ferp420

My skid plate covers the y pipe there's almost no way I could hit it

try puting a little presure on see if the noise goes away my outback did that i ended up using a motorcycle hand grip wedged between the lever and bellhousing to keep just a little bit of presure on the fork and bearing and the noise went away if its hitting then skiping then catching again it would cause a vibration of somesort but mostly just makes noise a slightly bent clutch fork could cause that most often its just a dirty bearing

Im running 2" electrical conduit from the y back it seems to be holding up well i ran it under the drive shaft tunnel so when it dose take a hit it has some where to go and dosent get pinched i know its hit the drive shaft a few times cause i can see where it rubbed on bith the exaust and shaft these more than enuff room in the tunnel for both of them with out bending i dont run it tight in the tunnel though i dont want to F up my ujoints and carrier bearings from the heat i always wanted to make a set of sliders or sub frame and run my exhaust though it maybe the next project lol

Sounds like a through out bearing to me not a big deal unill it starts squealing they usaly hold till you replace the clutch usaly

Most of that sounds racecarish maybe instead of a motor swap change to 444 gears from a forester or get a duel range ej box or both Im thinking ditch the stock gages and use a tablet or two linked in to the onboard computer to monitor the systems and GPS speedometer that way you could set alarms for certain systems

I leave my keys in the ignition I always have even when I lived in La my locks are freezing up its been so long since I used them that's my security system its worked for me for 30+ years even leaving my brand new truck with the windows open and keys in the ignition in down town LA for 3 weeks while I went sailing I did have a few beer cans inside though

One thing I've learned with modding my ea82 Is they don't like it when you add extra fuel I don't know if the ea81 is the same but I'm guessing it is

I made flaired fiberglass fender panels for my ea82 wagon but never finnished them I went with steel flairs instead but fiberglass is easy to work with if your looking for stock pieces just cover the area you want to reproduce with seran wrap and glass over it make it real thick and work it in to the corners and use that as a mold then you can make fenders all day long

Lots of race cars are just cars when my family was racing we had 2 of each car they raced 2 510s and 2 280zs one street rig one race rig and there factory race cars had at least 2 cars on the trailer one for on site practice and one identical to race and they gave us one to drive on the street when Mitsubishi came out with the starion we had a fleet of those my mom would take them out and blow the motors for fun they just gave us a new one till we had enuff My truck has Cruz control and ac and I have no reason to stop at the scales and I use my car hauler a lot so it just makes more sence to me to tow my roo I don't race at all and its street legal but I'm still gonna tow it out to go wheeling if I'm any distance from home it just gives me more confidence when I'm wheeling my last big trip i blew 2 tires and poped a strut and spun a rod bearing out playing with the jeeps just an average day in the desert for me

Ok maybe just a average day in the desert for me blowing tires and bending stuff is par for the course lol I remember one year the drivers pushing each others cars up the hill because the snow was so bad I was waiting in the pits for my dad they pulled in at 2am re atatched the trunk and off they went that was some 30 some odd years ago though Basicly I'm my opinion all it needs to be a real race car is to use it just for racing build another rig for trail riding /prerunning testing you want your race rig to be tip top shape you don't want to beat it up on the trails or on the street they become unreliable and you time out during the races OK that might not have a whole lot to do with the time but theory holds strong maybe build a new one just for racing and use this one as a trail rig down side is you need a trailer too bad you didn't get any woops though there a lot of fun lol

Is there a good ground from the bat to the body to the motor to bat to motor to body if you loose one of those grounds everything goes haywire maybe the previous owner took one off or broke it and didn't hook it back up when he changed the battery its just so easy to over look

So are you ready to make it a full race car yet or is it gonna be stuck in limbo for ever lol good job finnishing the course that alone is amazing how where the woops lol did you figure out what you need to do to finish next year over all sounds like a average day in the desert

I don't know how useful it would be on a stock rig unless you live in the mountains or tow a lot or something there would hqve to be a reason to do it there Isent much gain up top where the stock set up is designed to Run at its a great option for wheelers or maybe going na on a turbo rig because of the gearing stock gearing I think would just spin the tires ALSO consider the decrease in reliability its now pownding the lower end instead is slowly ramping up the power over the rpm range I don't know how long a strong lower end would hold up but my old short block lasted around 20000 miles I probably could have doubled it if I used good lifters I'm guessing it will hold up a good 80-100k with a fresh bottom end and solid valve train that's still a lot of miles but considering these run around 300k and up that's a huge decrease in expected life span at best would I do it again hay yes I am

There's a guy on the board machinesit or something like that he makes some awesome spacers they put mine to shame he was rerouting his coolant manifold to get the heat out of the intake thats a great idea also probably work even better I carved mine out of a solid piece of aluminum with hand tools and a drill press so there not real pretty here's a link to the build thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150643-intake-and-throtle-body-spacers/

