ferp420

Big ones lol or maybe 235/75/15 there everywere the 235/70/15 are a realy nice size those are wide rims your gona need a big tire the tread should at least be as wide as the rim so look up how wide the tire is that you want to buy compared to your rim i think the 235/75 are 9.5 wide anything wider than 9" will work maybe even down to 8.5 but i wouldent go any smaller you may also want to glue your tires to your rim also if you want to run lower tire presures the bead will pop easyer than say a 7" wide rim

Reality has to set in my tires are 28% larger than stock thats equvalent to putting 38" tires on a half ton truck built to run 30" tires theres no posable way to change that the tires are just to big for the car adding way more stress to everything everyware on the car we accept that when we lift these rigs we know parts are gona fail the good thing for us is these cheap fuses have a lifetime warrenty so ive accepted that and found a easyer to change axle so if they hold up for any time at all ill consider that the best solution

I Have a thread some were on here of my rebooting and greasing + pics of dry axles out the box i sent the pictures to orielys so they know what about the problem they wouldent warrenty there axles i raised hell and now they dont give me any problems so i sent a nice long email and documented everything for there troubles

Some people dont drive there cars enuff to break axles i had 3 sets of factory axles i rebooted them and greased them and they failed i used to work at one of thoughs shops that remanufaftured cv axles so ive rebuilt way more than my share in a profesional mannor so rebooting factory axles is not the end all be all solution you can take the aftermarket axles and add grease and new silicone boots and they last for years even being beat on hard with 30"tires i was only getting a month or 2 out of my aftermarket axles before i started rebuilding them my self out of the box brand new before i even instaled them the new axle rebilt with new silicone boots and sinthetic grease last a long time even under big torque and big tires while towing other cars and construction dabries and trash and logs around on a trailer in deep sand mud and rocks ive found that out of the box there is very little grease in the joints if any one was bone dry no grease at all and the boots they use suck the angle of the axle scrunches up one side of the boot and stretches the other side add heat and they only last a few hundread miles i still have high hopes for th3 hd axles even though my first one failed in like 200 miles but it did have grease in it so thats promising lol

The hd axles will hit the crosmeber and explode if you dont drop the crossmeber enuff there alot thicker than the stock axles right were the lower controle arms mount because of the slip yoke but you can change them in 5 min with out taking the tire off even faster if you use quick pins to hold them on thats worth the extra cost and effert alone

I think im just gona tack it all back together then move the rod mounts back and add hyme joints so its adjustable theres no way its going back to the stock set up now the blocks i am using are saposed to bend before the body gave the pasenger side did ive gone through about 3 sets on the passenger side and its solid still i have extras so i can change them out but it dident work like that this time oh well on to the next idea hopefully its stronger ill have to.check the rear too those desert woops are deadly

Doeh i hate it when that happens

Thats called glasing and it dose happen but roters warp like all metal that gets heated and cooled at differant temps ive seen some realy bad ones glazing causes more of a squeek than a shudder a bad or out of ballance tire can cause shaking in the front wheel as can worn parts or if you drill your rims off center lol done that to lol

Jack it up in the middle and let it sit for a few days like that and then add some braces through the fire wall to the cage and some under body tie in points weld some plates over the welded cracks and run it ive bent a few cars like that i just kept driving them the ford explorer was the worst the doors were almost 4" out from closing the tow truck guy had to strap the doors shut lol fixed it got almost 10 years out of that rig but it was a body on frame rig if it were me i would keep running this one till its belly is dragin but find a new body asap and reinforce the new one so it dosent fail in the same way i dont race and i have extra loyale body laying around for when my wheeler gets to bad just sayin start planning now there unibody rigs its bound to happen sonner than later or just tube it all F the front window F the a pillers b pillers tube it bla bla bla if i ever get around to building up my outback im gona tie the front bumper to the back bumper and to the cage and since its gonanbe 4 linked its gona have a frame under it too all tied together even my loyale the front bumper is tied in to the rear end just behind the rear wheels it dosent go to the back bumper though but wouldent take much to conect it all together but i wanted some kind of crumple zone still my tube work is all that is holding the rear pasenger side quarter pannel in place Your struts are inspireing i want to give building a set a try my self and langthen my front control arms im thinking 8" of traval might be posable with out getting to crazy and be doable on my budget

Issusussussiu rodeo or amigo steal wheels just fit under the lip of the fender mostly

I would look in to useing ea82 parts im guessing some things like rings and bearings might be the same but i dont realy know i never tore that far in to a ea81 but might be worth cheking in to it wouldent be a kit though there is a company selling rebuild kits for the ea82 they say they do custom kits so if you do the reserch they might have the parts to make a kit up for you http://www.ebay.com/itm/331622909673. But you should pull it apart before ordering or else you might order the wrong sizes or be waisting your money on a non rebuildable block

