Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Dee2

Members
  • Posts

    863
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Dee2

  1. I assume there is a brake booster. Most vehicles have one. It's the big round thing by the brake master cylinder. Google "subaru leone brake booster" and look at the images to see what it looks like. There is a rubber hose coming off the booster that goes to the engine. Disconnect it from the booster, plug it and then see if the problem is resolved.
  2. Could be a short somewhere in the electrical system. Somehow the brake may be triggering the problem. Has there been any electrical work done on the car recently ? Any other changes or events occurring before the problem started? One other possibility is the vacuum line to the brake booster. Disconnect it from the engine and plug it and see if the brake problem still occurs. Could be a problem with the brake booster
  3. Is the brake pedal/arm tangled against any wires under the dash ?
  4. A good locksmith should be able to make keys. They may need the VIN from the parts car to do it.
  5. Run a simple vacuum test. That can tell you a lot about the health of the engine. Depending on the results other tests can follow to help find the cause of your problem.
  6. I think you nailed it . Given the time of year and distance, I would lean towards renting a truck.
  7. Looks like you're on the right track to me. Compression looks ok. Vacuum test is good cross check. Oil problem is odd, just keep regular checks on it for a while to see if it comes back. If other problems get worse deal with them based on new information.
  8. Where have you tried so far ? Subaru dealerships may be able to help. RockAuto online is usually a good source for most parts. A google search almost always turns up something. Many parts stores will special order, may take longer and cost more. Your local salvage yards are an option. Did you check the "for sale" ads on this website ? Sometimes folks part out vehicles.
  9. Another option is to do a wet/dry compression test. If the wet test is higher than the dry test you have a ring problem. If the results are comparable you have a valve problem.
  10. How many miles are on this engine ?
  11. Sounds like you isolated the problem. Something must not be hooked up right. Did you confirm DaveT's suggestion about the two lines ?
  12. Please upload all photos to this forum, otherwise they disappear over time anyway. Photobucket won't let me zoom in on the engine photo so I can't tell what is there or not. My green connector has only 1 tab. The buttons on my dash are, from top to bottom: -Defrost -Heat -BiLevel -AC/AC Max -Off
  13. If it runs when you put gas down the throttle body and it doesn't run when you don't, then the fuel is blocked somewhere in between the fuel pump and the throttle body. You will need to start backtracking from one end to find the blockage. Unhook the fuel line from the discharge end of the fuel filter and, with some help, see if you get flow when trying to start the car. If you do or don't get fuel flow you know which direction to pursue.
  14. The two problems of compression and oily air filter may be independent.
  15. I had that problem of oil in my air filter and air intake. Turned out to be the oil pump was leaking and the oil coming out from around the pump was being sucked up into the air filter while I was driving. Repaired the leak and haven't had any problem since. Look around for leaks,
  16. When you refilled your tank with new gas did you go to a different station or stay with the same station ? Bad gas can be a problem with the source. Your comment that it got better for a while indicates you might be buying from a cheap source. I had this type of problem many years ago. Changed purchase location and problem never returned. Now I only buy from shell, mobile or chevron. Also make sure you are not getting anything higher than E10 ethanol content with good octane levels. These old engines don't like cheapo gas.
  17. Could very well be the fuel pump. It's not uncommon for pumps to wear out on these older cars. I had to replace one on my 90 Loyale . Not a big job as I recall. Sometimes if you rap on the pump with something like a screwdriver handle it will get the pump going again. If that is the case then definitely the pump needs to be replaced.
  18. If it 's not getting fuel can you work your way back through the fuel system and check for blockage or failed components ?
  19. Old tanks are just that, old tanks. Not always wise or safe to be cutting or welding on them. Rarely worth fixing them. If a tank is failing, my recommendation is get a new one and properly dispose of the old one.
  20. Good job! Glad things are working. Thanks for the followup.
  21. I'm familiar with ea82, so if yours is an ea81 then here's an ea81 oil pump reseal video
  22. This may help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73038-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/page-2?do=findComment&comment=629117
  23. At some point all these old engines need to be resealed, including the oil pump seals. You can replace those and probably the front cam and crankshaft seals now and do more later. Or you can pull the engine and do them all the seals at once. Lots of threads on this forum about resealing engines with photos. Even some videos on youtube to watch also, search for MilesFox.
  24. There's almost always a drop of oil hanging from the pressure sensor so that is not a definitive clue. You'll likely have to add some oil, start the engine and look underneath to see where the leak is originating. The motor is not necessarily damaged. These old engines are commonly low on oil from leaks and will make noise until they get refilled. If they don't get refilled, yes they will seize.
  25. Here's a couple sets of photos which may show what you need. http://www.dirally.com/forums/showthread.php?2726-ea82-Oil-Pump-R-amp-R http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134867-1984-gl-18-oil-pump-rebuild-service/?do=findComment&comment=1135309
×
×
  • Create New...