Dee2

+1

try here http://www.fillernecksupply.com/servlet/the-Filler-Hose-Elbows/Categories

Here's a possible source http://www.fillernecksupply.com/servlet/StoreFront

I keep the model information in my signature The good news is I found the problem. A vacuum line from the intake manifold was disconnected. Reconnected it and all is well. Wish I had found that before I removed the blower. Thanks for replying.

There's no air coming through through the front defroster vent, leaving me with a very foggy windshield. Blower works and plenty of air from the mid level and floor vents . I took the blower out and there's nothing I could see blocking the air passages in the box above it. Any ideas how to investigate this ?

Good to hear about your experience.

Thanks for the tip, I'll limit the length of coverage on the treads.

My oil-pressure sensor always seems to leak around the threads where it screws into the oil pump. I'm going to try some of that plumber's teflon tape on the threads. Maybe that will stop the leak.

You verified that the distributor rotor is spinning when the engine is cranking ?

I agree with others, this is very likely a dirty carburetor problem

Replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket and grommets, (used Altrom from NAPA, excellent OEM replacement.) valve cover removed new gasket installed in clean cover Installed new O2 sensor.

You might want to read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_fuel_enhancement

Hard to say. Could be corrosion on contacts or bad wiring. Won't know unless they are inspected. If you can, check fuses, continuity on wiring and visual inspection of switches.

Could be bad switches for both the defrost and the turn signals

Hmmm, worked for a month then problem started up again. I wonder if your alternator is keeping the battery fully charged ? Also, I'm curious how many cranking amps your current/good battery is rated at ?

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm going to try the Altrom if NAPA will order them in for me with the grommets because I didn't see the grommets listed in the NAPA ad. If not, I'll fall back on getting them from Subaru. May not have to move on this right away. I was out checking the car to make sure I had some tools that could reach all the bolts and I discovered that the passenger side cover had one very loose bottom bolt At first I thought the head of the bolt was badly rounded because wrench didn't seem to bite, but then I saw it was just hanging out away from the cover by over two full turns and the wrench was just spinning the bolt in place. Oil has been weeping from around the bolt. Fortunately, the cover was still stuck to the cam. Otherwise oil would have been dripping/running out steadily. This is the side with the most oil mess so I tightened it up and I'm going to watch it for a while to see if I'll get lucky and have solved my problem. The driver side seems pretty clean.

I am thinking of redoing the valve cover gaskets. Anybody familiar with Altrom gasket quality ? I know their seals are very good. NAPA had no info other than the listing, so I thought I would ask. NAPA also doesn't stock them so I can't go look at them.

Hmmm, the screwdriver didn't line up thru the holes but the socket on a swivel with a 1/4 in extension did the trick. I cleaned up some of the oil mess and hopefully be able to see if there are new leaks.

I found this http://www.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_fuel_pump_relay_located_on_a_1992_Subaru_Loyale

similar discussion here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/88192-loyale-will-not-start-no-fuel-to-engine/

Picked up my new O2 sensor today. Decided to just go with a full wire Bosch, same as what was in there before. It was available locally. Put it in, got everything reassembled, cleared the old codes and fired up the car. No more CEL. Also, just before I started getting the CEL, I noticed the engine was surging a bit when idling. Now, with the new sensor, no more surging As for the manifold stud, I just put it back in as it was. I thought about using loctite but wasn't sure. Glad to know it can be used. I'll probably watch it for a while. If it loosens up, I'll redo it with loctite. A little side task, I noticed the bolts on the oil pan were all loose, so I snugged them down with a phillips screw driver, (except the back few I can't get to). Hopefully that will help resolve some of the oil mess I found under the car. Thanks for the feedback, it makes the job a whole lot easier, and now it's done!

So I've been digging out the old sensor. --disconnect the battery --raise car, set on jack stands --disconnect sensor wire from harness --remove heat shield around sensor --spray sensor with penetrating oil --remove heat shield around exhaust manifold to engine --disconnect manifold from engine had one problem occur, a manifold stud came out on one side. Not sure how much of a problem I've created there. --pry heat shielding away from top of sensor area --remove sensor with 22 mm open end wrench and pipe extension Lots of white ash on the sensor.... After inspecting the wire, I found a few spots where the casing had been worn through, which I now think caused the trouble code. Not sure how to test these units but it's probably overdue for replacement anyways.

The old CEL came on today and when I checked the code I got 32 - Oxygen sensor. This will be the first for me on this old car. Doesn't look too bad I can see the sensor is located below the passenger side axle with an orange wire running up to a plug above the transmission. Any tips on replacement brands or will any brand do the job ? Special tools look to be required because of the wire, or can I do this with an open end wrench ? Any warnings/tips on what I'm going to break along the way ?

When I did mine on a ea82 90 loyale it was pretty simple. Just disconnect the battery first. The fuel tank line to the pump is gravity fed. Mine had 3 bolts and the power connector to remove.

I had this problem happen to me. I couldn't find the short so what I did was to find all exposed wiring and sheath it in the split corrugated tubing. That was enough insulation to keep the wire from shorting out and my problem was solved.