a2labs

I have some questions! Is this an exclusive meet or is it a come one, come all type thing? It seems by the last few posts we need to register somewhere. Where is that? Also curious if there's an entrance fee or anything like that! I'd really like to be there if that's possible! EDIT: Nevermind, I found the thread in the meet 'n greet section.

Nah soobiefreak, I don't think you're wasting your money, I was just curious if you broke or bent a valve and that's why you were replacing them. Having said that, if there's nothing wrong with the valves and the guides aren't wearing abnormally, and if you aren't going for some crazy 700hp supercharged turbo build, you can probably get away with cleaning them and reusing them. Might get a micrometer on them to make sure they're within spec still. Good luck!

I'll try to take some pics/notes of my setup when I weld my new manifolds on tomorrow. I don't think you need any vacuum/vents at all tho. Go back far enough engine wise and there's none. Not talking about Subaru's specifically just engines in general. Points distributor has centrifugal advance, mechanical linkage to control the heater position, usually on/off if there was heat, tank vented thru the cap or not at all. I don't know maybe I'm dreaming all this up. I've been around plenty of old engines and I swear there are no vacuum lines that are critical.

60 euros for a d/r 4wd is a great score, congrats!

In my ea82 wagon, the only vacuum related things I have hooked up are: -vacuum advance on distributor -vacuum line to heater controls -charcoal canister to direct fumes from the tank into the intake Pretty sure that's it. The rest of it is emissions crap. One of the first things I did when I got this car was one-by-one eliminate any vacuum line that wasn't critical. It sure made a hell of a difference in the way it runs.

Sounds like a CV to me but the first thing I'd do is jack up that corner and check for play in shock mounts, ball joints, etc. Might as well check for play in the CV too. You'd think a shop would notice something like that while it was on the lift, I don't know, never heard of a tranny doing something like that on left turns only. I was just saying in another post how a few months ago I went thru 3 CV's before finding one that didn't click. Parts quality these days is terrible in my opinion. The axle I ended up with was a reman where the others were supposedly "new". Just my 2 cents. Good luck!

Yeah it's common in my experience, I get wrong and bad parts so often that it's a running joke whenever I go to fix someone's car... They ask how long it will take and I say "depends on how many trips it takes to get the right part" My recent experience has been better with remans that with new parts. Changing an axle in my '85 wagon a few months ago, went thru three axles before I found one that didn't click. Send em back quick before it's too late. By the way, why are you buying new valves? Just curious. Good luck!

I used to hear of this happening when I was an unlock technician, idiots jamming slimjims down inside a door not knowing what they're doing... but that's not how you unlock a car with frameless windows, you wedge the window out and go thru that gap to the lock button. Definitely some bound up linkage or something like that. I suppose it could be a frozen lock cylinder too. How often do you use the key in that door? Should be real easy to find after you get the door panel off. Good luck!

At first I thought those were some kind of crazy horn tweeter for a stereo, because I build my own amps and speakers etc lol. I was like "Never knew hella made horn tweeters..." Then I realized horns.... beep beep get-out-of-my-way type horns, doh! Gratz on one year, hope there's many more to come!

What year and model is your soob? I can only speak for the old ones. On older cars in general, there's a switch in the buckle, two wires that run down under the carpet under the seat, there's a connector there, I'd check that first... If it's got automatic seatbelts that slide along the top of the window, that might be a little more difficult to check... I'd pull the bulb in the instrument cluster, but I'm a cheapskate... and also a fan of common sense... my thinking is do you really need a light to remind you to buckle up... like you're not going to notice a big double strap across your body? just my 2 cents tho.

-checks email and messages on USMB before 2nd cup of coffee- -reads 987687's post- -twitches- -runs out to car half naked to check- Yep it's a carbed ea82... I didn't think I could forget something that simple but hey we're all human right... I'd feel really stupid if I'd wasted everyone's time with the wrong information! UPDATE: In a way I sort of did, sorry >< read on... I got lucky today and found 2 Loyales and an '82 GLF, at the Knoxville TN pull-a-part. Never seen a GLF before in person, what a nice looking car that is. Of course all the cats were cut off as we expected, but I pulled what was left of the manifold off the GLF and one Loyale, bolt pattern's the same between the two, both 1.8's, so I'm pretty sure I have what I need to fix my car, yay. 4 single manifolds that are long enough to be welded easily and 4 good gaskets for $7.40, can't beat that. I was particularly impressed with the gaskets from the GLF, they appear to be stock and made of solid metal. Amazing to me that any gasket from a 30 year old car would appear to be reusable. Now these manifolds I got today look nothing like what's on my car, so I'm pretty sure a previous owner had a custom exhaust put on it. And a pretty bad one in my opinion. This is my fault for not taking pictures when I stated my problem originally, I realize now that if I had done that it would have prevented a lot of confusion I'm sure. I apologize for that. I'm going to a shop with a lift on Friday to weld it up, at that point I'll take pics of old and new, and some other things too. Then I'll see if I can find an image hosting service I can live with.

