steve56

Your able to get t-belt around tensioner, water pump and toothe pulley, by only haveing the lower smooth idler pulley off. Ive never seen a manual or youtube video of that proceedure. I would really like to learn that method. If you have any documentation of that, please post it.

I do put the lower smooth idler pulley on last. That on goes on easily. Its the toothed idler that goes on next to last thats the problem. There never seems to be enough t-belt left after it goes around the water pump.

While RandR timing belts on Subaru engines I'm always struggling to get the toothed idler pulley back in. There never seems to be quite enough slack in the Tbelt . I can fight it for a hour, walk away, come back and somtimes it goes right on or not. Ive done enough belts that I know this has got to be a common problem. Have no idea what the solution is.

Thanks, Appreciate your insight. This was my first Jdm swap. Ive done other Subaru engine swaps where the crank and drivers cam pulley needed to be swapped. Should have taken more time and compaired the two engines pulleys.Slow down to work fast. Didn't do it one this one.

On 2005 OBW, swapped in a Jdm ej2.0 engne and used the original 2005 OBW ej25 intake. Get check engine light with p0340 dtc for (camshaft positionin sensor a circuit bank one).When I erase the code with car running it will immediatel shut off, then stumble for a minute on restart,then run apparently smoothly with the same p0340 check engine light comming back on. The Actron meters Freq Reported Fixes are: 1) Replace the crankshaft positioning sensor reluctor and 2) Replace timing belt tensioner. I did have to splice in the camshaft positioning sensor connector from the 2005 OBW because the JDMs cps connector was crushed. It was a two wire connector so I dont think it matters wich wire on the connector goes to which wire on the wiring harness. Looking for trouble shooting steps to get the p0340 dtc resolved.

Bring your car to shop that has an electronic HC gas tester. Car needs to be hot with bubbles in the overflow tank. Most importantly, you need to watch technition do the HC gas test. If the HC testers numbers increase you defindately have HCs in your cooling system.

Yes. Guy I was selling an engine to showed me a way similar to yours to hold the flex plate stationary. Is was so simple and effictive. Just cant remember what it was.

I dont understand your method.Could you be more specific.

Thats a method I was thinking about. It seemed kind of awkward to be holding the 22mm socket and wrench on the front of engine while trying to get the proper torque on the flex plates bolts with socket and torque wrench in the back of engine.

I found that I have tool you mentioned in Plan - C. It has the the thick bolts for the crank pulley with large holes. I need the thinner set of bolts for crank pulley with small holes. Don't seem to have the right size bolts to turn into the tool. Anybody know what size and thread pitch they are. I will call Company 23 in the morning if I dont come up with the correct ones tonight.

Looking for best method to stop the motor from turning while tourqing flex plate bolts to back of 2004 ej25 motor. Motor is out of car. I know there is a trick to doing it, can't rember what it is.

Just received the Beck/Arnley boot clamp kit. The instructions are:always thorougly clean out the CV joint before repacking with grease. Clean off excess gresse with rag then remove the remainder with warm soapy water. Dry thoroughly. Do not clean with any parts cleaner or petroleum based product. These will leave a deposit incompatible with the new supplied litium based grease.

Yes, he should have done that. Good point.

Yes, I saw that video. Unfortunately my clamps got too bent up to reuse. Great video though. Alot of good info. for someone like me that is doing CV work for the first time.

Is a heavy duty zip tie a permanent fix? It sure would be easier than the metal band and neede tool.

Buying a 2005 Legacy CV boot kit to replace the ripped inner boot.Whats the proper tool and proceedure for tightening new the boot clamps?

Yes. Put some assembly lube on converter nose and aligment dowels and used your 2x4 block method to raise the tranny. Engine slid in easily. Had a little trouble getting one of the 2x4 blocks out. Thinking about next time attatching a string to the 2x4 block with eye bolt to help get it out.

Before reinstalling the engine, is it a good idea tube the two flywheel aligment dowles and the center "nub" on flywheel, to make the engine and transmission slide together easier. Ive heard that it helps the engine and trans slide back together, but never seen it listed in the FSM. This is going to be a on person install, so I'm trying to make it as easy as possible.

Appreciate your input. They probably said the same thing and I just misunderstood them. I'm a rookie on the jdm swaps.

Im a little foggy on a few details, but the 07 Impreza has variable valve timing so I need to use those heads so the ecm will be compatable . According to my supplier in the Seattle area I can use a jdm 2.0 or 2.5 shortblock with the 07 heads. My supplier doesnt have any ej20 or ej25s newer than 2005 so none of them have the variable valve timing heads. I already have a jdm ej20 from them that I'm getting ready to install in a different 2005 OBW. That one is a direct swap with just using the 2005 OBWs intake.

The Legacy is an 05 and the Impreza is an 07. Both engines have spun bearings.The 07 be getting a Jdm 2.0 short block with its current heads, The 05 will be getting a Jdm 2.5 short block with its current heads.

Here is a picture of the different tooth profiles on T304(AA230) and T307(AA21B) timing belts. I'm rebuilding both a Legacy and Impreza. Legacy has two metal cam gears.Impreza has one metal and one plastic cam gear. I think they both engines use the same crank sprocket and toothed timing belt idler.I'm assuming the different Tbelt tooth profiles are due to the cam pulleys. If anyone knows please ad to post.

Thats what I was hoping was the answer. Thanks for verifing it.

My new Snapon Tech Angle torque wrench only goes down to 12.5 ft/lbs. The head gasket torque instructions have a 11 ft/lbs torquing step. Is it okay to torque to 12.5ft/ lbs. when instructions call for 11ft/lbs. Its the final step of instructions before the final 80 to 90 degree then another 80 to 90 degree tightening step.