charm

Further issues that may trigger something... I talked to the installer who said they need to unplug something that can trigger the code. I went to the auto parts store and cleared the memory. The CEL is back on an hour later and I have not had a chance to check the code again, but I will. The other new piece of info is that, while cruising along down the freeway, I turned on the cruise control which promptly locked the doors. When I turned off the cruise control, the doors promtly unlocked. This is repeatable at any speed as long as the car is not in park. Any thoughts on what happened? Am I stuck with power cruise locks?

I've been researching the same question for the same car. I feel like there is too much real estate on the dash for a single DIN head unit so I've limited my search to those of the double DIN variety. I was very close to plunking down $800 for indash navigation when I realised I was about to spend $800 for radio! That led me to a Pioneer that just came out. I think the model number is FPH 800BT (or something like that). No buttons, no flashy stuff, mostly black. It's main feature is a knob in the middle that works a lot like that of an ipod. It comes standard with the ipod cable as well as bluetooth. Here in WA, hands free will be the law starting in July so this is a big feature for me. MSRP is $350 for the Pioneer Premier version and $330 for the standard version. There are subtle differences but the extra year of warranty makes the extra $20 worth it. I have owned all of the above mentioned brands and as well as others and have really never had a bad car stereo. Just find the features that you like and you'll be fine. Make sure to play with the unit in the store before you buy one!

Just left the stereo with my new car alarm installed on my 2000 Outback Ltd, AT. I noticed a CEL as I pulled away and went to the store to check it out. P1121 After figuring out that that means something is up with the neutral position switch, what could have happened while the installer was working on the car?

For those that have these, do they help with the wind noise from the frameless windows? I like the look of the frameless windows...I hate the sound.

Mystery solved, I think I should get a free oilhange out of this human error. It is human and it isn't something that would cause me to stop taking my car to this mechanic. The mechanic didn't reconnect the PCV hose to the PCV valve when he dropped the engine back in. It explains why the smell smelled fuelish and exhaustish but not really either to me. It smelled like hot oil! Anything I should check for having run the car without this hose for a 50 or so miles?

So you think that the mechanic didn't securely attach something when putting the engine back in last week? I'll check the hoses. The boots look sealed, although one is showing some wear...it's not leaking though.

I've got an exhaust smell in the cabin when the car is at idle. 2000 Outback Ltd, 126,000 mi, manual tranny. I've put 300 of those miles on it myself (I just bought it). Got a great deal because it needed headgaskets...that's been taken care of. Before I bought it I also knew it needed the catalytic converter(s) replaced. Please tell me that the exhaust smell and the catalytic converter issue is related. The smell is almost like fuel, but not exactly, it's partially burnt, but not completely burnt. I figure it's either the cats or an exhaust leak left by the mechanic when they pulled the engine to do the head gaskets. Any guesses as to which? Steps for diagnosis before Monday when I'll take it to the mechanic to see what they say?

Also curious about Napa's cermix pads. Thoughts? I plan to buy my rotors through them so it would certainly be convenient if I could pick up my pads at the same time.

It is degrading the neighborhood and I need a bigger car. A new(er) Outback LTD has called my name and I am powerless against its call. While I like the car, it's the perfect set of maintenance records that has me loving the car most of all. It being a 2000, I'm a little concerned about the HG, but I know that the coolant conditioner has been used at every radiator flush since the recall so things should be in decent shape despite the 125,000 miles. Am I just asking for more of the same problems?

I'll pull a plug or two and check it out. The drip check doesn't work well with this car because it is dripping...power steering fluid. I've tried the cardboard test and, well, all I can see is the power steering fluid. The oil comsumption is but one issue the car has (the most costly to fix, sure, but just one). The steering rack, the clutch pack, and the 150k maintenance items all add up too. I would be ready to spend the money on the maintenance stuff if it weren't for all of the none maintenance stuff. But I'll pull the plugs before making any serious decisions.

