ferp420

the practice head ported valve bowls

ill talk to my buddy about that i dont know how far he wants to go with it its mostly just to prtect the oil pan just in case it hits a rock in the sand or a curb

im hoping to get more low end torque and im alittle board and these are small easy projects and well why not im mostly trying to keep the mind working even if everything else is breaking down

ive been tearing down motors like a mad man looking for good heads and practice heads i think i got my porting plan laid out modded my intake and finishing up my spacers

its hammer time again 2-1 - 2-7 johnson valley norv area ive got alot on my plate before the trip im porting a set of heads and doing a full reseal on my little ea82 i got some new tempo springs for up front and put my off road exaust back on and reinstall my welded diff that alone is alot for me right now but to add more im also preping a 2000 forester with the 2.2 swap its geting lifted and im building a skid plate for it aswell

im putting the finishing touches on my spacers and relized theres more to raising the manifold than just puting spacers in between the intake and heads the manifold needs to be modded to work also ive got a few so i did some cutting and taping some new holes and i think ill just block off the egr port for now till i can get some new line [/url

i just installed a kit in a 2000 forester there awsome but are coming back out the high low beams dont work and the cheap kit im using only conects to one head light andis causeing the light for the brights to be on all the time was real easy to hook up just need to mount the ballest and plug in the bulb goes in just like a stock head light just dont get ebay cheapies get a good kit

did you get it im about 100 miles north of you on hyway 1 i might be able to help if you can get up here worst case ive got a storage yard up here in half moon bay if you just need time or if you can rent a truck like a you haul or something and a get a cheap tow bar just tow it home

ive had rubber break lines them selfes go bad internaly with out showing signs of beind bad on the outside they rust on the inside and the clamps that hold them in place and makes a pinch point the fluid goes in under high presure but returns under low presure and can create break drag if slightly pluged try this little test let it sit a day or 2 and dont press the break pedel see if it roles use the parking break as it is mechanicel and wont create hydrolic pressure then in a parking spot press the peddlel hard and see if it locks up if it doses its probly a plugged line

the intake has a swirlie type thing in it im removing that also im thinking the swirlie thing and the big fin thingie would contradict each other why swirl the air right befor the head only to use the fin to redirect the air im leaving the short side of the manifold ruff to get a tumble affect befor the head im only guessing though it would be nice to see some pics and something more than a guess as to how they work or not

it would be very close but i think it would clear ill check on my buddys car it seems to help more with light throtle than wide open

its open all the way through the intake boot you can actualy see through from one end to the other

so i was messin around with my spare car parts and noticed the intake boot shrinks way down right before the mouth of the throtle body so i grabed a 2" pvc 45º fitting and carved it up till it fit inside the intake boot i heated up the rubber and streched the rubber of the intake till it fit it seems to have more throtle responce off idle so i think its worth the $2 and 10 min to at least try it

i run bias ply gramer slick when wet wares fast under hard reading conditions and get flat spots when read to long

flat spots will go away as soon as the tire heats up its just alittle uncomfertable first few miles on a cold morning

i think the angle of the back should be steeper and maybe some glass to break up the huge space left over i think it would need custom doors and glass to look right but nomater what im sure it would be a fun project and will be cool no mater what because u built it your self go for it if you dont like it f¿@k it tube it up and wheel it to death

down here in the bay area they throw them away i got 2 for 100 each one had a great body and one perfictly running with a duel range in it it was roled at some point and some one fixed it i looked great but the winsheald rusted out so bad there wasent enuff metel to reinstall a new window my 3rd one my daily was a gift so i got 3 loyales for $200 total but i would bet yours is a easy fix though when i looked up the nada blue book for my 94 loyale wagon the range was 100-1200 for a running car but what i coldent figure out was the older 2wd dl wagon was 500-2500 i might be remebering that wrong it was a few years ago when inlooked them up but the 2wd versions with auto seem to go for way more i dont understand but hay

bias ply tires dont seem to have the wet weather traction on pavement and maybe its just me but they seemed to want to bounce like a basket ball when aired all the way up radials are way more predictable on the road bias plys are saposed to flex better to fit the terain but i dident experance that my self but thats why they get flat spots there conforming to the serface there siting on i ran them for over a year i ran them at 5psi to keep the bounce in check city trafic in the rain got scary but thats the only time i realy noticed a differance on or off road if your ever gona use it as a street rig get radials if its a dirt rig that dosent see reguler street use get bias plys

very nice

nice i love that place there was a bunch of hippy bands that would play 3day runs outhere ive spent many days wheelin and wanderin around out there definetly on my list of places yo go back to