ferp420

I think the codes on a ea82 are only usefull if it isent running I do my diagnoses as if I was working on a vw bug or something always start simple air fuel and spark my ea82m through all those codes and more and still ran great when I get back up that way I'll dig out my extra parts and we can swap some stuff around but honestly if its just the ruff starting I don't think its a sensor problem

The only time I've had a po30? Code and not had it be the coil was oil in the spark plug tubes I changed the seals on the valve cover and it stoped check your plug wires is there oil on the end that goes in to the cylinders use a light mist of water under the hood while its running at night and look for spark leaks other than that dielectric grease all your electrical conectors and cross your fingers

I have no idea how the hardened steal valve seat could crack but it definitely looks cracked I would think the valve would give up first good luck with this

I would run it all aluminum heads crack as long as it isent cracked in to a water port or goes past the valve seat into the port on the other side of the valve seat I would say it's fine the exhaust side looks more like a casting flaw then a crack I would smooth everything out in there while its apart but that's just me On a second look is the valve seat cracked too if so its new head time or a machine shop could possibly fix it

Blow by might be a issue though with that pitting and 15lbs of boost just watch for oil in the intake

It looks like it took a lot of heat my thinking is the exspantion and contraction caused the gap the sleaves seal against the head iirc I'm sure on its fine though as long as the cylinders are still mostly round I dought you would have a problem

One issues i did run in to because these axles are so much bigger to accommodate them slip yoke that they hit the crossmeber at full drop I haven't it figure out the best way to fix it yet I'll probably just drop the crossmeber another 1/2" or so

I've found that the after market axle makers skimp on the greese I've gotten a few with no greese at all I even sent pictures to the manufacturer and orealys that sold them I don't think anything was done about it lol but if you greese them your self they last a lot longer I was getting about 3 months out of my axles till I figured out they needed more greese the I got 2 years out of one and the other is still going I'm now trying the HD axles maybe they will be better

I wish I could get ones like this for the rear

Its in storage with his other rigs he can't find anyone one to work on it lol and I've been on the road for way to long some day I'll go home and get to it

I couldn't resist I bought one I can't speak about durability yet but I can say it was the easyest axle swap ever the extra through in the shaft make it easy to install just compress the joint and there's more than snuff room to get it on to the stub I dident even have the right tools I had to use a punch to loosen and tighten the castle but and was done in about 30 min so even if they don't last any longer the ease of swaping them is worth the extra few dollars

My guess is the coil but you already changed that but I say it sounds like the coil was it changed with a new one or one off another engine

That would be pretty amazing if that was from the water pump to get all the way over there with out getting every other part of the engine wet is nearly impossible I second the intake or thermostat housing leak down the plug drain holes

If you can mist a little fuel down the throttle body it will tell you if your lacking fuel at start up also if you can do a compression check it was a carbed engine originally so its gonna have lower compression than a spfi but it a good thing to check out also do your compression test twice once normal then squirt some wd40 down the plug hole and try again it shouldn't make a difference but if it dose raise the compression than your rings are shot other than that I can't think of anything

Some times a second set of eyes helps I'm lookin forward to hitting some trails when I get back up that way if there's anything left of my rig good luck with it

Yay triple post

Double post

I saw the heavy duty ones also and was woundering the same thing my last axles I rebuilt them right out of the box with synthetic grease and silicone boots one died after 2 years and it was bad out of the box I just dident want to wait for a 4th axle to come In so I rebuilt it myself and the other is still on the car going strong the stock boots would were through the rubber in a few months they don't like mud and sand but the silicone boots are holding up great I might even reuse them I like the sound of HD though and with the silicone boots they might even last a while

Anyone other spectators going this year I'm packing up and leaving in the morning little blue is duck taped and chewing gummed together still running rwd I'll get a new CV axle when I get down there

Make a mark on the distributer for referance Rotate the distributer clockwise about 2-3° or 1\8" then try to start it repete till it starts good it takes a bit of work but its free and dosent need any tools other than a 10mm if it dosent turn if its all the way to the right you might have to pull the dissy and replace it a tooth off if that doesn't help put it back on your mark or if you have a timing light use it and set the timing you probably have other issues contributing to your no start issue I'm guessing some fuel system cleaner would help maybe replace the plugs I still think timing is the root of your problem

91 Loyale 5" front 3" rear all home\hand made 04 Lego 2 1\4" Others but not running at the moment Pics are all over the site already why add more

With out the sway bar on the street my front tire would come off the ground and slow me down on hard high speed turns I personaly have never noticed any difference off road with or with out it its personal preference I'm just saying you don't need to remove it to do the lift unless you want to

Sounds like the timing is a little off maybe the dissy is sticky from sitting the advance might be stuck if its stuck some wd40 should loosen it up I'm pretty sure the ea82 still uses vacume advance mechinisum but I just can't remember off the top of my head

It sounds like timing dose it run OK when warm try turning the distributer if it's loose that's the problem also the advance mechanisum might be stuck I think the temp sensor would only cause a problem when its warm