ferp420

Ive been experamenting with copper gaskets i made my exhaust out of 2 layers of copper and coated them with copper spray they have only been on the car for a week or so but are holding the store bought gasket only lasted a few days

Its been along time since i messed with a ea81 but on the ea82 the disy and the cap both have vents to let condensation out on mine i modified the vents and inserted nipples In to the holes and ran a hose up under the dash then siliconed everything cap and wires in place when i get new wires ill run them inside of garden hose filled with silicone aswell but thats more for running in deep water than just puddle jumping my dissy stays nice and dry i also run a aftermarket ignition that im sure would help if alittle moisture did get under the cap on yours i would start by checking the vents if it has any and make sure everything is clean dielectric grease wont hert anything and will stop water from splashing up and shorting out your dissy but i dought it will stop the moisture under the cap problem u might also have week spark or are in need of a tune up

If you havent replaced the fuel filter yet i would try that any time i have any running issues thats the first thing i do there cheap and easy

I made mine out of 12 gage sheet metel thats .109 just a hair under 1/8" i used 1/4" stock for mounts and i conected my reviver tube on another piece of 1/4 stock running between the main brackets and then i ran a small piece of angle stock along the bottom side i made a winch mount on a 2" reciver tube so i can use my winches front or rear i have a 12k and a 3 k winches ive pined my car between 2 other rigs and drug my cargo box around my yard with the 12 k and the bumper dident distort at all the bumper it self will bend if i hit something hard ive straitend it out a few times i beat the isht out of my rigs though if your looking to build a light wait bur stronger than stock than 1/8" should be fine but if your gona be bouncing off of rocks and trees you might want it to be stronger but the winch mounts would need to be reinforced and tied in to the bumper mounts the thicker the better

Well im doing exhaust gaskets today maybe ill try it out on a simmple gasket our bead roler in the shop has to be close to 50 years old and takes alot of finness to get anything desent out of it

Ok now i want to make a set for my little 6.2 diesel darn it to many projects

But i could use the bead roller and roll a small grove in it then fill with silicone ive seen store baught gaskets done like that might work better if used on mulit layered gaskets i dont know what would be easyer to make but it woild make surfacing the heads easyer or maybe highbread them together 2 layers a bead roled around the ports then copper wire ring then high temp silicone then samwitch it all together now that would be a hell of a gasket but would take me a few days to make each gasket

I think the copper is to thin to cut a grove in from what i read on the net the trick is to strip a single strand of copper out of a copper wire and shape it to fit the ports and superglue it in place they say the wire will bite in to the head and make a very strong seal but that ridge would be hell to get out of the serface of the head and block

Im thinking if i anealed it then copper coated it it would have sealed better but i think the key is to make the holes match the holes in the block and heads and not the holes in a blown out gasket

Update im pulling the copper gasket off today i couldent get the oil to stop leaking so im installing a real gasket in its place so i guess this test was a fail but i think i can seal them so the next motor will have them just a few disign changes

Im still running rwd i did get my new cv axel but im waiting for all new silocone boot kit and greese so i can rebuild the brand new never instaled befor cheap orealy axel because they cant seem to put them to gether right at the factory its gona void the warrenty but like i told the guy at the counter they wont last 3 months as is and a warrenty isent any good if its beeing replaced with junk anyway i was getting rid of a 20ft boat 1800lbs and a 1100lb trailer i towed it down to the harbor and lanched it at low tide this little wagon in rwd mode whipped that boat around like nothing pulled it up the launch ramp with wet tires and only slight tire chirping with the boat off the trailer it roasted both back wheels all the way up the ramp still pulling the 1100lb trailer i would say the lsd works great if i only had one back tire it wouldent have been able to pull it up the ramp and i would have had to winch out of it i got rid of a boat that was a good boat but not my style and now i have a trailer for my outback crawler project

Update The intake boot ended up slowly spliting open the longer i drove the worse it got till the car wouldent run anymore and the intake boot was wasted oh well

A few bling pics im mean you know what good are the if you cant show them off right

There from Eagle breakes on the long steap down hill runs that the stock breaks bearly slowed the car down on pre disks now these breaks are smooth and require very light presure where the stock disks would require a incresing presure to keep a steady speed i still havent installed the new rear disks yet and i can already feel a differnce but only in extreme conditions normal every day around town no differance long steep grade there a world apart

My landloard got a half a dosen old street signs from the city workers i used one for a skid plate on my older bumper worked great took everything i through at it you might try asking around the city yard or ask the local road crew maybe they will kick down

