steve56

Got 2002 ej25 from wrecking yard. Im doing a leakdowd test because car was in accident and timing belt came off. Ran good at wrecking yard after the belt was put back on. Noticed this sticker on the block. Is it a sticker put on after head gasket repair? Its not anything the wrecking yard did. Im also looking for verification on leakdown test procedure/results. Testing at 100psi. Timing belt on, rotating crankshaft until top of compression cycle on each cylinder. At 100psi on left guage I'm getting about 95 psi on right guage.

Don't like asking questions that have already been answered , but I just can't remember. Is an ej22 a plug and play swap with a 1998 Forester ,which has a ej25d.

Can you clarify were you are putting the small 2x4 blocks. I'n my scenario a thick piece of plywood the size of the trans pan is raising the transmission with a floor jack.

I do have the front end raised on two jack stands on the sub frame. I don't see any clear place to put my floor jack the transmission except for the trans. pan. When I removed the engine, the transmission and engine lifted together. I was able to put a jack stand under the transmission by the y exhaust pipe and the lower them which left the transmission at correct height to remove engine.

I need to raise my transmission a few inches to make reinstalling an engine easier. However there is no room to get a floor jack positioned to raise it.The sub frame and the y exhaust pipe are in the way. I have some thick plywood the size of the transmission pan that would spread the load across the whole pan if I put my floor jack under it. Is there a better way to raise the transmission. This is a 1999 Legacy that's getting a ej22 that I just resealed.

I'm resealing a 1997 ej22. The coolant crossover pipe o rings are flat. Are the supposed to be like that or are should they have a curved mating surface and these should be replaced.

Thanks for the clear and thorough explanation of the Subaru head torquing process and why its important to follow the service manual on this. I always like to know the reasons behind why certain procedures are called for. When to follow directions and when you have other options, like reusing oem head bolts.

Has anyone used the head gasket torquing method demonstrated by Mike Bauer on Youtube. Hes doing it on a ej25 but it should work on ej22 also. Step 1) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, draw all 6 bolts down to just snug on the head. Step 2) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, torque all 6 bolts to 11ft lbs. Check them a second time to make sure you have achieved 11ft lbs. Step 3) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, torque bolts one and two to 25 ft lbs. Step 4) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, turn All Six bolts 45 degrees twice....your done. This method is if your reusing head bolts, which most people do. His logic is the standard torque to 22ft lb, then torque to 51ft lb then back off bolts 180 degrees twice is not needed. The reason its not needed is because that procedure is assuming your using new head bolts that need to be stretched. Most people reuse head bolts, so they have already been stretched and cycled thru 100k miles of driving.

Yes That's obviously the the safest way. I'm wondering if anyone has actually done it the way I described. His Youtube video has a couple hundred thousand views. So there is a lot of interest in his methods. I wouldn't try it either unless I got some confirmation from the experts on this board.

I cleaned the threads on the bolts with a wire wheel on my bench grinder. I don't own thread chaser. Cleaned the bolt holes by filling with oil and scrubbing with a paint gun cleaner brush,then draining out oil and blowing out with air gun. Maybe I should ask this a new thread, but since this is about head gaskets, has anyone used the head gasket torquing method demonstrated by Mike Bauer on Youtube. Hes doing it on a ej25 but it should work on ej22 also. Step 1) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, draw all 6 bolts down to just snug on the head. Step 2) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, torque all 6 bolts to 11ft lbs. Check them a second time to make sure you have achieved 11ft lbs. Step 3) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, torque bolts one and two to 25 ft lbs. Step 4) Using regular Subaru torque sequence, turn All Six bolts 45 degrees twice....your done. This method is if your reusing head bolts, which most people do. His logic is the standard torque to 22ft lb, then torque to 51ft lb then back off bolts 180 degrees twice is not needed. The reason its not needed is because that procedure is assuming your using new head bolts that need to be stretched. Most people reuse head bolts, so they have already been stretched and cycled thru 100k miles of driving.

Yes I dipped the bolt in oil up to the washer, let the excess oil drip off and then installed the bolts.

Thanks for the tips. Yes I will let All of the oil drain out of the bolt holes before reinstall the head bolts.

I checked with Fel-Pro. They said 50-50 chance okay. Why risk it. I'm also trying to eliminate the creaking noise the head gasket bolts were making on first install. I've heard that's from lack of lubrication of head bolts. I dipped them in oil before install. Any thing else I could try. I know if the bolts are creaking there not getting the correct torque. While I'm waiting for a new CDI torque wrench from Amazon I'm leaving the head bolt holes full of oil while engine is on stand.

