ferp420

So the Nissan 300zx front strut was a direct bolt on to the rear I did use the subaru bushings on the bottom and top hat on the top and the Subaru spring its the same size as the front wheel drive ea82 rear strut i don't know if the struts I got are any good but there a great alturnitive to the fwd for lifting a 4x4 the part there my old strut bent is almost twice as thick and uses a larger nut and the spring seat is welded on well see how they hold up

I had a bad head gasket that blew out the compression ring on first fire up made a ticking noise and still had 140 psi on the compression tester others where right about 180psi I've also had a intake gasket go bad and that side of the motor stopped getting fuel no vacume and today when I was buttoning up my swap i found a loose vacume line that caused a very similar issue but to be honest it will run and drive even idle on 3 cylinders they will even run on 2 so you have another problem probabaly a few compounding maybe try some starting fluid if it smooths out than it could be a carb issue if not than look for vacume leaks don't use ether to check for vacume leaks though if there is any spark jump its over its probably something very simple the wires are in the wrong order Or in the right order but in the wrong spot on the cap witch would cause the plug to fire while the valve is open and cause your ticking

heres a link to the vid of me towing the doner on the trailer up the driveway

i finaly got a motor back in my loyle its the original motor out of the car i swaped it out for my performance build that spun a bearing like they say dont beef the top end with out doing the bottom end lol any way this motor was in a car i sold and was then sold to some one else who gave it back to me so i got my cars original motor back its back in the car its running like a top but its such a dog its bearly climbing the hill in the driveway on its own my built motor even onits last leg pulled the doner loyale and the double axle car hauler up the same driveway there is a huge differance in the low end torque hopefully ill be able to get some test runs on it before i swap the custom intake in and see how much of what i was geting was from the intake and how much was from the porting and well trying to polish the heads but right now im dieing to get it out on the trails hopefully this weekend ill get it out for a shake down run i still have to repair the damage from johnson valley i have a set of nissan 300zx front struts im gona try to fit on the back there beefy and look like they have the same amount of traval as stock so its worth a shot

what was the compresion on the other cylinders any back fireing are you sure you using the right timing marks its posable your plug is fireing while the valve is still open the timing light only gives you # 1 timing or what ever cylinder its hooked to recheck top dead center and confirm you rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire then rework your wires to match your fireing order dosent hurt to double check the simple stuff its always the simple little stuff that gets me

Stoked !

based on what you sead im still thinking a valve is not closing maybe one of the pushrods is the wrong size or the valves arent adjusted right or a bad hydrolic lifter maybe spinning the push rod while the valve is closed is a quick easy test to see if the valves are close enuff to run ive been stumped before only to have some one else glance at it for a second and say theres the problem maybe a fresh set of eyes would help

a vacume leak on the intake would cause one cylinder not to fire right a intake gasket would do that and so would a vacume line being off maybe a bad seal on the vacume break booster but dosent exsplain the ticking

i love my vdubs ive got a 73 campmobile and a 71 convertable bug both were very reliable when i daily drove them there parked now for no other reason other than i just stoped driving them the weber swap stops the endless duel carb adjusting but the fuel economy sucks big time round ones i want to ej swap both of them some day bit for now there just sittin

Can you spin the push rods while the valve is closed sorry I'm guessing here I'm going back to my vw days its been almost 20 years since I had a ea81 what did you do to it during the reseal rebuild how deep did you go head gaskets rings ?? Because you say the clicking goes away when you pull the plug wire it would make sense that noise is ether spark jump or external loss of compression ether a valve or a bad gasket

It could be a failed head gasket to I've had a brand new gasket blow out the side I have no idea why but it also made a clicking like sound

Are your lifters solid or hydrolic are the push rods seated right the clicking could be a valve stuck open when the cylinder fires or spark jumping

Check your ground wires from the motor to the body and body to battery and motor to battery you can use jumper cables for a quick test hook both leads on one end to the block and one to battery - and other to the body see if it helps I had lost a ground out wheelin and it acked like that i over looked it so many times I even grabbed my extra ecu and dissy luckily I found the ground before I tore in to it

My first guess would be a distributer cap but your car dosent have a distributer check the plug wires for shorting out in the dark but more than likely its the coil pack look for spark jump at the coil pack while its dark while looking at the wires use dielectric greese on the connections I've gone through at least 3 coils on my 98 outback and 2 on my imp sometimes it through a miss fire code sometimes it doesn't

Maybe the cap is on backwards or the wires are on wrong just guessing

how far out are you from lucern valley ive got a place but to its definitly not a safe place

it kinda sounds like the distributer is 180° out

gaskets are easy to make you can buy gasket paper but thin cardboard doses just as good if your good with sissors i use lined paper to make a rubbing then transfer it to the gasket material and i use alittle layer of silicon just to seal any poors i hate buying gaskets ive been making all mine out of copper because its free my freind owns a sheet metel shop and has alot of waste copper i know its exspensive if you have to buy it

im interested in this too the hydrolic lifters rob power and mileage because there resitance from the constant contact friction and drag but there very reliable you shouldent have to do anything to them ever in theory solid lifter have to be adjusted regulerly i know my 2000 impreza has solid lifters so subaru ditched the hydro lifters so im guessing the advantages of solid lifters out ways the added maintinace needed to keep them runnng i would love to run solid lifters in my ea82 but i just cant figure out how to adjust the valves maybe just use different size shims maybe some one can or already dose make a kit but ive never seen any

back in the day before beadlock became populor we used tire black rubber glue to glue the tires on to the rim so we could run extreme low tire presure it worked realy well and is a realy cheap every little bit helps

oh and the msd or multi spark distrabustion unit is not a coil its a electronic ignition distrabution box you need to use your stock coil and stock distributer set ups it goes inline with your stock electronics and trigers the coil to fire multiple times giving a more complete burn

thats a great carb exstremely reliable way better than any duel carb set up thats what im running on my vw bus it wont be much more power than stock though and less than fuel injection swap but combined with other mods it could do the trick with such low hp engine even 5hp would be a noticeable improvement and shouldent be hard to get new plugs a nice air filter and maybe a glasspack or performance muffler use senthetic oils in the trans and diff fresh bearing grease all the little stuff adds up high octain gas and the msd ignition lets you squese more timing out of it for alittle more kick i dont think there is alot more peak power to be gained but you can make more power sooner so its more drivable

since im geting real far out there drag the 300zx out mount some 40s on the rear and set up a drag racing scene i wounder how long my neghbor uncle same would let me have a full scale drag racing scene set up on there land lol

ok ive got a outhere idea mount the engine so the.entire intake and valve covers are sticking out the hood and use some kind if gear or belt to drive the trans just so it moves on its own and rig up some kind of fake blower asembaly stick some pipes out the hood damb it would be a work. of art probly wouldent move but would look cool

considering it would never be driven on the street wait isent a issue and the ford 260 v8 is smaller than the gm v6 and lighter and i have one just sitting it would be cool to have it sitting in the engine bay of a loyale insted of on the ground i can picture a supercharger sticking up over the roof of the loyale lol then hitting the gas and watching the whole body twist that would have to be one of the coolest driveway ornamints around even if it isent hooked up