ferp420

Your best cheapest performance mod is gona be a msd type ignition then you can eficiantly burn fuel then a spacer under the carb will alow the fuel to mix before it turns the corner makin the engine more eficiant porting the manifold will give you more available air when you crack open the throtle makin the manifold longer or shorter with change your powerband longer more low end shorter gives more top end you can build a 200 hp vw motor but you will have to increase the displacement to somethin like 2.1l on a subi you cant replace the pistons and barrels like a vw so your kinda stuck with your displacement give or take a few thousands if your only lookin for %10-%20 increase you can get that through efficiency the inturnal cumbustion engine only runs at what around %60 eficancy so there is wigle room to play with but even better plugs and wires add up in price high octain gas cost a bit more to your gona pay if your gona play the reason behind the whole ej swap is to incress the displacement givening the potential for alot more power and a more efficient set up so we dont have to spend weeks porting and polishings shaving laping and studying i think read every last web page out there on porting and engine performance before i started moding engines not to mention the years of college studying automotive related stuff's and working innthe field with the old timers so to brake itnback down if you want more power ether make the engine more efficiant or stuff fuel and air down its throut with a turbo or supercharger or get a bigger engine you only get the same three options everyone else gets no mater what engine your dealin with

We need a locker for the front the rear already has good options going for it lsd or welded both cheap comparativly and efective the solid axle opens up a whole new world but the front diff we have nothing i guess it to could be welded but thats not realy a option some kind of lsd or locker would be nice up front theres always the transfer case option but thats alot of fab work and probably not gona be streetable after that depending on how good a fabricator you are for $600-$800 i could buy and build a whole new rig weld it up lift it and put tires and rims on it for less im not spending that kind of money on novaltie items for a loyale especialy since the locker would be harder on parts than a lsd so slightly less reliable and considering you kinda have to be stuck or close to for the locker to engage and lock up unless its a air/electric locker your gona lose performance compared to a spool or welded diff so no real benifit to using a way over priced locker on a solid axle rig you cant just pull one axle shaft out for street use thats why there used alot on wheelers that are also used on the street

Ive been on a axle frenzy laitly 5 axles on 3 of my rigs all needed axles at the same time my loyale needs 3 axles i replaced one only 2 left on the loyale and one more on the imp then i can put my axle tools away lol

Its a axle thats what they do its ether to tight or broken a new axle if it was assembled wrong it will be to tight and cause the problem your discribin also old axles the greese gets hard inside the joint and will caused the vibration you discribe or broken parts like broken or cracked cage one of the balls inside could have a inperfection causing it to bind up randomly your discribing the.exsact same problem my imp had i ignored it and took it skiing anyway i ended up changin the axle in the snow at about 5° outside at night in the dark before i could drive home i definitly think you have a F ed axle maybe pull the boot back and clean the joints and regreese them and see also you can inspect the cage and ball bearings while in there but that will void your warenty if its a lifetime warrentied axle but im guessing it will solve your problem as it sounds like a sticky axle the broken axle usaly ends up with axle parts puked up all over the ground

I had lost a rod bearing due to a bad lifter it was a test engine so no big loss but the bad lifter was very noticable while in the car after a minute of runnin the good lifters were rock solid the bad one colapsed when presure was put on it your lifters tjat have a little bit of play is probably were they were running when the car was running the ones that have no movement is probably because they are completely full.and are not compresed at all while at rest in the engine maybe evin have a bit of a gap when the valve springs are not compressed the hydrolic lifter is auto adjusting if it normaly rides at 3/4 of its through it will have a 1/4 of its through as play when out of the car and not under presure if it rides half way in its travel then you would get half the play or 7/8 traval you only get a 1/8 of slop if there is a slight gap between the lifter and cam there would be no slop at all because the lifter is at 100% of its lift using all its traval a bad lifter dosent pump up and wont hold pressure so it would have full traval or be all slop it sounds like all.of yours are good if you get it all back together and run it till.you have oil presure and then if you can move any of the valves / lifters by hand then there bad i hope all that makes sense

Dont be sorry your the man you have a kick a$$ set up that most people would be jealous of for sure and who would know better than you guys who have done it and redone it till you got it im just guessin but in general long arms = long traval and short arms = short traval if you want more traval get longer arms the inverted strut are definitly the way to go but not cheap some custom cups and purches and its on but on to what 2 extra inches not worth it unless your gona race it weld up the rear end and call it a day forget about articulation your roo will never be a rock crawler with out a but load of work and money

If your motor mounts are realy worn out or broken the motor can twist lifting one side of the motor and transmission and will bind a cv joint at best if it dosent rip it out of the cup completely

The outbacks are alot wider than the ea bodied cars so the links are even shorter thats why im guessing the ea82 arms are only good for around 8" of traval

