ferp420

i dont know if it makes more sence but when in the feild you dont always have a choice

if you have it in far enuff to get the nut on and pry on it than you wont be damaging anything just make sure.to line everything up first before beating or prying on anything they should be a tight fit and.some just plain dont fit so dont try to hard but alot of times they just need a light smack or 2 to get to the point that you can get the nut to thread on and pry on

right on let me know

the ratios are to close to go that route in my opinion anyway 4 bolts and you know for sure no big deal if there on the bench already

ive had to pull the boot and hammer them in before then reseal the boot not a big deal if you can get the shaft in far enuff to get the nut on it then you can pry the shaft in to place using the nut and a pry bar also try to align the axle and the bearings inside the hub you could be hitting one of the bearings from the inner race being slightly off the one thats pulling apart has something wrong with it they forgot a clip somewere ether the shaft end or inside the joint it self so take it back

if the metal tag is gone your gona have to open them up it shouldent be a issue if there all sitting in front of you the gear ratio is stamped on the ring gear or maybe it was.the teeth count thay stamped on the gear ether way thats were it is some times there is mud covering the sticker

there should be a tag on it that has the gear ratio and if its a lsd diff maybe 2 tags one would be a sticker and one a metal tag atached to one of the bolts on the rear of the housing and would have #s stamped on it

save that factory axle and put some silicone boots on it and use good quality greese and it will be leaps and bounds better than any aftermarket axle shaft 8

is it.still drivable and dose it.come with a title im not realy lookin for another loyale but i would take one im not far from there and could use the parts i would need the title to scrap the leftovers though

i dont think we got those here in the us the only mpfi ive seen was turbo charged i know all my manual n/a spfi rigs were all 23 spline

ea81s dont have rear struts but the fronts were adjustable ive nerver seen or herd of adjustable front struts for a ea82 not that that means anything the ea82 some of the newer coilovers for the rear do have 2 settings for the spring purch so kinda adjustable the ea81 the tortion bar ride hight is adjustable but we were talking front struts i think

i think the adjustable struts were for the ea81 the ea82 i think are the same units the rear though they had to make the strut shorter and use a higher mounting point on the knuckle to clear the cv joint

if i remeber the 25 spline was for turbos only all n/a cars were 23 spline there is some differance between fwd and awd but they would still fit ether rig with out issue i sure the carbed vs non carbed are both 23 spline with other differances but non that would cause one not to work besides by now im sure all 23 splines are the same and wont matter same with 25 spline there are no good choices left for any of them so just get what fits and fill it with greese and if you want it to last for any lenght of time replace the boots with silicone rubber boots always check for play at the shop you get the axles at ive had too many come slopy out of the box and when installed fail in days after install its best to refuse them at the counter than try to get them to replace them after they fail

for the rear struts ive found nissan 300zx front struts fit the rear of the loyale perfictly there the same size as the front wheel drive loyale rear struts but have a much larger shaft than stock struts and you get a half inch more wheel traval as there longer than the stock struts and the damining is way better the springs dont fit though you have to use honda springs or stock springs the lift blocks are somewere between 15° and 18° depending on your rig my loyale likes 18° but its so bent up now it almost dosent mater i couldent clear 235/75/15s on a 2" lift i went 4" with tempo springs front and the nissan struts on the rear with stock springs and a 2" lift for around 3" of tottal lift on the loyale to clear 30" tires i found some dirt cheap maxxis tires in the 28" range but there for 16" rims but damb they handle 80mph on dirt like there on pavement and handel sand snow ice and pavement great and do ok in the mud too but there not mud tires just incase your looking for tires

thanks for.the edit yo you almost got it the forester suspention is going under the impreza the outback is getting the duel range that i have laying around then getting cut up more than it already is they just had a major race in my back yard you might have herd of it they call it the king of the hammers i watched the race out my window lol theres some knarly terrain out here thats already crushed my first lift i built it gets beat pretty hard just going to town and back but this place is awsome except for the heat and the cold lol i dont need a 4wd truck i have a lifted scout with a 6.5 turbo diesel in it a expodition type rig with a pop up camper and a ford f250 tow pig so thats all covered but i dont drive them everyday though ive also been thinking about building up a baja i have a old convertable beetle that i might do something with in time that would be a fun rig out here also for the imp i started the thread about i setteled on 28" tires and im planning to swap in the 411 gears in this summer i hope the 2"/3" lift is getting changed to a 3/3 i smacked a huge rock the other day and almost destroyed the radiator suport i dident even see it i was climbing a big loose sand hill and smack oh well time for more lift did you see the vid of the imp catching air in the dunes lol i love it you can see the front of the car go up then drop backwards before the front end droped down for a nice smooth landing kind of lol sand dunes you know lol the loyale is still sitting on the trailer it still runs fine last i checked the darn freeze plug poped again though so i have to pull the valve cover off and put it back in again then pick up some more axles for it and finnish the long arm kit i only built one side so far cause i riped the radius arm off the body it was being held in by one spot weld lol not anymore though all new mounts underneeth i had to be able to move it around so i built one side it drives funny like that for sure i just started diving the other rig but the impreza dosent hold a candle to the old loyale off road so im thinking of getting it going again to play with its to hard to haul rc cars around on the dirtbike and the imp cant go were the loyale can but i try lol im tryin to get down to just 3 roos only 1 for road use though 2 vws and the ford and the scout i have way to many cars right now and moving them from storage to the house is gona take along time but thats life right hay atleast i have my own house with plenty of land to park them on and everything is payed off so i dont have to work my retiement is enuff to fund most of my projects so what the hay right ill take my time and see how much i can get done before i leave this planet lol so hay ubaroo if you feel up to it im sure that could use alittle editing and good luck with your new loyale build i hope its as awsome as your old hatch what ever happend to that anyway somthing about a trailer and a tree i dont know anyway enjoy

