charm

Not ure how to check refrigerant levels without gauges. What I can check is, it appears the clutch isn't engaging. Although this raises a differ question. If the clutch isn't engaging, how does the A/C get cold even at highway speeds? The nice thing is, if it is the clutch, I save the cash from having the system evacuated and refilled. I need to look at what that repair involves. Perhaps it can be done quickly in my parking spot. As an environmental scientist, professional ethics prevent me from following the Grossgary method, sadly because that sounds pretty darn easy!

A/C: Not sure this makes sense for my situation, but would love to hear more opinions. The A/C works great when the car is moving but not at all when the car is at idle. This doesn't seem like a coolant, or lack thereof, issue. Like I said, if it just didn't work, I'd know what to do, but it does work, and works well, when the car is moving. The faster the car is moving, the colder the A/C blows! I think the headgaskets were the standard, supposedly better, replacement head gaskets. The shop I was going to was reluctant to use the turbo headgaskets, but I've changed shops and I think this one is less reluctant. As a bonus, they're less expensive! Their timing belt service includes the pulleys and the water pump and the cam and crank seals. If it didn't, I'd insist on adding those anyway. While the engine is out for the transmission and head gaskets, I'll have them swap out EVERY seal in the engine. The back plate is the only gasket they won't need to get to anyway so it's less than an hour's worth for work for something that probably needs replacing, again, anyway. The A/C and the timing belt I'd do myself, and have, if I still had a garage. Without a good place to work and the need to pull the transmission and the time differential between me and the mechanic with the head gaskets, I'm willing to pay for the whole deal so that I have my car back sooner. The head gaskets are dribbling oil, but barely, not coolent. With everything else that needs to be done, adding the headgaskets to the list and having them done before they're a must fix item just makes sense.

I got about 2" after everything settled using '04 Baja springs on the stock, but new, struts on my Outback. When you compare the two different springs, the Baja springs are about the same height and I seem to recall them having fewer coils. But the steel is way thicker. As a result, you get lift and a bumpier ride. Warning, combined with my rallitek sway bars, the car now makes some pretty obnoxious clicking noises. After a thorough looksie by me and then my mechanic we confirmed that, yep, it's a result of having much stiffer suspension.

After a thorough search, I can't find 'my' problem so I'm bringing it to you. 2000 obw, 212,000 miles. Will be getting new head gaskets, timing belt, and transmission at some point in the next 6 months or so (timing belt was last done at 120k the last time I had the gaskets done). Its warm here in Seattle so I turned on the A/C and it blew warm air. If that's all it did, I wouldn't be asking any questions. When I hit the gas, it blew cold. When I'd get to another red light, it blew warm. So, the A/C works awesome on the freeway when it's not rush hour, but otherwise it's kinda broken. Before I take the car in, I'm curious about what it is and, as a result, what this is going to cost me to fix in addition to the several other thousands that I need to spend to buy myself another couple hundred thousand miles. I miss my garage.

They're a couple bucks each from the dealer. As easy as it is to remove the cluster, there's no sense in doing it more than once with the bulbs being as affordable as they are so replace all of them while you're in there. Took me about 15 minutes having never done it before. It's not too many screws and then just a little wiggling and a couple plugs.

In case dy down the road searches for ear turn signal problem, I wanted to close this. This was one of the easiest repairs I've ever done to this car. It's 5 screws, two of which are a lot easier to see from below the column but my knees and back never touched the ground or the carpet. Having not been in there before, I took off about double the panels then were needed so what took 20 minutes would only take me 10 next time. I bought a new one because it sounded like it would be a horrible job and the risk of having to do it twice was too great. I could have bought a used turn signal switch on eBay for $35, shipped. Instead I paid $120 to buy a new OEM one. Buy th eBay one! Here's what you do... Remove the one screw holding the plastic trim under the column and remove the trim. You will have to flip the column adjuster lever under the column down to get it off, that took me a bit to figure out. Locate the two screws holding the top plastic trim piece and remove them. This may require you to look underneath the column. Remove the two screws holding the turn signal switch to the column and unplug. Put it back together with the new one and you're done. Really really simple!

Not as easy as I think it will be, eh?

I'd love to find that post from a few years back! I gave it a good look but found nothing. If I can manage to get a used one, I might as well just replace it. I haven't dug into the column yet, but I would imagine it involves removing the plastic covers and, because it's never that easy, there's probably something that needs to be moved out of the way. Then, based on photos of the new part that I've seen, it's a couple screws holding it to the column and really big plug. I hope it's that easy!!!

What else you got on that parts car? I could also use a new passenger side seat heater switch ( or my wife could), the heated mirror switch, and a functioning auto dimming mirror Regardless, I'll take the stick, thanks! Pm me to work out paying for it.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for a new stalk at the salvage yard I guess. Give it a few more weeks before I give in and buy a new one.