The r160 is a good diff my parents used to rally race they both ran datsons mom had a 280z and step dad had a 510 they held up fine under the high torque straight 6 race motor the only real weak point in the drive tran for the rear drive is the transfer gears in the transmission the rest of the rear drive is stout i am worried about the lsd though i dont want to ware it out it locks up nicely right now so i want to keep it that way im am getting new axels funny the guy at the counter remeberd me because i riped him and his manager a new one becase they refused to warrenty my axel that was a bad idea on there part the maneger lost his job after i riped corprate a new one anyway we made nice so this time i go in and the same guy helps me and askes why i dont come in and buy parts anymore i pointed to the frozen axel and sead i cant keep installing junk on my car then shook the rattaly brand new axel next to it and sead junk he hung his head and went back to the computer to order a nother new axle i sead if the next one is bad ill just take it and keep it as a spare rebuild it my self and get a new one some where else im sure if they assembled them right and used quality boots and greas they would last but they dont i wont deal with orealys anymore if i dont have to because of the hole junk axle thing

I was talking about the 2" square tube strut top spacers not a premade lift kit

Find the picture of the napkin with the 2" lift specs on it it is floating around this site somewhere if it works for the ea81/82s rigs i see no reason it wont work for a baja/ outback but then again i havent tryed it on a outback yet and i dont know if the angles are the same ether it should at least work for the front i see no reason it wont work for the rear some test fitting and trial and error might be in order its just a body lift but its free and you only need a hack saw and a drill to fab the lift any more than 2" and your gona want lots of skill or lots of money

The axle i just installed failed already so im back in rwd till a good axel comes in ive turned down 2 new axels already again this round i tell you orealy axles are junk right out of the box worthless it made it less than 1000 miles before it froze up

I spent the extra $20 because they where made here in california and not in china

I was always under the impresion that vapor lock only happend before the fuel pump and that was the whole point of moving the pump back towards tank do you have a crazy exhaust or a relocated fuel pump if not the first place i would look would be the fuel filter and unless its new it cant hert changing it then look for bad ground or loose or pinched wires if that dosent work i would try hard wiring the fuel pump it dosent sound like a vacume leak but vacume might control something that has to do with the pump

Funny thing i just installed the drilled and sloted rotors with some nice ceramic pads i was in a pinch and was only able to do one side i had to drive about 100mles like that and there was no differance at all if i dident do it my self i wouldent have known the set up was differnt from right to left i expected a little pull but nothing i got the set all 4 wheels the thing is i went to 2 differant auto parts stores and i couldent get close to the price on ebay and i got mine on sale cheap apperently no one wanted drilled and sloted rotors for there loyale so i got them i know from experiance the dilled and sloted rotors ware the pads out alot faster but ive never personaly seen them crack i have seen solid rotors crack on alot of differant cars so i sure it could happen but i dident get them as a upgrade so im not disapointed they where just cheap maybe $20 more than the cheapest set ups i could find so i see it as better than the bottom drawer but not top of the line but still better than the original stock set up that came with the car and hey they look good

ive flat towed mine over a thousand miles not one problem and no need for a dolly i use a cheapo tow bar and it works great and it folds up and stores easly in the back infact i just flat towed a loyale to the next town over yesterday with my loyale just make sure the trans fluid is toped off and you could tow it as far as you want no need to disconect the drive shaft or anything else

no brake kits for the loyale huh boy that site is hard to use i cant ever find what im looking for what there advertising dosent come up in the catalog the link goes to the home page insted of the break special advertized so lame

i like there spacers i wish i would have seen them before i made mine mi throtle body spacer is a 1/2 larger on the manifold side and the manifold it self has been opend up and rounded off as far as i could reach i was realy worried about having to much air in there and getting flat spots on exceleration i figured i added alot more air volume to the manifold and i had no idea of what would happen i do like the results though it did take about 50-100 miles for the computer to adjust though it almost wouldent run at first after 5 min it idled smooth as glass but it took awile to get the drivability back now i cruse at less then quarter throtle even at 80 in 5th gear up hill with 29-30" tires as soon as i get some energy up ill reinstall my lsd rear end and get some more pulls on you tube it wont launch in 2wd it just hops around even with a extra 150lb winch hanging off the front it still wont get any traction i spend alot of time i in different subis i got to do a 500 mile road trip in a brand new off the show room floor crosstrech ive had to drive the 2015 toyota wrx through city trafic at rush hour with the owner of the car going come on go faster the 05 outback xt 98 outback 2000 impeza outback sport a 2000 2.2 swaped forester a ej 18 impreza this ea82 set up performs beter than the ej 18 and right at par with the 2.2 swapd forester even with its 4.44 gears it almost puls as hard as the outback sport at some point i want to set up a drag with the 2.2 forester 0-60 i think i can hang in low ranger till about 40-45 after that im sure the forester will walk away from me but would be fun just to see dont get me wrong im not saying the ea82 is anywhere close to a 2.2 but in a ae82 body the ea82 can get close to the power to wait ratio of a 2.2 ej bodyed rig something is telling me these motors can make decent power if i can get to this point with it im sure someone who knows there isht could realy wake this motor up