Alright guys like I said I appreciate any ideas and advice but I have to laugh since I've said some of this already I can weld, that's not an issue. I don't have a cat in my Y pipe, my cat is way back behind the crossmember. The 2 bolt flange isn't an issue, it's the flange that's bent on to the end of the exhaust pipe (manifold) at a 90 degree angle where it meets the head that's broken. Welding that to be strong enough and leaving enough room to allow for play in the 2 bolt flange for everything to line up right would be tricky at best, I'd say. This .080 flange is only about an eighth or quarter inch wide. From the top down it goes: head, manifold gasket, flange bent on to the end of the pipe, 2 bolt thick flange that squeezes all of that together. I'm on a budget. While I know there are competent exhaust shops that can make a custom exhaust that might work just fine, I can't afford that. I'm a do it yourselfer. That's why I'm looking around in junkyards (eliminated that possibility today) and pull-a-part yards... (will check on that option tomorrow) and asking about interchange possibilities from first gen impreza's and legacy's, (which there are plenty of close to me) and 987687 has informed me that isn't an option. I did ask about aftermarket (bolt-on) exhaust, (which I would install myself) because I'm seeing some kits for around $100. That's closer to my price range but still more than I want to pay just to fix one little tiny problem. A 4cyl exhaust manifold is $19 at a pull-a-part yard, how can you beat that? If I needed a whole new exhaust it would be different of course. So my main question has been answered. Thank you 987687. Tomorrow or at most by the end of the week we'll find out if a stock part can be reasonably obtained. Then I'll know whether or not I'm going to be deaf by the time I reach Seattle. :-p Again, I appreciate all your feedback, I tried to give as much detail as possible in my original post, and I probably should have provided pictures of my problem, that's my bad and I apologize. I'm still looking for a free image hosting site that doesn't have a time limit where they remove your pictures if you don't sign in for a while.

Well I spent the entire day visiting all the junkyards in my area, only one had a car that would have worked but the entire exhaust was gone... breaks my heart, the body was a lot nicer than mine. 987687, my cat is behind the crossmember a few feet behind the Y. The Y on my car is just two pipes welded together in a 90 degree intersection. And I guess I don't need an o2 bung, as it's a non feedback carb and non EFI? The cat has an o2 bung with a bolt in it, but I've never noticed any wires for an o2 sensor and it seems to run fine. I don't know, this is my first soob so maybe someone was in there doing modifications before I got it? Again it's a 1985 ea82 carbed GL wagon. Date of mfg is actually 10/84 but it's got the 85 body, so I guess it was one of the first 85 year models made. A buddy of mine has a 1984 GL sedan with an ohv 1.8 in it, I'm going to check it tomorrow to see if the manifolds are still good, although he parked it many years ago due to it needing an entire exhaust. Failing that, I'll be taking a 4 hour drive to the nearest pull-a-part yard that has soobs that match mine. At this point I'd even consider an aftermarket "performance" exhaust, anyone know of any that include the manifold pipes?

The great thing about old cars without serpentine belts is, all v-belts are pretty much the same, some are longer, shorter, some are wider, narrower. Any competent auto parts store will be able to provide you with a correct belt, if you say you need one an inch longer, or two, three, whatever, till you find one that fits. Then just make a note of which belt fits in your owners or repair manual and you're good to go. It's just a belt! And you definitely should not ever try to stretch a belt with a prybar. I went thru this recently while doing a tune-up on a DR string trimmer. Good luck! :cool:

Wow... and I thought I had bad luck! If the Hitachi will work, and it's easier and cheaper to get, why not use it? Both were made in Japan, at $100, even if it lasts half as long as the Denso, seems like a good deal to me. My 1985 ea82 GL wagon has Hitachi carb and distributor (original) with 169k miles. I understand wanting to keep it original, this is just my opinion. Good luck!