I was using a a new torquing tool to install a new Fel-Pro head gasket on 1998 ej22. I was getting too much creaking in the head bolts and was having a problem with new tool. I got out of torque sequence and had to take the head bolts back out and start over. Can I reuse the head gasket or need to get a new one.

Unfortunately the 1999 ej25d is a phase 1 engine. So yours swap was all phase 1 parts. The phase 2 uses some different sensors like map instead of maf. However I'm hoping there are only a few work around issues to overcome. I haven't found out what they are. Hopefully someone here has used the ej25d intake manifold wiring harness on a ej25 phase 2 engine. I don't want to swap it in and find out I wasted my time.

Well that clears that up. I have been swapping in ej22 phase one engines into the 1996 to 1999 obws. I guess that my only option. Its a good option though. I was just curious if there were any other options. The ej22 phase ones are getting harder to find with low mileage . I really don't like redoing head gasket on ej25dohc engines. I've bought quite a few 1996 to 1999 obws that have failed twice and the sellers just wants the car gone. Its been my experience that ej25ds are more trouble than there worth.

Have 1999 Legacy Obw with ej25 dohc engine with bad head gaskets. Can I swap in either the ej22 phase 2 or the ej25 sohc engine. I know the wiring harness attached to the intake manifold of the ej22 phase 2 and the ej25sohc are different from the wiring harness in the car now. Therefore can I use the ej25dohc intake manifold/wiring harness on the ej22 phase 2 or ej25sohc engine? That way the harness will match whats in the car now. To restate my question. Does a ej25dohc intake manifold attached to a ej22 phase 2 or a ej25sohc engine work correctly in a 1999 Legacy obw that had a ej25 dohc originally in the car.

Yes Its not simple I've been doing some phase 1 to phase one engine swaps and phase 2 to phase 2 engine swaps in several Subaru model cars The main problem seems to be if you swap a phase one engine into a car that previously had a phase 2 engine or visa versa. Mainly problems with the ecm and wiring harness compatibility.

I'm interested because I have two ej22 sohc phase1, two ej22 sohc phase 2, one ej25d dohc phase one, and two ej25 sohc phase 2 engines. Seems like many of the bolt on parts and the bolts are the same. I was hoping there was a list (sticky) somewhere that had already been compiled. My previous Subaru guru and neighbor has left the state. This is a good site for information, so I've been using it a lot in the last year.

Do all 1995 and up ej22 sohc and ej25 sohc use the same timing belt? I have a lot of extra good belts from both engines hanging around. I'm also curious on interchangeability of other bolt on parts like ac tensioner , timing belt tensioner and rollers, water pump ect. Is there a sticky on this somewhere?

Can I use the 95 style in place of the 98 style?

While removing the timing belt tensioner on 98 ej22 the the timing belt tensioner bracket stripped the m10x1.5 bolt hole that secures the tensioner to bracket. I got this engine as a replacement for 95 ej22 from purchased wrecking yard. The 95 ej 22 had stripped tensioner bracket and stripped water pump bolts. What tensioner / bracket will work for this 98 ej22. Repairing the bracket with Heli-Coil or Time Sert seems more than a new or used bracket. I have a tensioner/ bracket from the 95 ej22, but thats stripped too. Here are the pictures of my two stripped brackets.

Just picked this ej22 from wrecking yard. It has a 30 day warranty. Two of the six water pump bolt wholes are stripped. It looks like all six bolt holes have Heli-Coils. Whats the best option to repair or is it smarter to return engine. Its a nice low mile clean engine.

Thanks for the suggestions.I want to be able to safely support the engines and still be able to do a timing belt or head gasket right from the dolly. I've used carfreak85 method for storing the engine. Unfortunately you cant remove the heads using that storing method. If I can safely use the lower trans stubs and oil pan as support points for the engine as johnceggleston suggested, that would be great. I'm not sure what a lower trans stub is though. I've added a picture of an upside down ej 25 on an engine stand. Where is the trans stub in that picture?

I have several ej22 and ej25 engines stored on furniture dollies.They work great in the ability to move around shop. How can I safely keep the engines on the dollies in a position to store them and work on them without damaging them. Right now the motor mounts are supporting most of the weight of the engines on the dollies. However they are always either leaning on the dipstick tube support or on the thermostat housings and oil filter. I'm looking for better solution. Having the weight of engine supported just by oil pan or just by heads doesn't seem like a good idea. Setting the engine in a tire on the dolly makes the engine sink to low to work on it.The way I'm doing it now doesn't seem like a good idea either. The engine on blue carpeted dolly is sitting on motor mounts and dip stick support tube. The engine on the dolly with 4x4s is sitting on motor mounts thermostat housing and oil filter. Is the way I'm storing engines now damaging the water pump, oil pan dipstick tube or where the oil filter connects to engine. Or since the motors are light is this storage method okay.