there is alot of piston to valve clearance in that engine i dought you could remove enuff material to cause interferance but i know you can remove enuff to make the intake manifold not fit however you can make a intake manifold spacer to make the transision if the spacers are made corectly it shouldent be a issue the intake spacers do two things they increse the low end torque by making the intake runners longer that effectivly makes more air available off idle to the cylinders incresing the low end torque and they also make the transition from the factory intake to the now narrower engine the problem with the intake spacers is they have to be custom made for your engine depending on how much the block and heads were cut down so unless you feel like taking on a huge project and have a shop with alot of tooling and alot of skill be prepaired to spend alot of money and after the spacers are made everything needs to be port matched i shaved the block and the heads way down maybe a 1/4" off of each side i also ported the hay out of the intake manifold and the heads but the manifold spacers were the key to making it all work that engine although short lived had as much low end torque as my ej22 v2 if not more it was a true beast of a ea82

it sounds like its stuck in 4wd and the extra load finnished of the clutch mine got stuck in 4wd all the time you have to drive backwords ruffly till it lets go the push button ones can realy be hard to disengage when they get stuck

i would try contactin sjr he makes lifts and adaptor plates and might know where to get the wiring harness aswell also try serching the forum then theres the wanted section there were several venders a few years back but i dont seem to remeber who they are there should be sevaeral threads about it in this section aswell

theres guys on this forum that can build you a plug and play wiring harness and provide you with the addaptor also

the ej swap would realy wake that rig up but i understand wanting to keep the ea82 but as they get older they get harder to keep going

if i was able to find a replacement i just replaces the whole thing or just the electrical part of the switch ive also used universal keyed switches mounted under the dash one rig had toggle swithes that had to be flip in a certain patern and a push button starter switch my bmw i just riped the wires out of the dash and twisted them together and would touch the starter wire to the wires i twisted together my vw bus still uses a screwdriver to unlock the steering wheel and a universal keyed switch for ignition and a wire straight from the starter and touch it to the battery ive tryed rebuilding the switches with varying sucsess zome times they stayed together some times they dident maybe someone here has a rig there parting out and could help you out with a complete set up that would be the best way to go in my opinion cause then you would have a new key also and you would be helping another member get some cash for there junk lol do some testing first pull the unit out and see if you can jump the wires at the switch there should be one positive in and 3 loads out one starter wire one ignition wire and one accessory wire there if i remeber there should be solder points on the back of the switch that you can use a jumper on good luck

my guess would be the damaged ignition switch ive had that happen before there are contacts in there and alot of times they fall out when messing with the key cylinder ive had that happen more than once

so i bent the lift blocks lol goin alittle to fast through the woops and caught a big one right on the kisser and opps why is my tire rubbing all the sudden lol time to make a real lift kit for it the napkin lift did its job i dident exspect to have any issues with it but i was wong oh well thats how it goes

i use the tie down points with my tow bar but when i made the last bumper i made the bumper mounting brackets go through the bumper so i can use them or the tie downs the thing to remeber is the tow bar is only there to keep the 2 cars apart all your safety and piece of mind come from the tow chains being set up corectly so if it hits the fan your car is still conected to the tow rig one time i forgot to lock the tow bar on the ball and it poped off i was still in the driveway but shibit happens and if it wasent chained down it would have ended up in the creek i allways check my chains and tow bar before hitting the main road and every freeway change and gas stop i have flat towed my loyale thousands of miles on and off road the imprezza also with the same tow bar

if you cant find oem axles you can buy a junk axle from a auto parts store and reboot them and add some decent grease they last alittle while most of them dont have any grease at all and the boots are junk