Dee2

Carburetor or fuel injected ?

At 260k, with the problems described, I would suspect the trouble is the fuel pump.

Okay, I will drain nothing, prepare for the flood, disconnect the battery and hopefully get 'er done.

Thanks, I thought I was going to have to drain the radiator since the hoses are connected to it. Sounds like I don't have to drain anything. Apparently, the transmission lines must be connected to independent tubing inside the radiator. When I disconnect the hoses from the radiator, it sounds like the transmission fluid in the hoses will drain back into the transmission. Am I correct on these assumptions ?

There are two coolant hoses coming off the side of the radiator, on the drivers side, that run alongside the battery back to the transmission. I see no reference to them in the manual, but mine look rather dodgy and due for replacement. Would help to know their correct name and tips about replacing them before I start taking things apart.

New wiper blades, fuel filter and o-rings under the power steering pump reservoir.

So I put in the o-rings, I put in two instead of just the one, I'll see how that works. Hopefully, this will solve my steering pump leaks, time will tell. Took it out for a test drive and all seems good. I'm calling this job done. As a side note, I had a wire bundle behind the pump that was covered in plastic corrugated tubing. When I touched it crumbled like a cracker. So I had to run to the store and get some new tubing so I could get it covered while it was exposed. It's amazing how brittle some of this old plastic gets. As always, thanks for the help, it made the job much easier.

You seem to have a bad oil leak somewhere. Leaking oil is being sucked into the air filter. You'll need to find it. Typically it can be on the front end caused by bad cam, crankshaft seals or oil pump gaskets/seal. You're pump may not be damaged by low oil levels but an inspection of the pump may tell more.

So the hose trick was not getting me anywhere. I did have excellent success with using a pump head and tube off a glass cleaner bottle. Got it all out. Got the res. off, no spillage Now the o-ring seems to have a cone shape. Is that a specific type of o- ring or is it just shaped that way from years of installation ? Anyone know the specific size for replacement? Also, it almost looks as though there are supposed to be 2 o-rings: One around the nipple on the reservoir, which is where the original one was found: And a second in a groove on the pump

I'll get some small hose and try that.

Yes EA82, I need to get that in my signature. I was hoping not to dump remaining fluid all over the engine which I suspect will happen when I lift the reservoir off the pump ? Sounds like I just have to make a mess.

Looks like I have a leak from the power steering. I'm guessing/hoping it's the o-ring under the reservoir. Is there supposed to be a drain plug to empty the reservoir somewhere or another way to empty the reservoir before removing it. My turkey baster siphon doesn't seem to work in the funky shaped reservoir.

Seals are in, oil pump is back on, tensioners and idler replaced. Everything has been reassembled. Timing belts were put back on and I left the covers off, refilled the oil and turned the key --- fired right up and ran smooth Took a quick test drive, power seems the same, so I'm going to call it done. Thanks for all the help folks, it made the job a lot easier. Just a note for those considering no covers, be sure to check for wires dangling close the camshaft pulleys. Once the covers were off some wires were a little too close for my comfort zone. A couple of zip ties solved the problem.

Dumb question #4 I'm not having much luck reinstalling the oil pump. Mickey Mouse gasket keeps slipping off when I try to install the pump. What tricks are used to keep it in place during assembly? Dumb question #5 Does the pump need to be primed after installation?

Finally, the seals arrived today. They are sold by FelPro, under National brand name, made in Mexico. They look to be a little less sturdy than the NOK, but still look sufficient, so I'll give them a try. Also, while waiting, I took off the oil pump because it was coverd in oil and I thought it was leaking too and wanted to see how bad the gaskets were worn. Surprisingly, the micky mouse gasket and O ring appear in great shape - both were soft and rubbery. I'll replace them and the seal anyway since the pump is off. Hopefully it's not to hard to get back on My concerns about coverless are oil spills while refilling oil or filters not on tight and possibly power steering pump leaks.

"no power spits spudders back fires.." Sounds like a timing issue to me. I would take a break and then review the timing component settings when the normal frustration level has passed.

I'll look closely at the seals when they arrive. If they look dubious I'll pick some up from the Subie dealer. The old seals are NOK. Only one is weeping a very small amount of oil. The seals are hard but not brittle. I ordered the FelPro crankshaft and cam seals from Rock Auto. Slow delivery. Good tip on the zip ties. The old belts actually look surprisingly good shape. Since changing the timing belts themselves isn't a big deal, I may just put them back on and run coverless to see how that goes. Dumb Question #3: Is there any reason not to install the cam seals while the cam holders are off the car instead of installing the seals back in after the holders are bolted back on ?

No, but they do say made in the USA. Dumb question #2 trying to get the front belt covers off, okay except for 2 bolts. One bolt is rounded and the other is simply spinning in place and won't unscrew. Any suggestions, (besides bust off the covers )? Update: Got the rounded head bolt off. The ear on the cover for the spinning bolt broke off in my efforts to extract the bolt, but the front covers are off.

So I ordered the belts kit and it arrived, still waiting for seals to arrive so I thought I would start disassembling things in the meantime. First time for me to do the belts and the seals, so I'll have lots of dumb questions. Got the oil drained, accessory belts off, fan shrouds off, electric fan removed. Dumb question #1, how does the clutch fan get removed, since everything spins freely ? Is there a trick to locking the fan down to remove the four bolts on the water pump pulley? ah HA, I see the shaft on the pump is square ! Never mind...

Passenger side front axle outer boot ruptured so I decided to replace the whole axle since it had been in there for several years and I suspected it to be the remaining source of the front end noise. Replacing it finally got rid of all that annoying noise. All smooth running and quiet now. Turned out the shop that did the axle last time had put in the wrong axle type !

Crank angle sensor is part of the distributor from what I've read. Is the distributor turning when you crank the engine ? If not then check your timing belts. Otherwise, try cleaning all contacts in the distributor and try clearing the codes and see if you can get a different or same reading. Same readings ? Try replacing distributor cap and report results.

There are lots of engine compartment photos on this forum, you may need to do some searching. Generally carburetor replacement and timing belt replacement have photos. Here's some good pics from an engine rebuild: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129404-pulling-engine-etc-through-the-eyes-of-a-noob/?hl=%20pulling%20%20engine%20%20through%20%20eyes%20%20noob

here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-TCK299-Timing-Belt-Component-Kit-/291201677097?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ccf8f729&vxp=mtr

ACDelco TCK299 Timing Belt Component Kit Anybody recommend this brand for EA82 engine. Looks like low price is available on ebay ($75 w free shipping) and I was thinking of doing the front seals and belts for my '90 Loyale

My Loyale did the same thing. I replaced the starter contacts and that solved my problem, cheap and easy. Make sure you have a good battery too, with enough cranking amps. Old batteries, or cheap batteries, just don't put out the necessary amps as they age. This is why a jump start works, it supplements the weak battery and overcomes the poor contacts with lots of amps.