Dee2

Chances are very high that the first test results were bogus. In general 4 cylinder engines rarely fail the test and these old sube's are almost always a sure pass.

Did you replace the tension and idler pulleys at the same time . Chances are one of them is bad.

Here's a guide to replacement axles http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73038-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/page-2?do=findComment&comment=629117

Just out of curiosity, did you sharpen and regap the plugs before reinstalling them ?

That's about normal for these engines and their gauges.

Must be something loose somewhere. Take off the wheel, check the tire and check the brake.

If it starts when you reconnect the battery then the problem is most likely the cables/terminals. I would start by cleaning the terminals as previously suggested. Then recharge the battery before doing a test for it's condition. Once battery and cables are eliminated, if problem persists then look into alternate sources. Does the '94 model have a relay on the starter ? Models without the relay can often solve starting problems by adding a simple relay. That solved my starting problems. If it already has a working relay then I would pursue possible problems in the park neutral switch; then the ignition switch.

Yes, since it started working again after banging on it simply tells you that the pump needs to be replaced.

Try rapping on the fuel pump with something like a screwdriver handle. Sometimes it will get it going again. If the problem persists then you may need a new fuel pump. Lines could also be fouled but unlikely. I've let mine sit for two years and it still fired up with new fuel.

Hard to say for sure, because of the photo angle, but it looks like the adjustment bracket is the piece going across the top of the alternator.

You should really get the right size socket and a torque wrench to go with it.

It indicates your timing is off. Have you put a timing light on it ?

Sometimes it helps to know the recent history of the vehicle. --Were there any modifications or repairs done recently ? --Did you start buying fuel at a new location ? --Is this a carb or injector engine ? --Have you checked the engine and transmission fluid levels ? --Is the air filter clean ? --Anything you can add will help

Check all of your spark plug wires and your coil wires to make sure they have clean connections and are firmly seated.

I have not tried capping off vac lines to narrow down a leak yet. Maybe tomorow after work I will try that. A vacuum test is easy to do and can help you diagnose engine problems and tell you a lot of information about the health of your engine. YouTube has plenty of info on how to use/read a vacuum gauge. http://youtube.com/watch?v=SdlNwm8OHco?version=3

The amount of modifications being described seem like opening the door to huge problems. You seem to have a really decent car. Wouldn't be simpler to just buy a decent turbo and restore it to primo condition, then sell the unit you have ?

Definitely sounds like a fuel problem to me but it could also be electrical or perhaps a clogged cat. This article should help you diagnose the problem. http://www.salemboysauto.com/faqs/faq-51.htm

"So, I suppose I will start with changing the plugs and go from there." I would start by changing fuel. Make sure you're getting a good octane level with no more than 10% ethanol.

"it is still acting like it has a massive vacuum leak and a misfire and I am at a complete loss as to what it could be." Did you ever run the vacuum test to verify if the problem is in fact a vacuum leak ? A vacuum test is easy to do and can help you diagnose engine problems and tell you a lot of information about the health of your engine. YouTube has plenty of info on how to use/read a vacuum gauge.

Replacing the O2 sensor will usually give you a bump in fuel mileage.

what are you getting for gas mileage now ?

Just out of curiosity, how did you determine a misfire on cylinder 3 ?

You say there is a misfire on cylinder 3 and the spark plug is not firing correctly. I recently had a misfire problem on my truck and found the plug had carbon tracks on the outside. This can cause a misfire and requires replacing the plug and wire. Check the plug carefully and see if there is any black sooty carbon tracking on the outside of the plug. If it isn't the plug, then misfires can also be caused by compression problems, valve problems. I would start with a vacuum test to see what I could learn. If something is revealed then follow up on it. If nothing is revealed then do the compression checks and see if the problem is cylinder or valve related or neither.

Any computer codes ?

I think the key words are "idle surge". This can come from many possible sources. A good article for diagnosing is here: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-surges