rtv. if you want to see more photos of the process you can go here. the lift is hopefully here in a few weeks.some of the other goodies are in the works as we speak.we shall see how it goes.cheers, brian

just cut the bottom of your intake box off inside the fender.huge difference.cheers, brian

there is no way to run a disty that i found.or i might have gone with a rebuilt 2.5. an independant management system is about the only option.but most of those use injector setups i thought.i'll trade you your 2.5 for a 2.2 :Dcheers, brian

big screwdriver through same hole as hanger,place flathead of screwdriver behind hanger end and pry off...........:Dcheers,brian

there were alot of pics previous to the downtime of the server. as PSYKO says, you can find them in my album. cheers, brian

yep the crank pattern is the same.as a matter of fact when you take the flexplate off , a little spacer will fall off.that spacer is agreat guide to use as a pattern to redrill the ea82 flywheel, i repeat, ea82 flywheel. and buying a haynes is like reading a technical manual.it would most likely be easier to try an find a factory setrvice manual from someone on here or nasioc, or maybe ebay.these are much more specific and easier to read(at least to me)anyways, good luck. cheers, brian

my suggestion is to spend the money you were going to spend on this "repair" on some tools(you can get a pretty cool craftsman set this time of year for 150 bucks) and a couple of repair manuals(haynes and " how to keep your subaru alive") instead of plugging a guys wallet.alot of mechanics are rather unfair to unknowledgable car owners. just my 2 cents cheers, brian

mcbrat says, "ea82 flywheel turned to xt6 specs, ea82/xt6 clutch disc, xt6 pressure plate." so i am guessing yes..........cheers, brian

1st off, an automatic has a flexplate, not a flywheel. you would not be using an ej flywheel anyhow.you would need an ea82 flywheel that has been modified to fit the ej motor.. and there are plenty of other folks that have figured this out. i am sure som more searching in a day could return you some results that you are looking for.cheers, brian

some front view got some cleanin' done on the block today and finally, some clearanced disty love.still have to adjust the mounting on the top slide hole,add the adjustable advance,and o ring it. i was lucky enough to find a reman'd disty at the yard as the price went up 50 bucks since i last did this!just happened to say top myself, i wonder,is there a disty here for me?and sure enough there was.20 bucks as opposed to almost 90 now from the auto shop.woohoo,hopefully i will have my backside timing covers this week sos i can slap it all back together. oh, and subies are my crack, i was wondering why i was not the same when i wasn't wrenchin on stuff almost daily.........better than crack i think. checked out some other carb options today as well.someone buy some of my stuff so i can buy it!!!!:grin:cheers, brian cheers, brian

a brace between the rear will do wonders also.granted the rigidity of a wagon is pretty good,but think of the body roll factor.does that make sense?i guess what i mean is if you put a brace in the rear and ran it straight across it would make it possible to tie into .you could just build a cage much like the one in the photo right behind the seat non -intrusively and have it extend rearward to the strut top area.then you achieve front to back and left to right.this limits your fold down seat option for space , but if your gonna do it there is going to be concessions anyway. cheers, brian

i stripped down the engine tonight,to get her cleaned up.she rotates freely so that is good. i picked another rebuilt weber up a couple of weeks ago to start off with. i will finish cleaning up the block tomorrow,and get the cam gears off,so that i can put on the new timing pieces when they get here. gotta find some exhaust options,hopefully a header is in my future.but whatever. basically everything i did to the brat i will do to the hatch and a few extras that i never got around to. the lifts blocks will get to me next weekendish and i can start that. already have quite a bit that i need.like almost everyting,just a matter of assembly. i had just done bearings,bushings,and such on the brats front end ,fresh disc stuff to the rear,so all of that is going on as well.should be pretty solid when she is put together.cheers, brian can yo9u believe this is freshly turned?

same here, no issue.cheers, brian

that is nice mikie......... brian

With regards to the front end, my L series is 6" lifted...if I'm now going to run my engine crossmember and engine back in the stock location, surely this is too high up for the front control arms to mount? Wouldn't I need to run a second engine crossmember spaced down 6 inches for the control arms and steering rack to sit on? yes, yes you would.

the lock is througha part that sticks up and out of the ignition set,and locks into slots on the steering shaft , or vice versa, i am not looking at it right now.:)but it is something close to that...cheers, brain

the lock is integral with your ignition set.obviously. take your steering wheel off.some of them have screws for the cover plate to the bolt(read horn button),some of them just pop off.now when i say pop off, first make sure that there are no screws.and when you pop it off you will find a 17mm nut. take this off. then wiggle the steering wheel to come off of the splines. you will need to remove the steering column covers as well.about 6 screws from the bottom.the bottom will fall off,the top will take some persuading. you will see your ignition setup. there are 4 boltson the dash side that are 10mm.these are a pain in the rump roast to get at but necessary to take out.they will incessently slide down the inside of the steering column.get an extendable magnet before you start or you will be really pissed by the end of the day. when the ignition is free it will slide off of the column,making your steering column fall into the bracketry(the ignition set has the ignition switch attached to the back of it with two phillips screws,remove them and you will see why soobs are easy to steal.)you will need to have the key turned to at least past acc. to remove it. it will slide off.at that point you can see how the lock works.you can take a pair of vice grips and break the lock itself,or it might just slide out.i have had both happen.cheers, brian

i swear i just used an ea82 flywheel with disc and plate.because they had the same bolt pattern. it has been a while since i tackled that one,but i am sure someone smarter than me will chime in.:grin:cheers, brian

well ************ man, subarus and guns, two of my favorite things.damn, no invite?:grin:cheers, brian

take a grinder with cutting disc,cut as close as you can to the main body on the stub.the bolt is tapered kinda so when you cut low enough the stub itself will come off.then you just have to deal with the bolt.whenever we have cut the stubs off the pressure on the bolt is released and most times came out with some vice grips.cheers, brian we have also tried heat before,do not really know if it helped or not.

that lift is long gone.wow, swear to god it went to someone witha silver hatch! anyways,i have some pieces being made for me by a friend of mine at a machine shop we have been doing some work for.and some other parts coming from other favors.so it will be a a bit before it is lifted.but i have plenty to do in the meantime. rewire the engine bay to my liking,clean up the motor from sitting for a year.etc,etc..cheers, brian

very very close to not having one i'd say,would defenitely have to have some sort of adapter for spacing the pinion nuts though.........cheers, brian

well, she left me today.yep thats right,monstaru (albet not the same shape she was)went to a new home without her obvious mods. on the trailer sianara babyt girl......... on to the next one..here she is..... cheers, brian

hey , i remember that car................:grin:cheers,brian