ibroad

GUYS! For the life of me, I CAN'T GET THE HOSE OFF! What am I doing wrong? And just to make sure ...I'm 99.9% positive I'm turning it the right way. Would I turn the inner bolt, to the left or to the right? ---

Yeah I'm not even going to take it back to them again. I'm just going to leave them a negative Google review ... that will teach them.

I will give that a shot! Thanks

*cough*

Thanks Dave Anyone else have any suggestions on how to get the hose off?

Okay, I made my first attempt and failed! I couldn't get the hose off the back where it connects to the master. I tried to loosen it with a wrench but it wouldn't budge. Any suggestions? I didn't want to strip the nut so I stopped. If I were to get the hose unscrewed, does it just slip out of the little frame that is holding it in place? I didn't think replacing the hose would be the hardest part

Is this something they should have done when I had the brakes/rotors replaced?

I had my rear brake/rotors changed recently on my '02 Outback and after I got it back from the place my damn park brake doesn't work anymore! I usually park on an incline at work and when I engaged the parking brake the car just kept rolling back. I brought it back into them and they said they fixed it, but it still does it! What the hell did they do?

How exactly does this work though? Do you just put the bolt through the hose and slave cylinder and just hold it in place with your hand? Because you obviously need the hose connected to the slave cylinder

How the heck do you do that? You're saying bleed it the normal way but just without the slave being bolted down? Thanks

No love for the noobs?

I'll be replace my clutch slave cylinder and hose tomorrow. When I unscrew the hose from the back part of the car, will the brake fluid just shoot out of there? Should I try to get all the fluid out of the reservoir before I remove the hose?

Would this slave cylinder work just as good as the genuine Subaru one? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_TECHnovation-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Perfection-Clutch_19340178-P_236_R%7CGRP60006_____

I'm ordering the parts as we speak. Is http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ a reputable website? The slave cylinder is $63 on there, compared with an aftermarket from Advanced Auto for like $30. Is the genuine Subaru slave cylinder better?

Thanks for explaining that!

You the man! Thanks a lot. I didn't charge the battery at all, so it was all the alternator. I guess I'll stop stressing now, all is well. Now I just have to fix the clutch .....so I'll probably be back lol

Awesome, thanks man. I actually haven't done the clutch repairs yet, probably next weekend. So I'm hoping the new hose and slave cylinder will fix the problem. For the battery, I just got back from AAA and they tested the battery with the type they bring to the car. If it starts acting up, I'll pull it and have it tested. The newest readings: Battery Test- Rated: 550 CCA Measured: 723 CCA Voltage: 12.77 V "Good battery" Cranking Test- Voltage: 11.37 V Amps: 80.9 A Time: 687 mS Charging System Test- "No Problems" No Load: 14.36 V Loaded: 14.3 V They basically told me the battery should be fine. So I guess I will take their word on this one. Now you don't think the alternator could have been damaged at all, do you? Thanks again.

Alright, I figured out the problem with some help. (Now keep in mind, I just had the alternator and battery replaced a couple months ago (4/28/2012)) I decided to go to Advanced Auto and get a battery/charging system test done, so I have something to bring into AAA when I go in tomorrow morning. Now, I got my rear brake pads/rotors replaced just last week (6/16/2012) at this same place AAA place. They did a free complete inspection and did a battery test and the results were as follows: Battery Test- Rated: 550 CCA Measured: 737 CCA Voltage: 12.82 V So as I was saying I went to Advanced Auto and they tested the battery/charging system. It came back with the following results: Battery Test- Replace Battery Rated: 550 CCA Measured: 401 CCA Voltage: 12.94 V Temp: 99 F Starter Test- Cranking Normal Voltage: 11.59 V Amps: 0.0 A Time: 812 mS Charging System Test- Low Voltage No Load- 14.30 V Loaded- 12.15 V "Charging System Problem" Now get this. The guy at Advanced Auto told me that obviously there was a problem and I should definitely go back to AAA and let them know. Then I told him I was reading it could be a problem with the ground on the alternator and so he started looking at the cables and pushing them all down. He got to the cable on the alternator with the green connector and he said "Did you see that?" He said that it wasn't pushed down all the way. So I wasn't sure if that was the problem, but I start heading home and there were no more flashing lights anymore and it is definitely running better! BUT Now what do I do? Is my battery ruined? Is the alternator ruined? Should I go back to AAA and have them replace the batter and alternator? Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to all of this and I know you guys know more than anyone. So what would you do in this situation? It was obviously a careless mistake on their part. Is 2 months of this enough to damage the alternator or battery? Picture of the green connector that wasn't secure: Thanks for any help

Alright guys, I could use some help. I have 2 different problems: Problem 1) There is something wrong with my clutch. When driving for around 10 minutes or more, the clutch will become very soft and doesn't spring back like normal. It's not really sticking to the floor, but it just does return to it's normal position. I actually made a post about this before and people mentioned to replace the clutch hose and slave cylinder which I plan to do very soon. I would just like to know if these problems could be associated. Problem 2) When driving my brake light and battery light flash, and today I just realized that when this happens my headlights flash as well. However, the headlights only flash when they are turn on automatically. So, if I actually turn the headlights on they will not flash. Only when they turn on automatically. Now I just had my alternator and battery replaced on 4/28/2012, so a couple months ago. Questions: 1) Could the flashing dash lights be a problem associated with the clutch? 2) Or could they have given me a bad alternator, or put it in wrong? Also, the flashing of the brake and batter light is not consistent. It's more sporadic. But it seems to be happening more and more. They gave me a battery test results when I got my brakes done last week and it came back at 12.82V, 737 CCA. But no alternator results. I'm really not sure what to do.