Dee2

probably high because your measure relied on guessing the end point of fuel consumption was the same as starting point.

Was the replacement pump a new off the shelf pump or a "new to you" pump from a salvage yard ? I ask because it seems the problem is stil the pump. You might try changing the filter out to see if that helps, but all signs still point back to the pump based on what you've described.

Depends on how it died: --Suddenly, no noise or stuttering, then likely an electrical problem --did a hurt dance when it died, then likely a fuel related problem --died with a clunking or loud noise, then likely a mechanical problem (probably not applicable because yours still cranks) still cranks but won't fire up. indicates either no spark to the plugs or a possible fuel pump failure. --check the plugs for spark --rap the fuel pump with handle of a screw driver then try restarting . sometimes that will get the pump working again ( may take more than one try). if the car starts then the pump should be replaced.

Could be some bad fuel, happened to me once. Changed fuel stations and got a huge improvement in performance. Or maybe just needs a tune up. check plugs for condition, timing, etc.

I doubt if cranking will produce a reading. I think it has to be running.

sounds like a fuel problem to me. Sounds like you have checked most of the system, have you checked the fuel pump ? Next time it doesn't want to start try rapping the fuel pump with the handle of a screwdriver a few times. if the car starts it is likely time to replace the pump. (may take more than one try). I had this problem with my car and struggeld to find the cause. A Subaru mechanic showed me that test and I was able to verify the source and solve my starting problem.

probably the only place to get a wiring diagram for that model is in one of the Chilton manuals. You might find a copy online, if not, a library would be a good choice. If you're palnning to keep the car and work on it into the future, I think owning a manual would be a good investment.

Excellent listing. Hope this gets finalized for all to use.

thanks, I'll try to translate this to my starter.

I see the images for the article on "roundies" but I didn't find any wiring diagram images. Is there another link ?

probably the oil pressure sending unit is out, easy replacement, and not much money.

hmmmm... neither of those tricks worked for me. Still can't see images. Maybe someone who can see them can upload them here again ?

it would be nice to have the missing wiring diagrams.......

If they did an alignmement they should have also checked all the ball joints too. If it's still a problem then clearly they didn't fix it. Take a test drive with them and just let them explain how it is fixed since the problem is still there.

Ditto on the battery. Try a jump start/different (tested to be good) battery and see what happens.

did you use a torque wrench ?

There's not a significant difference between 5w-30 and 10w-30. I doubt you will notice anything different.

+1

Okay, so I took the panel off, turned on the ignition and I see the LED. It is flashing 8 quick short flashes followed by a pause, then it seems to just repeat. 8, pause, 8 pause.... Anyone know what that means ?

Sorry. It is a 1990 Loyale sedan, automatic, spfi So to help me understand, I can only read the flashing LED while the Check engine light is on , or does the LED keep flashing so long as the ignition is on ?

So, I'm driving home from the store last night and the old check engine light pops on. Then it goes off after about 1 minute. Car is running fine so there's no obvious reason for it. Is there a way to read the codes without having to buy a code reader ? I tried to do a search but no success. This forum does not allow search terms like "CEL" or "code". "Check engine light" returns too many unrelated results.

I had a similar problem once with my Loyale. Air filter was saturated with oil. Turned out the oil filter was not on tight enough and was leaking oil. The air filter intake was just sucking it in.

Okay, now your just showing off..... Yes, we want pictures !!!

I recently had a similar problem. My car would start right up when it was cold but not after I had been driving it for a while. I cleaned and charged the battery but still had problems. This intermittent behavior had me stumped. When I would try to start the car, the lights would dim so I knew in my case it was not the ignition switch. To get my car running I had to fiddle with the negative ground cable and I could never understand why it always seemed to be loose even though I had recently tightened it. I concluded the problem was the lightweight, original factory, negative battery terminal which over time had lost its ability to correctly tighten on the battery post. I simply replaced the terminal and now I get good ground connection and the car always starts.

wow, you did a ton of work there. Impressive.