The engine isn't leaking the oil, it's burning it. The running theory after checking all of the inexpensive suspects, is that the rings are gunked up and the engine flush will cure that...we'll see. They are all basic maintenance items and there is nothing on the list that I could not do...there are very few things on the list that I have time to do myself. Hence the mechanic rates. I've read here several times that driving in FWD for extended periods is not good for the car. I suppose there are varying opinions on just about everything. And I agree, most are typical maintenance problems. My issue is with the additive value of everything. Dealing with torque bind and mystery fuel consumption in addition to two or three grand worth of maintenance...that's the issue. To have a mechanic do most of this stuff, at least the time consuming items, I'm still looking at $6k to $8k (assuming the rings are shot).

I have a 97 Impreza L wagon with an auto, 143,000 on the odometer. I bought it at 60,000 miles and it's been a good car. Well, it needs stuff as all cars with 150,000 miles do. It also needs a few more things. The things I know it needs add up to about $4k it might also need an engine rebuild or swap if the engine flush doesn't solve my oil consumption issues. What it needs, including maintenance items, is... its 150,000 mile service distibutor and wires new axle new tires steering rack and probably a rebuild on the clutch pack (the tranny flush got rid of the torque bind for about 15,000 miles) Some of this I could do myself, most of it I just don't have the time for. I've done great with this car, basic maintenance, one set of tires, one axle, new struts, a new rear wiper motor, and that's about it. When do I cut bait and go get me a newer outback? After what year did they fix the head gasket issues on the 2.5s? Is the H6 as reliable as the 4s? Is there a particular model to stay away from? Thanks for your help in this stressful moment for me. I was really enjoying not having a car payment.

O.k., I know I've seen a VERY well written procedure on how to do a strut swap on here before but after an hour of searching, I figure somebody knows exactly where it is. I plan to start this little project around noon or 1 o'clock today and hope it won't take more then 4 or 6 hours. Please let me know where I saw that procedure?!!!

So I just got back from Les Schwab and I'll never go back...at least not for anything but tires. They tried to convince me that the AGX was non-adjustable and had a smoother ride. I'm curious aobut what you all think the difference between the 2 is...

Sounds like I won't be taking that route. Tirerack isn't much more expensive then ebay and I bet the customer service is much more responsive. Ideally I could find the GR2s locally for a similar price to tirerack (or better yet, ebay) but I haven't figured out where. Should I make sure to buy new strut tops when I do this? How frequently do they need to be replaced? They're not cheap and I may have to go to the dealer for at least the rears. I'd like to be prepared for what I might need so I don't have to figure out how to get to the parts store in the middle of the night (or day) without a car.

Did a search for this but couldn't find a real straight answer. As mentioned in another post, I have a '97 Impreza L wagon that needs struts. I came across on NAISOC a set of struts with 10,000 miles on them off of a 2002 sedan. The setup is very affordable and includes all the struts, springs, and tophats for all 4 corners. Will the 2002 WRX sedan suspension bolt up to my '97 wagon? Will I need to swap the rear springs out of the '02 stuff with my '97 stuff to prevent the dreaded rear end sag?

I have to replace the struts but don't want to start dealing with the added expense of new springs. If the Outback and L struts are the same length, then I'll stick with my current ride height. I was under the impression that the Forester struts did not work well with the Impreza springs. Am I misinterpreting what I've read? Again, I don't want to buy new springs and I HAVE to buy new struts.

I need new struts on my 1997 impreza L wagon. I'd like to get a little lift when I do this but don't want to spend the extra cash on springs. Is the extra height in the Outback Sport a function of the strut or the spring? Should I just put Forester struts on with my stock springs? I'm not looking for a huge lift, just thinking it would be fun to get a little bit more height while I'm doing something I need to do anyway.

