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Dee2

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Everything posted by Dee2

  1. Dee2
    Put a vacuum gauge on it and see what the readings are. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
  2. Dee2
    check to see if fuel comes out at the filter when you crank the engine.
  3. Dee2
    Unless you are comfortable fixing brakes, go to another mechanic and get a second opinion
  4. Dee2
    Did your mechanic take a test drive to hear the noise ?
  5. Dee2
    raise the wheel off the ground. grab the tire at the 6 and 12 o'clock position and rock it back and forth. If you feel any movement or hear any klunking, it's a bad bearing. If not a bearing, put a pry bar under the tire and lift up and down. If you hear a klunk or feel any play it's likely a ball joint problem. Could also be an axle problem. If you start to hear any clicking sounds when driving or turning it's the axle. Could be a brake related noise but not enough info to tell.
  6. Dee2
    Mine were difficult to turn in and I had to buy a key.
  7. Dee2
    I didn't lift the engine to remove the oil pan on mine. The trick is to remove all bolts then turn the pan 180 degrees so the drain plug faces the drivers side, instead of the passenger side, then it can be maneuvered off the engine.
  8. Dee2
    You might try over torqueing the axle nut a little. I did for mine to stop excess noise and it helped.
  9. Dee2
    replace the pump - search for a used one as I understand new ones are nearly impossible to find.
  10. Dee2
    +1
  11. Dee2
    I've changed belts on mine without pulling the engine. Once I got the belt covers off. I left them off. I didn't remove the radiator either.
  12. Dee2
    brake booster line is typically used.
  13. Dee2
    backfiring can be a strong indicator of a timing problem. Stick a vacuum gauge on it and see what it tells you.
  14. Dee2
    Why not keep it if you get another ? I've had mine since 91 and also have a truck. I mainly keep the Subie as a backup vehicle.
  15. Dee2
    I got mine through Amazon. Google it and other sources are also likely available
  16. Dee2
    I used the Bosch WR1 Starter Relay kit, as have others. Comes prewired with diagrams and instructions and everything needed and ready to hook it up, about $20 I also replaced the starter contacts on mine which were badly worn. There are some videos on youtube for doing this. Contacts are available on line or through the dealer. Prices vary widely, $2 to $20.
  17. Dee2
    Belt lengths only allow it to fit in one pulley combination. Whatever you have now will have to remain as is. Whatever is not using a belt now will have to wait until you get another one in the right size.
  18. Dee2
    correct. The serpentine type belts I referenced are the timing belts which I thought you were referring to. There are also two conventional accessory v-belts which run the AC etc.
  19. Dee2
    There are 2 belts for the ea82 this video shows the belts and how to install
  20. Dee2
    Replacing the oxygen sensor can help improve mpg. Also, check your plugs and make sure they are clean and sharpened flat.
  21. Dee2
    +1 You may have a hairline crack in the cap, so you should check for that too.
  22. Dee2
    Sounds like a mine which I am diagnosing as a lifter tick. noise.mpg Mine was much worse and I did the following which helped reduce the noise significantly. With the dirty oil still in the engine (less 1 qt.), do an engine oil flush. Then change the oil and replace filter. Add new oil with auto, trans. fluid at oil/ATF ratio of 3:1 Run that for about 100 miles and see if the lifter frees up. If there is a significant reduction in noise, you can try a second oil flush at the 100 mile mark when you do the change again. If you don't have any success then you are looking at finding the side with bad lifter noise and replacing the lifters. I found some at RockAuto for $10 ea. I haven't done the replacement yet.
  23. Dee2
    I can't see any cracks so I'm thinking the problem was the head gasket. Others may need to comment also to see if there is consensus.
  24. Dee2
    Try http://www.rockauto.com
  25. Dee2
    Passenger side front cylinder is #1 Drivers side front cylinder is #2 Passenger side rear cylinder is #3 Drivers side rear cylinder is #4 On the distributor you will hook up the leads counter clock wise in this succession #1 #3 #2 #4 #1 cylinder on the disty cap is the one that faces rearmost to the firewall. its will be closest to the clip or screw for the cap on the back side. the screw will be slightly to the right of the #1 connection the rotor rotates counter clockwise,
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