ferp420

the missing freeze plug more than likly rusted away shouldent be to hard to do in the car but definitly easyer if you pull the motor just make sure the old plug is completly gone before you try to put the new one in

most engine oil stop leak works by penitrating the seal causing it to exspand witch in turn weekens the entire seal also it dosent just weeken the one leaking seal it ruins all the seals that it comes in contact with so you would need to replace every seal gasket and oring instead of just the rear main seal no big deal if your gona replace or rebuild anyway but if you want your motor to last as is dont use engine oil stop leak

04 lego on outback front strut lift+1/2" spacers and 2 1/4" rear lift blocks before after still needs bigger tires and my daily beater/bomber 5" front 3.5" rear

i have to push my trip back a few weeks between buying a house and getting drug in to a job kicking and screeming im a busy boy this week i get to spend in johnson valley at my new house/shop and next week i get to go work in tahoe on the plus side i did pick up a f250 turdbo diesel for a tow / work rig and i got my oil leaks stoped i couldent get the oil presure to come up but atleast its not knocking anymore and i get a place in tahoe to park my tow rig and my broken junk if need be and my new car hauler trailer is almost done so hopefully i get to make the run in a few weeks before the snow hots heavy

thank you for your offer i think mine fits my needs better though

im sure you factored in the fact that the first 3" of the factory bumper are plastic and foam and have no real wait to speek of when you did your math i wont tell your hilocopter buddys if you dident and im sure you fixed those bolts before you welded it all together or its gona be real hard to remove from the car with out cutting something and at only 8 lbs over stock you wont notice any difference its just that it looks alot heavyer and it looks bigger than 1/4 stock it looks almost the same thickness as the bolts welded in to it the box tube in that spot makes getting to the nuts vary hard unless the nuts are welded in nuts not bolts c channel or flat stock works better in my oppinion and how much dose the licsence plate reciver wheigh what anothe 1-2lbs so maybe 10 lbs overstock out in front of the wheels still probly not noticable it looks alot heavyer than your sayin but the camera can do that sometimes not tryin to take away from anything you did a awsome job i might even steal that side plate idea some time i just think your fudgin the #s alittle

looks great but way over kill in my opinion it dosent need to be that heavy the body isent strong enuff to justify that kind of steal and thats alot of wait out in front of your wheels your gona loose alittle power and economy and handeling but if your gona tie the front bumper to the rear bumper it wouls make a hell of a sub frame then ej it upgrade your springs/struts and wheel it it would be sweet but if nothing else it will ride nice and smooth as it is and it looks good home made stuff is always cooler than bought stuff the license plate reciver is nice to i have a big magnet on mine so when i have my winch or hitch on the car i can just stick my license plate to any metal part on the car and it stays

you can drop the crossmember 1/2" with out doing anything else just some washers it will help alittle

the stearing wheel locks dont work at all they bend in the middle with very little force i had a employer that lost the keys to there club brand wheel lock i walked back to the truck 30 seconds later with the bent club in hand i dont think they liked that though i dident have a job the next day oh well

i use it on all my home made copper gaskets and i used it on my headgaskes for my diesel i cant off th top of my head rember if i used it on my ea82 though ill have to go back and look at the pics but its great stuff but you shouldent need it unless your using cheap gaskets or have small inperfections in the head or block some gasket sets say right on the box do not use it usaly the higher quality gasket with a similer type of coating on it already ive even seen some set say use dry or coated so bascicly unless it says on the gasket set you have not to use it it wouldent hurt just make sure you do alot 3 or 4 of thin even coats and give it enuff time to dry between coats if theres a run or something gets in the coatng it could cause a failure

i got them off of ebay they wernt cheap $100 for all 8 i got blue but they have them in red yellow and black also there %100 silicone you could actualy streach the small end over the joint if needed with out damaging them like in the old days and yes they are on a lifted rig for about 4-6 mounths still no clicking and most importantly they look good

ive replaced the life time warrenty axles from orealys more times than i can count the last run i bought all new silicon boots when i took the brand new axle apart to put my new silicone boot on there was no greese in the axle at all bone dry the splines dident line up they were loose and clicking by hand out of the box i refused 3 at the counter before settaling on the one i got i rebooted and greesed it and seems fine no clicking rebooting isent as hard as changing the axle but its very messy with a boot and geeese upgrade i think the aftermarket axles hold up fine but dont exspect to go and just bolt them in and have them last you have to rework them to get them to last the only problem is you void the warrenty when you reboot the axles if they can tell they wont take them back im getting my next ones from the junk yard at least i know what im getting