2000 OBW auto tranny 206k My turn signals are acting odd, the left signal specifically. At first I thought I had a bad bulb because when signaled left, it would click fast, but no light on the dash. But, thanks to my laziness, I did nothing about it. At some point I noticed that this was intermittent. This is where it gets weird...it isn't intermittent. I can wiggle the stick and make it work. It's like there's an issue with the contacts inside the stick. I did a search and couldn't find this discussed. Has anybody dealt with this in the past? Any ideas on the problem, how to diagnose or fix?

Pretty pleased with AWD Auto. They spent a good long while trying to ID the noise. Of course, as is always the case with transient noises, it refused to do it for the mechanic. I'm thinking AC at the moment but I'll change my mind tomorrow, I'm sure. Thorough investigation and charged me half what they quoted because they felt bad they couldn't find anything. I suspect that the issue might have something to do with the owner hearing things.

No. That's not allowed. I guess I better take a closer look. Fortunately, I can live without a power steering pump.

I'm in Columbia City so it's really not all that far to Auburn. Heck, it's probably closer than Smart Service. Have you had experience with these guys?

I have taken my car to Smart Service for years but there has to be some shop in the area just as good that can do the same job for less. I need somebody to steer me to that shop. My car is making noises, kind of a whiny grindy noise. The timing belt was done about 80k ago as part of a head gasket job by Smart Service. The tensioners and everything else was replaced at the same time. If I had to guess, I'd say the noise is from the tensioners. The car is also eating oil I think through the cam seals. It's a little early for a timing belt, but, if this other stuff needs to happen then so be it. So, please show me to a great AND affordable shop! I hope there is one out there as good as Smart Service where this project won't cost me $2k or more.

I know I'm getting them well seated. I'll double check that they're the right fit.

2001 OBW, 200,000 miles, almost exactly. I've replaced all the little plastic clips, except the one where the mount for it is broken. It holds until I close the hatch with anything more than just the minimum amount of force needed or until something in the back bumps into the panel. I can't imagine this much trouble is because of 1 missing clip, but what do I know. Thoughts on a fix? I don't think there are any places where I could add a couple screws, but there might be.

I'm in California, away from my garage and tools for several months for work. I recently noticed a torn CV boot and need to get a new axle. With space and tools this is a job I can do, but I lack those things at the moment so I'm looking for a shop. Does anybody know of a shop in the Antelope Valley that does good work? There is a stealership, but I would like to know the same about them. Hopefully somebody out there has experience in this part of California! Thanks

The $5 fix is likely to fix the problem. It is no guarantee. Just ask my check engine light or my anti foulers.

New is a relative term on a car with almost 200k on it. . So, yes, the 2nd statement is more descriptive. Good rebound. Upon inspection yesterday, before I posted this, I observed a solid spring, no visible cracks or breaks, no leaks, and a solid strut top. My concern remains, will the sag imact the longevity of the strut? Are the struts, which aren't leaking and currently have good rebound in the rear, destined for an early grave because of the sagging? In other words, will the struts be damaged because they spend more time further compressed then they were intended?

I think my concern is whether or not the sagging will affect the strut. If not, I'm prefetly happy saving the $130 plus shipping on new rear struts.

2000 OBW ltd. 195k miles. auto The rear struts are new, the front ones are, in all likelyhood, original. Whether they're stock or not, I'm certain they've lived a full life and need to be retired immediately! It's the rear I'm worried about. Those struts have in the ballpark of 40k on them and the drivers side sits an inch, maybe an inch and a half lower than the passenger side. I had thought that there was maybe a broken spring or bad mount, but everything appears really solid. I had planned to replaced struts, mounts, and springs at all 4 corners, but I really don't have a problem leaving the rear struts (replacing the springs and mounts) if they only have 40k on them. With the sag I've mentioned, is there a reason to believe that I should replaced these struts? Additionally, I'm thinking seriously about replacing the springs with those from '04 to '07 (I think that's the time frame) Baja. I assume I would use the OBW struts and only swap part numbers for the springs? Yes, I'm looking for a little bit of a lift. Thanks all!

Really? To me, this sounds like suggesting that I change my oil every 500 miles because it could get dirty, replace my tires every 10k miles because they could blow. Changing a timing belt rated for 105,000 miles when it only has 70k on it pretty crazy especially considering the cost in time and/or money depending on whether I do the work myself or take it in and how many 'while I'm in there' parts I replace. Don't get me wrong, the car goes in for the replacement between 120k and 120k when it's due, but would you really replace parts that still have 40% of the warranteed life still in them?

So, new springs all around should probably be in my future. Would it pay to switch over to the Baja springs since it sounds like they're a little more stout?

2000 OBW, 192k, new rear struts about 50k ago. Front struts probably stock. I first noticed the tail end of my car looked lower than others I would see. I finally got around to measuring the height from the ground to the top of the wheel arch and noticed that the left rear is 2 inches closer to the ground than the right. I did not measure the front. I suppose it's possible that my rear struts, or at least one, is toast. Is it more likely the springs? Would the difference seen in the rear come from the certainly toasted front struts? Is it the springs or the struts? Safety concerns from this?