ferp420

The 2.5 was never reliable lol in my opinion after 7 engines in my outback i think i am entitled to that opinion and I think 110hp out of a ea82 is doable im guessing i had around 120 out of my ea82 but define reliable I got 20k from my last build but it was built from junk parts it is a lot of work and if your not in to tinkering and are relieing on some one else to do the work it will get outrageous very quickly you can't just upgrade one thing it has to be done as a system the factory had the best set up for all around use if you want to mod it for your needs every thing needs to be modded to match or the mods will conflict with the factory settings also if your using spfi set up the computer gets kinda funny and takes around 100 miles to adjust to the changes the more power the funnyer it gets a carb might be able to make more power but at what cost

Yup I'll give it another try this time ill grease it my self and I'll drop the cross member a bit more it was bad out of the box but I didn't have a lot of time and was out in the desert and needed the car to work so I took it anyway oh well at least it's easy to change out

So the axle sead pop that was quick the inner joint failed I'm guessing there's no Greece in there oh well it happens warranty time

Fix a flat maybe or slime just a thought ive been using silicone ultra black alot for sealing up stuff like tires and water containers and rc car parts i wrap thead around the patch it holds up good to heat and presure and the thread give it substance and durabuility it is kinda like flexable fiberglass will it hold 100psi i dont know i wraped a glass vase ( sure it was ) that had broken and it held up till some one stepted on it and crushed the glass the silicone and thread kept its shape and still held water even with crunchy broken glass inside it diden leak so now i use it for everything after all a tire is just rubber and cords maybe tire black (that was the name brand of the rubber patch stuff we used at good year i patched/rebuilt a 2" hole in a side wall of a big truck tire with that stuff lasted the life of the tire) rubber with thread or twine

I have the same issues my back doors wont open ether but i sure it has to do with the fact that they were welded shut funny no windows ether huh no seats ether besides who needs back doors anyway lol and my outback has the exsact opposite problem there are no doors left to open or close so i guess im sayin who needs any doors anyway lol

I have a teardrop brand cab over camper for my truck its really nice add a tow bar and the entire Subaru becomes a trailer lol prsonaly I would have left part of the front end that looks funkie like that like it has a big scar kinda like it had cancer and is waiting for plastic surgery maybe if the tounge was shorter they could put a boot between them like a extra long city bus lol

I think there 1990 struts that I used its off of the v2 300zx so I think 89-94 or something like that the really nice thing about these are there built for a heavy high performance vehicle and there is a massive aftermarket supporting that rig so alot of strut options I'll snap a pic next time I'm at the shop

Hum what pump the break the piston sticks release pesure it opens if the piston sticks when u take pressure off then it doesn't mater how you release the pressure just matters that it sticks his piston returns when he opens the bleader there fore releasing the pressure if Sead piston were sticking when he let off the pedal it would still stick when the bleader is opened the fact that it returns means the problem is not the piston a nother simple test pump the breaks crack the line before the caliper like were the hard line meets the soft line see if it releases try it at the master cylinder then at the caliper you can isolate the bad line like that ive done this so many times on so many different cars its always the same issues always the same fix bad break line if its a caliper problem the piston won't return on its own whether the bleader is opened or not

It could be that a piece of rubber or something is blocking the line maybe try cleaning the line also just because its new doesn't mean its good if the caliper was bad it wouldn't release when you open the bleader

The break lines rust from the inside out stainless or not there's no way to tell by just looking at it the key is when you open the bleeder it goes back in the fluid can't get out of the caliper so the piston stay out its not like there is a spring pushing it back in the hill holder usaly affects both front breaks

Remember fluid going to the breaks is under alot of pressure but the return has no pressure so it just stays in the caliper

Ive had the break lines go bad on several cars and this is exactly what they did if there is a clamp holding the break line to something pull it off as the break line deteriorates it swells just alittle and the clamp dosent exspand so it pinches the line off sometimes you can remove the clamp and get it to work for a while but its gona fail again soon anyway a break line is cheaper than a caliper so try that first