That motor was a lumpy motor I could feel each cylender hit till around 2k rpm all the work I did was bolt on except for porting the heads I was just testing some theories and it worked out well I didn't expect it to last as long as it did I never got it to run just right probably the bad lifter and the computer has a hard time dealing with the mods the top end dident see any gains though so I dought the HP went up much but the available torque was amazing and the power band was smooth and constant the stock set up seems to have a anomalie around 4500 where the power drops off then picks up again it kinda feels like a automatic shifting every ea82 I've driven has done it to some exstent

It had a collapsed lifter for a while I tried to fix it a few times but never replaced it the tick of death wasn't that bad until it was close to the end I do think it contributed to the rod bearing failure but that alone wouldn't have caused it in my opinion I think it was the fact that I over loaded over luged and overluged it 1000 rpms foot to the floor climbing or towing will kill any motor the fact that this little e82 was able to take the abuse so long is a testament to how well it was designed in contrast my ford ranger ate its rod bearings after towing a van for 400 miles it had a 2.4 in it a $12 fix at that time lol and a lot of labor but hay my point being the ea82 is a way better motor I was told by a engineer that the bearings were to small and to fix the issue I could run 302 bearings with a little file or machine work but I never got there I just used the $12 bearing set from Napa this time when I'm rebuild my ea82 I'm gonna use the best of what I have and get new parts I'm also in the middle of rebuilding my 2.2 I used for my 2.2 forester swap I'm thinking maybe junk the forester rob the parts to lift the impressa and the motor for my loyale and I've got a few other projects I could use the parts on

I've had good luck modding the ea82 based on driving the ea82t and the impreza with the 2.2 I'm wondering if the ej22 had 30" tires if they would be closer matched I'm not sure if the HP went up a hole lot but its got mad torque most of the way through the powerband for my version of the ultamite ea82 i started at the begining remove the stock water separator /snorkel it only has a 1" or so opening then there needs to be more room for the air and fuel to mix before it turns the corner I used a 1" piece of aluminum and coned it out around a inch between the throttle body and the manifold then opened the manifold to match I ported the manifold as far as I could I removed the lip that creates the swirl and made it tumble the air why would swirl the air and then separate it a few mm later I added 1" spacers between the manifold and I he heads so it would have a larger volume of premixed air and fuel available when the throttle opens then I ported the heads did the valves opened up!the exhaust ports and polished them i didn't do a very good job on the polishing though and then I ground down the weld on the inside of the exhaust manifold the weld was around 1\4 all the way around its not a ej2.2 but I would say its more than a ej18 one of the lifter took a dump and next thing the rod bearing on that cylinder took a dump so its getting a rebuild right now but I spent around $100 total on the first build this time I'm gonna go all the way and get a rering kit and new lifters I figure I'll go with the ej2.2 swap after that but I'm just not ready to give up on the little ea82 just yet

Sounds like a worn cv joint

I finally got the motor out and tore i down the #2 lost its rod bearing and was smacking the head it even left a nifty imprint on the head in carbon from the letters stamped in the piston lol everything else looks good I hope I can save the block the cylinders look great with no signs of ovaling I'm sure everything inside it is toast but I could probly rebuild it with new/used internals and be just fine I probably just rob a piston and rod and a crank from another motor and get a rering kit the loyale is back up and running with its original motor and just in time to smog it lol it runs great but compared to the ea82x torque monster its a dog I'll at the spacers and matching manifold to the stock motor after smog and see if I got the torque back or if I was getting power from the ported and polished heads or a combo of every thing

I dont remeber grinding anything when i installed my lsd in my 3.9 housing it droped right in also the datsuns uses the same rear diff and lsd on some of there cars and there are other less acceptable opions like a phantom grip that might slow down the slip but will eat your diff in time and then theres the good old lincoln locker if you dont need 4wd on a regular basis and dont mind pulling a axle my one question is why do you want a lsd whats your intended use

When's the race Never mind I looked it up next week wow good luck

Ha ha sweet

The stock air snorkel/water seperator in the fender on the ea82 is very restrictive removing it or opening it up helps it breath in the lower rpm range Cdi ignitions are amazing to get a complete efi iant fuel burn there I sent any way to get alot more power but you can however play with the powerband to get more drivability with the power it dose have if you want real power swap in a ej motor or spend massive amounts of time and or money just to have 10-20 more power than a stock ea motor and still be 15-20 less hp than a ej 2.2

The Nissan strut is twice as thick as the ea82 strut where the ea82 kyb strut bent and the Nissan strut has a reinforced spring perch also and is the same size as the 2wd ea82 rear strut my stock spring fit perfect on the Nissan strut the Nissan spring is a lot bigger on the top so it can't be used but I bet Honda springs would work just fine there are a lot more options for the Nissan 300zx than for the Subaru sorry if I mixed it up the Nissan strut is a little bit beefier all around and has 5.55 inch of travel not to bad but the struts i got are leaking so I'll have to get new ones

I scored a factory lsd at the junk yard there out there you just have to get lucky looking a lot helps