ferp420

i have 3 fuel injected ea82 intakes and they all have a cut out for the rubber oring gasket

i lived in a vw bus for about 5 years before that a 25' sailboat moored out a 1/4 mile off shore i havent lived in a house since high school i got tierd of that life a few months ago i bought 2.5 acers with a mobile home on it inside of a ohv park its not much but i own it outright some day i might actualy live there the vw is being handed down to my daughter who wants to live in it and traval across the country

there space for the oring on the ea82 also it gets tight and seals the hole with out even screwing the housing down it fits so tight the water never even gets to the area that the gasket seals way less chance for a leak the gasket is old junk im trying to get away from cardboard or composit gaskits i make most of mine myself out of copper but the rubber o ring rocks and seals way better if it wasent better then why would they use it on the ej motors and the best part is theres no cleaning up old silicone with a razor blade every time its changed

not mine but i did the lift on the murph its sittin on 225/45/17 with a 2" for now lift up front and honda springs in the rear here he is chillin with marbles the little wagon sits almost as high the truck

ive used both and i like the oring style better my self i think different year ea82s have a different gasket styles they both work though

my friend asked me to post up some updates on the murph we pick him up drug him home on the trailer and stashed it for a bit then busted it out with some new axles then made a test run of around 500 miles to tahoe and back for some fun in the snow but i got him in my shop now the spare motor was litteraly drop on the door step of equalibrium tuneing i did say rol was crazy dident i for a complete ground up rebuild we droped it at 6 am on there front door lol they had to move it to open the door and then split and he dident say anything to them about it just droped it and split they looked at the cammera and called a few days latter lol there used to it with him though they built 3 cars for him already so they ant trippin any more the 3" lift kit goes in today he got the 5lug addaptors off of ebay they cost more than the car did but its sitting on 17" forseter rims righ now but cant drive it the fronts are hitting we put the original hood back on im gona try and replace the hood scoop on the extra hood its already rusting here in the coastal air and repaint all ive had the chance to drive it a bit its a fun little rig im realy getting a kick out of driving a mostly stock ea82 and having the turbo just kicks it my wacked out n/a ea82 still outpulls it though even with 30" tires im still kicken murphys butt not for long though ill bet there will be a $10k ea82t sitting in murphs engine bay by this time next year yes its crazy but hay thats what rol wants hes got the duel range in waiting the new struts are on there way and is gona get a new exhaust here when theres time and i bet hes already looking for a bigger turbo and a lsd this is his fun run beater roo he has 5 other roos he has 3 he drives the outback xt a lego gt and a 2015 wrx his probly has a 100k raped up in those 3 cars his wife drives the crosstreck and his daughter drives the old lego gt so murphys the beater and will probly get driven more miles than the rest put together lol ill update from time to time as the work continues

look for the napkin there is a picture of it some where on this forum it has all the info you need and a simple drawing of a diy 2" lift kit costs about $5 and strong enuff to hold up and can be built with simple hand tools hack saw and a drill any bigger than 2" of lift your more than likely spending some money

my 3k in sigle line pull wouldent pull my loyale out by it self when i wedged it in to some rocks i had to use the high lift to un wedge it then it pulled it off the rock i was high centered on the only down side is the cheap atv winches have a shorter duty cycle no big deal unless your winching up alot of long hills a 4k might have been enuff to move the rock too doubld up it should do anything your little car will ask of it or pull the car apart while trying but i wouldent reliey totaly on the winch a good jack and a strap or chain and a shovel work wounders

your stock bumper mounts should hold up to just about anything you through at it but i also conect my bumpers to the engine crossmeber it protects the oil pan and stops the bumper from twisting from the winch pulling on it some one also says to run the mounts long and add a extra bolt or 2 i use 1/2" flat stock to mount my bumpers to the body my first bumper was very thin gage and never gave me any trouble while winching witb a 3000lb winch when i upgraded my bumper i upgraded my winch

those look awsome that tstat housing is amazing so is it on the car yet did you have to make any othe mods to the intake manifold to get the brackets and whatnots to fit what about carbarator mods did you have to change the jetting at all any flat spots or performance gains are you planning any other performance mods i think this is a great mod u could also use some kind of plastic spacer between the spacers and the intake manifold to further reduce heat transfer through the intake like used on the ej motors since your seperating the air and water anyway