The 4 runner struts only have 4" of traval vs stock 6" ive found that nissan 300zx front struts fit and have 5 3/4" of traval and are the same size as the 2wd stock struts but have a much thicker shaft and because its a performance car there are hundreads of options like coil overs available just about anywhere 300zx struts with stock springs 1 1/2"-2" lift what im running right now add honda strings your looking at around 3-4" of lift if my guestimations are correct

Swap to rear disk and run honda calipers and use the mechanical ebrake on the calipers for your cutting break pulling the front ebreak just alittle dose help alot with front traction ive used it a few times to get out of some realy sticky situations back when i was running open diffs

I want to hold on to my ea82 till i can aford to go electric with the loyale im in the process of building another high output ea82 i also am building a 2000 ej2.2 for the forester its gona get ported and polished also and all the hop ups i can build in to it im just not sold on the ej in a ea bodied car if im gona go a swapin i want to go electric besides im realy enjoying building and breaking and rebuilding my ea82s so as long as i have parts im gona keep building them ill save the ej motors for my 4 ej bodied rigs

There has to be a way to rebuild them or maybe a aftermarket electric pump or something the biggest issue I see is the timing belt pully on the oil pump maybe there's a way to delete the pump pully and use 2 passenger side timing belts so you only need to carry one spare belt hay might even pick up a pony or 2 if there's no load from the oil pump

I am running a snorkel on my ea82 wheeler I had no negative affects from it I have run it with just the stock parts removed but I keeped getting soggy filter that stopped after I put the snorkel on I did gain a bit of performance too and true cold air intake You can avoid soggy filter if you don't cut your fenders and remove the plastic using the stock air box everything works like its saposed to the stock filter set up flows more than enuff air to feed the ea82 no matter how much you hop it up

++ for a snorkel if its a wheeler other wise just open up the stock intake under the fender if your plastic is still all there you could just remove everything under the fender and protect the opening from water flung up from the tires

Now its time to put it back together my parts stash is getting thin I'm gonna have to start steeling parts off my other loyale oh well I guess that's what its there for

I just got home from this trip my bubble gum And duct tape let loose in a few places my poor loyale has no suspetion left the springs are shot and saging bad struts are blown out and have no oil left I was rubbing tires and bottoming out on every little bump broke some axles lost my timing belt in a mud hole at 10pm 20+ miles from the house and had to put it back on laying on my back in the mud yay the temps got down to 1° one night and popped a freeze plug so that was a fun fix I had the usaual flat tires and loose wires all and all just another day in the desert

Theres a set of addaptors on the gl10 in my storage lot i run he payed $500 for the set they have been on that rig for a while he got them off of ebay so there out there he has like 5 extra sets of ej rims with brand new tires thats why he went the 5 lug route personaly i just drill my rims nothing against spacers they have been around for ever and when instaled right they hold up fine most failures are instilation error as long as your hardwere is good they work just fine as for the wheel bearin issue i have 30" tires sticking out about 3 inches on each side of my car covered by tube fenders but my point is after abusing my loyale with huge off set rims big tires wheelin daily drivin salt water dunkin sand running mud rocks my wheel bearings are still good a extra inch isent going to blow your bearings probably wont even shorten the life span thenonly time i evey replaced a bearin was because the hub failed and the bearin siesed on the axle shaft and couldent be removed in one piece

There is a bolt on the bottom of each head that is used as a drain hole to get all the water out of the heads one of mine was cloged with stop leak so i had to poke at it with a screw driver to get it to drain its the lowest point on the heads should be easy to find

Doeh

The 3 that don't move are causing the slight ticking that your hearing because they don't have contact with the cam all the time there's nothing wrong with the lifters but it sounds like you have some ware somewhere

I'm a bit late I've been in the area for a few months I have to leave now sorry I've been working on my house in Johnson valley I won't be back in town for a few months I've got to get back to making my rounds if your still in need in a few months I might be able to help