ferp420

He has a lego doner car some.one smoked the wireng harness and computer but it.doses run realy good unless its idleing and it will.trough random codes and run like crap i istalled the motor about 3 years ago for his doughter she drove it everywere untill the neighbor desided he dident like her car idleing and did something and the harness fried the dealer got.it running like it is but the car wasent worth the dealer redoing the entire car the motor did come from the dealer he paid 300 for it rebuilt by one of there mechanics in the dealers shop it has around 30k on it now and it purs like a sowing machine at any rpm over 2k so with a new wiring harness and a new computer it would make a great doner

I Finaly got time to work on murphy i had to strip the wireing harnes down and redo it and clean all the conectors redo all the vacume lines and reinstall all the factory parts and hid what i dident fix went through the ignition system and replaved both cats and the o2 sensor and it passed smog and now has tags next step is to change the vacume actuator on the trans so the diff lock works.and reinstall the procomp ignition after that we will see what fate has in store for the old murph im glad my buddie dident give up on this one as its back on the road

I Would say that intake valve is toast with all the pitting its gona colect carbon and ruin the air flow around the valves at best ive had to many valves in that codition snap on me and take out a piston or a whole motor if it just looks worse than it realy is then clean the isht out of it till it shines then the carbon will have a hard time sticking to it

You can always tell a mall crawler by were they mount there accsesories that light bar is doomed were it sits thats the first point of contact with anything i cant tell you how many times ive bearied my bumper in the dirt or sand or mud or rocks so when you build your real bummper get that light bar up somewere safe

There is some seriese issues if that head gasket was done 2 months ago it looks like its never been done before and if in fact it was they did a horable job every thing should be clean and carbon free when put back together there shouldent be any rust anywere unless water sat in the cylinder for a long time even after a year of sitting outside 100ft from the ocean with no plugs and water in the cyliders i havent seen anything that ugly that looks like it sat exsposed to the air and water for years like a junk yard head nothing some time with a wire wheel and a good cleaning wont fix and make sure to use atleast some coolant in the system it helps to keep the corosion in the system down so if someone did do the gaskets they dident prep the head and that would be why it failed but i dont know why anyone would go to the trouble of changing a head gasket and not cleaning the surfaces on the head and block On second thought i did have 1 head that looked like that it had water in the cylinder for about 10 years it cleaned up i have it somewere the rings and pistons cleaned up to but the cylinder boar was pitted and has a valley kinda thing going from the rust lol im sure it could be honed out but why ive got 3 more blocks laying around

Looks like fun If it wasent for all the green stuff i would say your racing up and down my street lol it looks just like the main road to my house

I Plan on replacing the entire arm with longer ones with hiem joints but if that dosent happen ill box the controle arms in and i like the idea of reinforcing the crossmeber so ill do that too i also plan on building custom struts for the front kinda like pontoontod dude did only on the cheaper side im hoping to find a pair of cheap rebuildable shocks to keep my price down i did find the fox shox for.100 a pop so maybe someday maybe lol i found some super cheap performance shocks that will work for the rear i exspect them to kick but for about 6 months then ill probably need to replace them but they cant be any worse than whats on there now

I Use my foot to push tbe tire down and drop the blocks in from the top takes about 5 min per side

Are your roters cast or are they cnc machined cast roters are never true but it shouldent cause a big issue but the cnc are true as there machined out of a solid piece of metal

If i bend any part.of this set up ill be stoked im havin so much fun and what the hay i built it.once i can do it again its not like i payed some one to do it for me or spent alot on it the only things i bought were the urithane bushings and the rod ends less than 50 and theres lots of.adjustment left for geting home on bent links lol and its easy to r&r but honestly its got.to be the strongest part.of the entire car but that dosent mean it wont bend when im done the front suspention will tie in to the rest of the sub framelike work that allready conects to the rear k bar sliders tube fenders and front bumper so its gona bend more than just the link when it dose bend but its gona have to be one hell of a hit to bend any part i built in this set up i dont know if im getting my squat ratios right though so ill probably have to redo parts of it anyway but ive got to start somewere i havent seen anyone else do anything like it so i dont have any one to copy its trial and error on this only time and abuse will.tell

There is this guy on the forum i think he is salt lake probably very close to you the screen name is jsil im sure he/she could do the job and im guessing the price would be resonable as well my guess is that if you had to pay someone to do the job the parts and labor would cost around a arm and a leg and most shops wont do the job liabulity issues besides if you do the job your self when you do break something you know how to fix it or atleast have a better idea of whats going on AAA dosent do off road recoverys so its up to you and your crew to get you back home theres lots of info here to help if you have issues with the lift and you will have the satisfaction of knowing you built your rig just sayin enjoy

Orealy axles uses cheap boots that ware out quick and they dont use any grease in the joints add good boots and quality grease and those cheap aftermarket axles hold up just fine even with 5" of lift and 30" tires and i beat on mine they held up as long as any of my rebuilt factory axles i realy like the idea of better stronger cages though the reality of it is i would rather break a axle than my trans so stronger might not be better for the fact that the next week link is inside the transmission it self and i dont usaly carry a spare trans i like the new hd or light duty axles they came out with simply because there easyer to change if they hold up at all i think those would be the best canidate for the stronger cages

Synthetic oil in your trans and dif get rid of any extra wait in the car remove the engine mounted fan and replace it.with a electric one and add a msd ignition to get a very complete burn add a air damb on the front and smooth the body of any ruff edges for arodinamics maybe it will net 2-3 mpg

One side done

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New thread here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163257-i-saw-this-then-i-did-this/

Is that a dr suess book lol get a cat in a hat have him live in that and eat that rat that lives in the brat i couldent resist

A