seeing as how its a exauhst valve my guess would be running hard uphill full out under a slight lean running condition ether or or both would couse localized heat in the exaust hot enuff to drop a seat im also guessing thats a driver side head that gets slightly less coolant flow but im just guessing

lol no thank you i have enuff trouble with the women in my life to deal with anyone elses you asked if it could be done yes it can but results will very you could also use a barbaque or a fire place or fire pit or what ever it just needs to heat the head evenly but i dont think its worth the effert

ouch you could try heating up the head in the oven and then keeping it hot with a torch while you atempt to reseat the valve seat you would also need to freeze the valve seat before trying you want the aluminum to be exspanded as much as possable and the seat as small as it can get so you dont enlarge the hole it should almost drop in with just a light tap on he seat you would need to work fast to keep the hot parts hot and the cold part cold the problem would be geting the seat true enuff for the valve to seat unless you have a valve grinding tool and realy like laping valves and after all that the chances of it staying in place arent all that great unless your in a pinch and realy need the car up and running i would get a new head or send it out and have some one who dose that kind of stuff fix it for you the one time i had i happen to me on my vw bus i replaced the head and had it machined to match the other one it was cheap back i the day good luck

i think ram engines makes them or used to there for the ea81 but should work just fine for a ea82 i made my own but i dident seperate the coolant though i did block off the coolant flow the throtle body i also added a spacer under my throtle body but i also have a 3" body lift so i have the room to play under the hood i think it adds a good amount of power and torque but i did alot of other mods when i my spacers so who knows ware the power came from

my laitist fup i was chasing my tick of death i found silicone in the oil feed hole for the cam tower well i was all happy and got it all cleaned up put back together one of the lifters was off it pushed on the valve retainer till the retainers fell out and the valve bounced around and hit the piston i dont think there was any major damage but after i fixed the valve and spring retainers i seem to have a head gasket leak so now i get to pull the head again and replace a gasket the up side is i already have the gasket because i replaced the otherside already and i like that gasket better so now ill have matching headgaskets lol ill check the valve to make sure it isent bent before i put it back together i realy shouldent work on anything when im tiered i dont function when im tiered

if you have the time porting is fun and easy and its a good base for all future mods but the ignition upgrade was huge for me i could pull hills at 55 insted of 45 and i could do second gear starts again over drive was also usable again the bigger tire took alot oUt of the little ea82 there easy to hook in to the stock wireing i dident have to mod my stock wirering at all and im still running my stock coil they won give you more power just make use of every last bit of power you should have look on ebay i bet you could find one for under $50

start with a good tune up plugs wires cap rotor timing than if you want to go crazy port the heads intake manifold and make sure theres mo ruff welds or obstructions in the exhaust and the one best mod i ever did to my ea82 was multi spark ignition box like a msd or a procomp mallory or what ever brand you like my ignition box was $100 old stock new in box i got the procomp becaus well it was $100 there alittle cheaper now that most cars dont or cant make use of one of these units from what ive been told herd and or read cams wont help much just move the powerband around porting heads your self takes alot of practice and patiance and you wont see much if any gains unless there are alot of other mods to go with it im running 30s on my ea82 and with all the mods im almost equil to my 2.2 impreza but uses almost twice the gas but then again the ea82 is lifted hacked up and tubed out with big tires

sounds like a bad cv axle or a u joint causing the vibration becaus its worse under load than when coasting the binding is nornal when turning on pavement but shouldent be a problem on dirt if its binding in a straight line or on the dirt then some one might have swaped a rear diff with a different gear ratio start simple and work up from there check your drive shaft and cv joints for play first then test 4wd in the dirt see if it still binds up as for the ej swap theres a whole section on it but ive never done it so good luck with it

i replaced the boot and repacked the new axles i got from oriely there holding up real good so far they where clicking in the right out of the box in the store when i took the original crapy rubber boots off there was no greese in the cv joint i packed them and added silicone boots all good now for over a year with a 3" body lift and 2" suspention lift