ive had simmiler issues with a ea82 it was a missing ground i went round and round the car i couldent figure it out then my daily driver did it after a funky off road off camber play run and it pulled my negative cable off the body the trans side was still hooked up as where the other body grounds but they wouldent run with out the main ground running to both the body and trans i felt so stupid that it took me so long to figure it out its easy to over look

i get alot of movement from my tans mine like to pop out of 2high and in to 4high i dont think the mounts are strong enuff ive swaped a few mounts around and nothing has changed i have herd of people making stronger mounts to stop that maybe try a ratchet strap around the trans or some cable just to test it if it solves your problem make something more perminent if not atleast it dosent cost alot

im running a Al6 ignition box its the pro comp brand its a clone of the msd ignition im still using the stock coil and its holding up fine at tripple duty and the plugs have a bigger gap i dont remeber what i set it at though i got my box off of ebay almost 10 years ago dirt cheap used but never installed still in the box i used it on my scout for years till i converted it to diesel then put the procomp box in my loyale it realy made a differance in the drivabuility and fuel economy all the other upgrades need to work together each mod by itself dosent realy do alot the ported heads wont do much with out a modified intake and the you have to get the exaust out so a bigger exaust is needed my intake spacers are 1" and the throtle body spacer is a inch aswell i ground down the 1/4" bead o the inside of the exaust manifold and went to 1 7/8" cat back to a glass pack the problem with the intake spacers is you have to have the space i have a 3" body lift so i have alot of room under the hood

that looks realy clean probably the nicest one ive seen yet simple and clean i like the side pieces they add that finnishing touch

i realy wish some one who actualy knows what there doing and can test them would pick up on the intake spacers and throtle body spacers please i did make mine before i saw that ram was making them but my design is crude and has alot of room for improvement but i think its making a big differance and i think theres more gains to be had than wha im getting i have to say though i dident see much gain with any one mod it took the combo to see any real gains but the ignition upgrade was the most noticable sigle mod i made and i belive is the building block for every mod i made after

i am running a ea82 im guessing its putting out somewhere between 110 and 120 hp thats just a wild guess i have nothing to back it up i have 3 of these so ill be running them for a while i made some intake manifold spacers and a throtle body spacer ported and polished the heads opened up the exhaust alittle and am running a AL6 multi spark discharge ignition box with the stock coil and a custom snorkle/cold air intake it dosent idle well but it pulls it pulls atleast as well as my 2.2 swaped forester with the 444 gears and after driving a freinds ej18 impreza i would say my ea82 has more pull in fact its not far off from the power of my 2000 ipreza outback sport with the 2.2 even with a load on it the ea82 dose alright and it always seems to run even when the outback the lego the forester and imp where down little blue chugged the 150 mile a day drive my girl makes every day through the santa cruz mountains with out missing a beat i tow alot localy with it other cars boats cargo containers office trailers the ea82 is a work horse not a race horse but when driven right it keeps up using low range on take offs it will move out the loyale is ruff it shaks it squikes rattles its loud the engine noise scares my dog the constant smell of burning oil and clutch the dents and ugly hammerite paint job all make one hell of a unique rig i choose to drive it on the daily the other rigs just sit the forester is in storage the lego sits i the drive way the outback has been hacked up to make a off road toy and the impreza handles the long comute i beat my little ea82 on the daily i dont think the ea82 will ever be able to match the power and eficiency of the ej motors but it is reliable cheap easy to work on and already in the car is the ea82 platform dead im thinking not

im diging the stinger on that green ea82 it almost looks like one of mine it dosent have the front licence plate holder for the front reciver though

i will never by any bosch products ever again they never last

the county has been in there they leveled alot of the hard spots my freinds went a wile back sead it was like driving down a dirt road with a few rocks here and there it is a county road after all

my point is im gona go im am woundering if theres anyone else out there that wants to go

rumors have it that you could get a rental car through there right now im sure thats not completely true but i have a big winch

i buy cheap water pumps and change the belts when the pump goes out and change the idlers and tensiones every other belt it works out to around 60k each time the belts always look good when there changed but hay why risk it i would much rather change a timing belt than replace valves

i was given a rolled explorer years ago we just jacked the roof back up and drove it for yeas sold it was given back to me sold it again came back towed my roo 1100 miles to the hammers and back sold it again this time it came back with a blown motor and a doner explorer so now i for some reason have a huge pile of explorer parts and i hate the explorers and i had a roo tha some one choped the a piller and b piller and repaired the roof i had no idea there was a problem other than all the welds rusted out and there was nothing holding the windshield in just push the roof back up and call it a day maybe add a role bar in if your worried about it going belly up again