Some people use camber bolts on the inner side of the swing arm but i dont know how well it will h9ld up some slot that hole and use a reguler bolt some slot the bolt holes in the top of the struts but the strongest way will be to cut new blocks im trying to figure something out but i havent yet

I have one side at 18° one at 15° just cut new blocks till its right i think 15° is for saggie springs 18° worked with new tempo springs it might take a bit of driving to settle in but the blocks are easy to change out if they are off off a little bit i think the key to the axles lasting is adding grease to them when there new as the last 10 or so axles i got dident have any grease in them the ones i greased new are about 2 years old now and one failed a few months ago and the other is starting to make noise oddly enuff the hd axle failed in a few hundread miles go figure on there was no grease in It ether

Gives you a instant 100hp gain kinda like sniffin the gas all the time lol no wait it makes it fly like a red bull no wait it creates multiple sparks per cylinder rotation insureing a complet burn of the fuel giving you more power and more eficancy at low rpms look its a bird no its a plane no its a msd ignition box the end all be all magic box that turns turds in to the wrx it will win drag races agains yugos and geos with v8 like power you will be able to run moster truck tires with no rubbing just add some led lights and a 3s lipo maybe get a bigger esc im sure it will be faster wait what were we talking about again

I keep getting asked how to hook up a msd box so I made a quick video about it I didn't know how until I asked on this forum I didn't come up with his but I've been running it for about 6years now and its been the single best mod I've done and its very easy to hook up

Bolt on will be a msd ignition and good spark plugs and opening up the intake under the fender a little and a throtle bodys spacer the engine wont take any more fuel and air it just wont even forcing it down its throught wont help with out internal engine mods i tryed all you will do is cause it to spudder and cough even after all my mods i raised the fuel presure alittle bit the computer couldent handle it and it just sputtered and coughed putting a spacer under the stock throtle body will give the air and fuel more time to mix before making a hard 90 so it burns what your giving it more efficiantly the msd make sure you burn all the fuel for the best performance

You stop when the body stops buckling tie that skid in to the role cage and rear framework or your gona be lookin for a new rig sooner than later

oops

I will say this with out moding the heads and intake adding more fuel will just bog it down there just isent enuff flow through the heads shaving the heads is fine shave the block to while your at it the cams wont be a issue but the intake wont line up right and the bolt holes will need ovaled out but the spacers are machined right they can compisate for the differance and make everything line up right i havent played with the cams at all i still run stock cams its still a daily driver after all i wouldent even know were to start with the cams and from what ive read there the best there gona get for all around use but that could be the missing link to building a ej competitor i dont know but seeing as how its dead already you cant hurf it so go for it lol

My 2.5 head gasket issues haven't been fix there still a problem we just did the 04 gaskets 5000 miles ago the 98 will never see the road again and I'll never buy another Subaru with a 2.5 again the ea82 on the other hand being dead gives us a huge opportunity to reserect it rebuild it frankinsine it burn them up in any way possable and have fun with them i still have 3 to build from and 3 spar3 oil pumps im sure there not great but must be better than nothing I say port the heads and intake manifold add spacers under the throtle body shave the valves polish th3 exhaust ports grind the weld bead flat on the inside of the exhaust by the header open up the intake thats inside the fender and if your looking for more low end torque add spacers between the intake manifold and the heads port match all your gaskets and use high quality plugs and wires run some kind of msd ignition and sinthetic oil in your trans and rear diff with all that your smoking the ea82t so its over 110hp judging by how much faster and st4onger it pulls im saying 120ish range its at the limits of the spfi system so its alittle ruff at times but it pulls harder on 3 cylinders than a stock motor dose on 3 maybe a carb might handle the mods better or piggie back a maga squirt or something im just a tinkerer im not a machinest or a engine builder and if i can get this kinda punch out of this engine i would imagine some one with some real skills could do better so if the ea82 is dead then why not cook it up and make a meal out of it i did and will do again till all my ea82s are gone then i will go electric or move on to a different platform wether its a ej rig or a toy or maybe ill just finnish building my scout

You can mount one but there won't be enuff side wall support so the tire will most likely fold over posablely popping a bead a vw bug tire might work though just not a tire that size there are charts out there that give the max and min rim width for a given tire size

Front warped roters almost always shows it self in the steering wheel brake peddle pulsing is a rear drum out of round when a drum is turned your taking off material unevenly in the drum causing thin spots and thick spots this aplifies the warping because the metal cools at different Times thin spots cool faster and heat up faster that's why changing the rotors doesn't help it's your back breaks that is one of the first thing I was taught about breaks some 30 years ago it's not always true but 90% of the time it is