Dee2

Definitely sounds like a fuel problem to me, When cars do the hurt dance that's my clue. Try the simple fixes first. I had a similar problem and it was the fuel pump going out. The car would sometimes start, sometimes not. Sometimes it would run fine then suddenly act like it was running out of fuel then just quit. If I rapped on the pump with a screwdriver handle a few times I could get the car going again. Picked up a cheap replacement pump from a boneyard and problem solved.

normally bad struts produce a klunking sound over bumps. a "rumbling" noise seems more likely a tire problem, perhaps balancing it would help ?

To check the bearings, grab the top of the tire and push/pull hard towards and away from the car. If you get the klunk klunk sound, you need new bearings. There should be no play in the wheel when pushing or pulling on the tire. You can do this with the car on the ground.

I would not drive it with one broken wheel brake. If you have a salvage yard nearby, perhaps get a whole brake replacement from there ?

similar problem discussed here -- could be one of many sources http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5889/low-speed-vibration-not-in-the-steering Other diagnostic clues would be if you feel the vibration in the steering wheel or just the seat of the car.

loose or broken brake parts could be slopping around in the drum causing the noise. Good time to look for rocks or other debris that may have found their way in You'll have to pull the wheel off and look for loose/broken parts. Stuff happens and the only way I know to resolve noise problems is to start digging in to find the source. If it's not the brakes or debris check your struts.

brakes ?

Did you check the main switch ?

Look thru the electrical diagrams to identify all switches and relays. One of them is toast. Maybe the switch to turn on the AC is out.

Welcome, and yep that's a lot to absorb. But that's Okay. It does help to focus on a specific issue so we can offer suggestions. Pics are always a plus. As far as I know, timing should be steady.

They do nest in the heater, so you'll want to disassemble that and clean it thoroughly.

Great write up. Some photos aren't appearing but we get the idea. thanks for the humor and tips.

Unless you're totally bored, I think things like resurfacing heads should be left to machine shops -- right along with turning rotors and honing cylinders, etc.

these old engines are safe up to E10 . More than 10% is beyond their tolerance and could cause problems.

time for a tune up ?

That's normal for these cars. I don't think you have a problem.

So, I gave up on the radius rod but the good news is I was able to tap the bearing into place while it was on the car. I put in the seal and it looks good. I was able to reinsert the new axle into the cavity without dropping the control arm and I was able to start the axle through the bearings. I had to remove bolt 4, the steering knuckle. Turns out it was quite easy and I should have done that in the first place -- live an learn. With 1,2 and 4 open, the axle install on the trans. stub was no problem. Pulling the axle through the bearings was tough, as expected. Got everything reassembled, torqued down and took a test drive. Got rid of an old grinding noise but there is a new slight squeaking noise. I think I'll leave it for now, drive a while then re-torque the axle nut and see what develops. thanks for the help and tips.

Progress ! That's always a good feeling

Sounds more like an timing/electrical problem to me. Have you checked your timing belts ?

Well the 2 radius rod bolts don't budge, even with a breaker bar and lubricant. I can't recommend that step. Appears I will have to go back to the long route, no shortcuts, and completely remove the cast knuckle from the car in order to seat the bearing. There's just not enough room to work underneath and this bearing does not want to go in easily.

I have an 82AC on the other side. This is the type called for with FWD 4-door sedan and AT. So, I am going to put the same on this time too. But it is good to know that others work equally well. The failed boot was one I put on about 2 years ago. I am disappointed it didn't last longer. Even the edges of the boot were showing a lot of cracking/weathering and general deterioration. Hopefully, this replacement will last a bit longer.

I think I have salvaged the bearing so I can reuse it. I will have to replace the inner seal. The reason for this project is that the outer boot split open, but when I looked closer at the axle, I also found that the old axle is not exactly correct, it is type 87AC and this vehicle should be using 82AC so I will not be rebooting but rather replacing the axle. Found a new axle at Cost Less Auto for $52 with lifetime warranty. Has the same part number (SB-8003) as Oreilly which lists it for $60. Tough part now will be to put back in the bearing and seal. I'm hoping not to have to remove the hub assembly off the car.

..."and the car died" Sometimes it helps to know how it died. Suddenly, could mean an electrical problem or timing problem. Slowly with a hurt dance, could mean a fuel related problem. With a lot of noise, could mean a mechanical problem.

My bad I understood what you meant but used a wrong reference. I did follow Gloyale's method this time.

Well, I removed 1 and 2 and got the axle out. Not too bad to do it this way. Next time I may try just removing 3. I do have another dilemma though. The inner bearing came out with the axle and I doubt if I can salvage it without making it unusable. So, I will plan on putting new bearings/seals in also. Since I only removed bolts 1 and 2, am I going to be able to put the bearings in or should I plan on removing the whole dang thing ? This is what I did last time which is why I was hoping to find a shortcut this time.