I think they suffer from the same quality control issues the other axles have mine was greese less when i got it again and was clicking out of the box again but they still have the lifetime warrenty so its not a huge risk if there only as good or last as long as the other style there still a very easy install so im sold even if i have to drop the crossmember a bit more to make them clear

Link to my manifold thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150643-intake-and-throtle-body-spacers/

I modified my intake on my ea82 i used spacers under the manifold to raise it up a inch then i added a spacer under the throtle body so the fuel had a chance to mix before turnin a hard corner i opened up the intake the best i could portin both ends leaing it ruff inside if its to smooth the fuel will colect on the walls of the manifold i blocked off coolant flow to the throtle body but not the manifold if the manifold is to cold the fuel wont mix well on a multi port injection setup like the ej motors have it dosent mater because the fuel is injectwd at the head with single port or a carb the key is keepin the fuel suspended in the air till it hits the combustion chamber the more efficiant you can do that the more power you will make There are gains to be had with the intake but unless the rest of the system isent upgraded you wont see any gains so after you upgrade the intake upgrade the ignition then port the heads and fab up a custom exhaust no one mod will make a big difference but all the mods together add up to about 25% more usable power by just getting the air in and out more efficiently and burning the fuel all the way

You got me thinking about this last night and i had some ideas use hyme joints on both ends of a rod conect one end directly to the lower ball joint and other to the cross member that would give camber adjustment to the system same on the radius rods i found some fox coilovers that would bolt to our top hats and on the bottom fabricate a base and spring perch to fit out ea knuckles and bolt the shaft in to that basicly inverting the shock the shocks i looked at had around 10" of traval for alittle over $300 a piece i also looked at rancho 9000s basicly the same but they only have a 5/8 shaft there only 110 each and would need to fab up a top mount im sure i could do it but again the biggest gain would be 4" of traval and most of that would be on the droop side and i dought any set up is gona reach the full 10" of traval but i could be wrong so this set up would cost around im guessing 500 to 1000 for miniscule gains you would be better off puting a solid axle in the rear way more articulation for the money spent and as a bonus you would have locker opptions and more parts availability and would increse the durability of the rig over all

If your lifting over 2" then you drop the crosmember to address those issues the stock control arms are short and will be the biggest limiting factor it wheel traval they swing in a ark the longer the arm the less of a ark in there line of traval the less of a ark you get the less stress on the componits and less binding stock arms travaling 6" moves the top or bottom of the tire in and out around 2" through out its swing thats where your binding come from in the stock set up longer arms reduce the stress because the same 6" of travel will have less in and out movement and your tire will traval in a straighter line and have less bump steer

Just use one of the trees as a pivit point lol ohh But then you need body armor tube fenders and sliders they dont play well with light weight

Rear stear is just something else to go wrong even the rock crawlers are stearing away from it better off with cutting breaks if your not locked and using front dig and besides that how sharp do you want to turn anyway

There just isent any traval to be gained in the stock set up every thing is so short unless your going all custom your just chasing your tail you might gain an extra inch at best the selling point of those axles is that the joints are stronger 6 ball instead of 3 on the trans side and beafy slip yoke and something like 45* working angle or something crazy so if you did build a crazy custom set up they will work great and provide the extra traval if needed

Those are nice but they hit the crossmeber in lifted rigs because their so big around

I still say go 4"

Did you get the off set on that lift block its hard to tell but I don't see any there should be around 15-18* of off set to keep the camber right

Just opening up the hole to anything bigger than 1" will help I would keep the stock air box and plumbing the more available air the better the throttle responce will be after that everything is more than adiquate for this little motors next restriction is after the throttle body the sharp 90 the air has to make before it can mix with the fuel all long before the valves or flow through the heads becomes a issue

The filter isent the point of the restriction its the air water separator under the fender it only has a 1" or so opening to let air in

There's only a couple of hundreds pounds difference mostly motor weight the impreza only weighs 2700-2800 pound a loyale is around 2500 mine weighs more because of the tube bumpers and other parts add the winch high lift I'm over 3k

I cut the duel range lever off and relocated and reshaped the lever

The ea82 can make good low end power if your willing to put in the work switching back and forth between my ea82m and my 2000 impreza with the ej2.2 witch has more power than the older 2.2s there isent that much difference in fact I'm guessing if the impreza had 30" tires the difrerance wouldent be noticeable the ej is a much better engine hands down but the ea82 can make good usable torque and seem to lug down way less than the ej engines i have 2 ej2.5 powered rigs to and there bottom end power is a joke so much that I did a 2.2 swap and tossed the 2.5 on my forester but off road i still prefer a high compresion ea82

Go to a 4" lift with 235/75/15 or 30" tires and redrill the hubs for 6 lug ej if you must but that little ea82 has its moments like for instance throughing a timing belt in the middle of the desert in the middle of the night in the middle of a mud hole and slip the belt back on and drive a hour back to the house its the little things that make the ea82 what it is