I'll try to remember to take some pics of my sub enclosure this evening...hopefully it's visible through all of my 'stuff.' I'm running a 10" sub and it's scalable. I don't think I could set off a car alarm, well, maybe a really sensitive one, but it can get pretty boomy. It also turns down nicely and just richens the sound. I think an 8" sub would also sound fine and be even easier to get into the car. Someday I'll finish my enclosure and it'll look really great. You're right about audio, it's in the ear of beholder. You make a good guess at the store and cross your fingers it'll sound good in that tiny environment we call a car.

I think the thing to do is to look at the system as a whole. If you were swapping out an auto tranny for a manual, you wouldn't first add the clutch and then a little while later add the tranny. I think where the confusion comes in is that factory subs were not designed to be used with aftermarket radios and vice versa. Additionally, if you're after sound quality, factory Subaru speakers are not the way to go. My Infinities cost less then the factory speakers in my friends new Audi, but they sound much nicer and are much much better built. I have a subwoofer with a fiberglass enclosure that I built, someday I'll finish it, molded into the side of the back of my Impreza wagon between on the strut tower and the access to the taillight bulbs...it's removable, just not finished. I have an amp for the sub under the driver's seat and an amp for the front speakers under the passenger seat. The rear speakers don't add much to sound quality so they're factory and powered by my aftermarket radio. As a whole system, things sound great, but they were all purchased with intent. I knew that mixing factory and aftermarket doesn't usually work, and I knew that I didn't like the sound or functionality of the stock stereo. If you're looking for better sound quality, move away from factory pieces, if you're looking for a more facotry look, move away from the aftermarket, but you need to choose one.

I had my 97 Impreza L with bald tires in a parking lot with fresh snow up to the headlights a couple of years ago. While it certainly did not 'blast' through the snow, it got out of that parking lot. Would an OBW have been better? The snow was deep enough that it wouldn't have made a difference. Would tire tread, any tread, have made a difference? Highly likely, but even with the bald tires, this thing got through. In other words, I don't think the height difference will be noticable in snow performance.

The crack is barely visible, is it (the crack) a problem. If it's not then I'm not going to bother swapping out the cover. Otherwise, it sounds easier then expected. I'll run by the dealer and look into the cost of the cover...that may be the hardest part of the entire process.

In my 97 impreza, the cover on the steering wheel, behind which resides the airbag, has cracked right where it's supposed to when the airbag deploys. This may not be a big deal but I thought I'd make sure. If this is something that needs fixing, is it something I can do myself? I've always been under the impression that messing with airbags is better left to the pros.

While doing a search in support of my views on Smart Service to present to my company who wants to use Lee Johnson Chevy/Mazda as our Subaru mechanic I came across the above. I just wanted to add my 2 cents about Smart Service. They just did my timing belt service and while that service wasn't cheap, it was less expensive than the dealership and I believe more thorough. Although they mentioned things that need fixing, a leaking boot on my steering rack and a corroded contact on my distributor, they didn't push fixing either one. They pushed a tranny flush, but I had been concerned about torque bind and my tranny fluid was apparently pretty nasty, instead of just a fluid change. They pushed for crank and cam seals, a new waterpump, and a new tensioner pulley...all items that, with 120k on the car needed to be replaced. While the repair cost more than I had anticipated, I have even more faith in my car than I did before...I know it has many many more reliable miles in it because the basic maintenance was done and done correctly. Plus, I didn't spend the weekend doing it myself, which was a consideration. I'm sorry some people have issues with Smart Service but I don't want anybody to get the wrong impression of them. I am pleased enough to write a compliment, and that doesn't happen often. I'll bad mouth negative experiences up and down, especially my brake job at Eastside Subaru, but the compliments don't come readily. Now, if I can just convince my company that choosing a mechanic because we have an account already set up is not a good way to choose a mechanic, all will be at peace.

It is an auto. The fuse changed nothing. The tires are all as identical as they can be (less than 1/16 difference between them). The clunk comes when the car is very cold, it's been pretty chilly in the mornings around here so I don't know if it will do this when the mercury is above say 40 degrees. The clunk comes from the right side of the car, right rear when turning right, right front when turning left. It only happens at very low speeds, less than 10mph.