ibroad

No, I've personally never changed it and honestly I'm not sure if/when it was last changed. Do I need to do anything special if I decide to change the hoses as well? Or do I just depressurize it the same as if I'm just replacing the fuel filter and replace the hoses too.

I'm doing a lot of maintenance to my Outback since it just reached the 120K miles mark. Should I buy: 1) The original Subaru fuel filter for $27 2) The Wix fuel filter for $24 3) Some other brand that you recommend?

K, thanks a lot. I'll just get the V Powers!

So would these be alright to get? http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=1439 $10 for 4 seems pretty damn cheap.

Awesome. Thanks for the help. I'm also replacing the valve cover gaskets at the same time.

I'm replacing my spark plugs next weekend and I'm deciding between 2 types. My Outback is stock, 5 speed MT, 4 banger 1) Manual Recommended- NGK V Power (BKR5E-11) or 2) Forum Popular - NGK Iridium IX (BKR5EIX-11)

Thanks guys. I checked/cleaned all the ground connections and also cleaned the battery terminals/posts. I reset the check engine light and it hasn't came back yet.

Yeah, it probably was coincidence. And yes, both positions of the switch for the driver's side do not work. But the fact that for a few minutes the heated seat did work and the light on the switch did turn on (both directions), tells me that it is still capable of working but something is hindering it. I just don't know what the something is. It's not the fuse since the passenger side works.

The passenger's side heats up fine and the light on the switch turns on. But, the driver's side doesn't heat up and the light on the switch doesn't turn on. Last week my check engine light came on and I ended up taking the neutral off my battery to get the light to go away to see if it comes back. After I did that the driver's side seat heater seemed to work and the light on the switched turned on for a little while, but then it stopped working again. What could this be?

Nevermind. How easy was that? I just like asking you guys questions.

So I unscrewed the screws holding the black case on: http://bit.ly/10pcxdD But under the black case is a clear plastic thing that I believe the bulbs are in. How the heck do I open the clear plastic thing?

Thanks for the help. It's the 4 cyl 2.5L

My CEL came on last week, so I stopped by Advanced Auto today and got the codes read. It came back with the codes: P0065 Air assist injector solenoid valve malfunction P0137 Rear Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage P0138 Rear Oxygen Sensor High Voltage Has anyone dealt with these issues before? Does it make since that these codes would occur with each other? Where in the heck is the "Air assist injector solenoid valve?" Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks

BUMP Okay, so how do I know when all the air is out? Will the clutch always go back to the floor? Say all the air IS out and I open the bleeder valve, will the clutch still drop to the floor?

It was a joke, don't get your panties in a bundle. I've read not to use the brake booster line. My question was is the one used in the video above an okay one to use.

Okay, but what about the valve specifically shown in the video?

Sorry, I thought you guys were professionals I'll go ask over at a Toyota forum

Is this an okay vacuum line to add Seafoam through? I just want to make sure before I attempt it.

Okay, so how do I know when all the air is out? Will the clutch always go back to the floor? Say all the air IS out and I open the bleeder valve, will the clutch still drop to the floor? Thanks

I replaced my slave cylinder last week and I'm pretty sure I didn't get all of the air out of the line, but it's still functioning. I bled it for what seemed like forever, but eventually ran out of brake fluid. For the last bit I just had my friend pull the clutch off the floor and keep pumping it until it gained some pressure and then just closed the valve. I can shift, but I'm almost positive there is still air in the line. Can this cause damage to the slave or master cylinder?

I gave up. I'll try the hose another day. Does anyone know if I can just order the copper tubing, or whatever it is that the hose screws into? It'd be easier to just replace that.

Alright I was doing it to the left, I just didn't know if it was reversed since it's inside the other hose I still can't get it to budge