steve56

Thanks for the link and tips on the ej22 heads on ej25d block

That's right thanks. I forgot I could just turn the cams independent of the the timing belt with 17 mm socket, for a leak down test. I have the pistons in the recessed position in the block.

Id be really interested in putting ej22 phase one heads on this ej25d. That sounds like a good use for the troublesome ej25ds that I've had over the years. Is there a comprehensive discussion thread on this topic that you know of?

Have ej25d Both passenger side cam gears disintegrated. All that's left is a few plastic shards around the cam gears. How do I hold whats left of the gear with enough force to remove the bolts. I want to put on some new cam gears and do a leak down test before pulling the heads off I"ve never seen this exact failure. Drivers side timing cover shattered with intact T belt visible. After pulling the center T belt cover found the sprocket below the water pump had failed. I bought car like this so don't know what the chain reaction was to failure. Both intake and exhaust cams on both sides turn freely.

Yes it looked a little "too' different. Guess I will take a look at the ej25d and see how many valves got bent. The head gaskets were done 30K miles ago. Maybe able to redo ej25d. I've also done several 95 to 98 ej22 phase one into ej25d. Might do that again. This car is a GT and was hoping the ej22 phase 2 would work. The ej22 phase one would be a little under powered for a GT

Have 1999 OBW automatic with with ej25d with broken timing belt. Going to put in ej22 phase 2 from automatic. Anyone do that swap. Things I've noticed so far are: Need single port exhaust yr pipe. Looks like I need to use ej25d intake manifold, because the wiring harness is different on ej22 phase 2. I dont see an egr pipe coming out of head an ej22 phase2.

It the two piece headlight and parking light The parking light comes out easily, the headlight looks like you have to remove the grill to get it out. I hope I missing something because the grill removal looks like I would end up with a broken grill.

I have a 2000 OBW with ej25 engine with no timing belt. Right now the key way on crank sprocket is at 9 o lock position.From what i remember The key way on crank sprocket needs to be at 6 o clock position to line up the cam sprockets and put the timing belt back on. How do I turn the crank sprocket to correct position with out the pistons hitting the valves. Also, are the pistons all the way in(safe position) when the key way is at 6 o clock and at 12 o clock. To clarify my situation. The timing mark on crank sprocket is at 3 o clock. The drivers side cam sprocket is under load, which I assume means some valves are open. As Fairtax4me stated, turning the the crank back a quarter turn should have the pistons moving back in. Am i understanding this correctly. I was also trying to understand why the passenger cam sprocket always seems to be unloaded (valves closed)when the timing belt is off.

Whats the FSM and where can I download it?

I pulled my IAC valve to clean it. I was having an idle from 2200 down to 1500 at start up. How does it work and can it be tested. There is an adjustable 3 wire piece on the top and a coolant connection at the base. So it must open and close by a combination of the temperature of the coolant running through it and a signal from the adjustable connection on the top. I'm looking for description of how the thing actually works and if it can be tested.

I haven't done swap yet I recently picked up a 2001 ej25 Im probably going to use that, and save the ej22 phase 2 for another project

I don't have anything from the original engine except most of the bolts from removing engine. My 01 ej25 is from an automatic. So I know I need a fly wheel. So i guess I need to pick up a crank sprocket and cam sprocket from 03 ej25 also.

I have a 2003 Legacy Sedan manual trans. with no engine. Trying to figure out what engines are compatible with the car I should ad I currently have two motors. An ej22 phase 2 which I think makes it a1999, and a ej25 from 2001 legacy.

Does anyone know how to remove the rear bumper cover on a 1999 Outback wagon. I have the instructions from the factory service manual, but they aren't clear. The bottom bolts are easy.To find the rest of fasteners I don't want to have take off or break off trim pieces that don't need to be removed in the first place.

I'm looking at buying 2004 Forester with blown engine (ran out of oil) What engines can be used. I have a ej251 and ej22phase 2 in my shop.

Yes I'm curious whether the 1996 thru 1999 ej22 timing belt covers will fit the 2000 thru 2004 ej25 sohs Like previous poster said the ej25sohc the passenger side middle and passenger side is all one piece. Where on the ej22 1996 to 1999 has three pieces.I think the 1999 plus ej22 phase 2 has the two piece timing belt cover. I don't know why Subaru changed from three piece to two piece. However it must be a fitment issue of some kind.

Which (years) timing belt covers will fit the 01 ej251 engine.

I have an 01 ej251 with no inner or outer timing belt cover. I would like to know the interchangeability of timing belt covers of 1996 plus ej22 and ej25 sohc engines.

I have 1999 OBW Neither front seats heat up. I pulled the power connector under both seats. They have 12.5 v and a good ground. So I have power and ground after the fuses and relays. The heater switches seam to work. I can turn on and off the 12.5 v signal at he connector under seats by turning the heater switches on and off. Checked the resistance on the female side of the connector. They both have 6 ohms resistance. I'm not sure what my next step in the diagnosis process is. Looking for ideas.

The ECU grounds the fan relay at 204 degree. Got it. I've taken the car on my normal drive cycle route. The temp. gauge never goes over half way between cold and hot. The drive cycle is about half an hour with mix of highway and local driving. That drive cycle usually gets other Subaru's fans to turn on this time of year. I'm not sure which thermostat is in there. I guess if I have no fans on at 204 degrees I will jumper the fan relay socket and if the fans come on I'll check to see if relays are closing I got engine to 204 degree while looking at live data on my scan tool and the fans turned on. Problem solved . Thank all.

I bought this car with severely over heated ej25d . I swapped in an ej22, and sold car to a friend. A few weeks later his son was driving the car and it started overheating. I bought the car back from my friend. I just started the diagnosis of the overheating issue . No hydrocarbons in the coolant. Did a cooling system pressure test and found a coolant hose leaking on the crossover water manifold. No more overheating so far. However I haven't seen the radiator cooling fans come on. The fans turn on when ac is turned on so I know they work. I haven't tested the fan relay yet. I thought the fan relays were under the hood. I realized that I really didn't really understand what the process was that operated the activation of the cooling fans. So the cooling temp sensor sends a signal to the ECU and then the ECU sends a signal to the fan relays? I guess my next diagnostic test will be to watch the live data for cooling temperature on my scan tool. If i see 200 degrees on the scan tool and no fans coming on I will jumper the relay plug and if that turns on the fan I will test the relays.

1999 OBW How are the radiator cooling fans activated. What sensor is sending a signal to turn them on/off?

Any recommendations on a fuel pressure tester? I only have a vacuum/fuel pressure tester that goes to 10psi on the pressure side. It looks like I can easily disconnect the fuel line on either side of the fuel filter, so I can test fuel pump pressure before and after the filter.

I'm working on mainly 95 to 04 cars with ej22 and ej25s I need an easy to use under the hood fuel pressure tester. There doesn't seem to be a test port on these engines. I'd like to buy or fabricate fuel pressure tester that can be quickly connected and disconnected under the hood, Looking for ideas to accomplish this task.

Correction: I'm correcting and re posting my original post because I was calling the (woodruff key) the key way. 1998 Subaru Legacy with ej22 I was changing my timing belt and front seals on 1998 Legacy with ej22 . When I took the crank pulley off I noticed that the (woodruff key) in crank crankshaft was sheared off even with the crank sprocket. It must have put some torque on the crank sprocket because the crank sprocket doesn't want to come off. Should I try s to force the crank sprocket off, try to drill out the key way, or just put it back together torque crank bolt back to 170 ft pounds and keep driving it. The crank seal is not leaking.