tincan

How many miles have you managed to put on it so far? Found the skidplate and some other bits I missed when you took the car, including the "over the road" spark plug wrench (it attaches to the tire iron). Will put them in a crate and arrange to drop them off for you when I visit Rockland.

I'm slightly surprised it did bite it, I changed it out last Sept. Is the Maxima one a better choice? Had always read up about using them, never did it though.

It looks really good having some refreshed panels and the bits added back. That luggage rack really does look good on it, always wanted one for him! Damn, you blew up my spot with the Sonic! Sure will be weird not driving a Subaru for a while! Well, until I break down and buy one for the winter or something... Lol... Oh, and I have a Roebuck arc welder in the basement I forgot to pass along, in case you feel inclined to tackle the cancer. Otherwise, any competent welder can make short work of it and squash it before it goes from bad to "problematic". How's the gas mileage and air? Figure out how to get the radio to stream music? You'll need an extension cable to connect the aerial for FM, but, I used Spotify for my own radio station. Enjoy him!

Late update, as always. Actually, my last update to this thread, as I've sold my beloved little 'Can. I won't announce who bought it, just that they had a big 'ol smile during the whole 20+ mile test drive. Exit, stage right? No, will probably just follow it in the same fashion to see where it gets to go. Final mileage, 94,210

The 'ol tincan burnt through both of these recently, and I vaguely remember something about thicker diameter versions of their OE Replacements being sold out there. I'd like to narrow those down, if they still exist, but I don't know what exactly I'm looking for. Any help will be appreciated, as usual.

The wheels I got from a guy nearby had 185/70/13's on them. Granted they were rotted from sitting ten years, but none of them had fender scaring. They were on a wagon, too. But no, absolutely not trailer tires. As many have already explained in several ways, they're not meant for a car. On the other hand, you can, however, put four 'donut' spares on. They are DOT approved, for highway use (under 55mph), and since they are so narrow, in theory, they will improve your gas mileage.

I've been pondering this for the EA82 models for a long long time. Especially the hood, fenders, and front valiance panels (you know, the air dam under the bumper). The questions are: how much will the fiberglass reproductions weigh? And then of course the price...

I can't say whether this is true or not; but I know test lighting those leads with the lights on showed no power. I'll pull everything out and go over it again to be sure. The thing is though, if you say, Google this diagram, every source will claim the red and red/green wires as being illumination and constant for 1990-1993 and completely ignores the single pin connector entirely. So the write up was done to debunk possible confusion for those who might wind up dealing with this. That and save time with the test light ordeal.

KYB makes a decent stock replacement strut; albeit they have a slightly firmer than normal ride feel compared to an OEM. Sachs also makes a strut for this car, their Super Touring line, but I've no idea how they are. As a side note, the EA81 4WD models had adjustable suspension through dials and adjustment bolts. It's only about an inch (0.59" per setting), but it would allow you to freely choose as opposed to being stuck on one setting. Might be worth it if you can track the parts down.

Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.

Test light success. Will be making a write up to save those of you time and money in case you feel like making the harness as opposed to buying one.

Picked up an Alpine stereo to replace my completely defunct stock unit. Remembering distinctively that my Legacy had a complete hack of a wiring harness, I removed the harness from the stock unit itself. Low and behold, stock unit has 12 wires coming from it, but only 11 in the manual's schematic. So I splice, tie connect, and get it all tidy - only to be met with lots of blown fuses and a headache. I'm sure everyone who's done their radio knows; main adapter coming off radio has the 11-pin connector, and that the wires change color on the car's side. Pins one through four should be blue/yellow, black, red, red green, and correspond to switched 12v, ground, illumination, and constant 12v. The blue yellow wire, between the unit's connector and unit, has an inline 5A fuse. The red and red/green wires have another two flat terminal connector in the same place that goes back into the dash. Each scenario has a common variable: turning the headlights on to make sure the illum worked. First try; inline fuse in place, wired correctly, main and two pin connector plugged - no power, no fuses blown. Second try; same as above, minus two pin connector, same result. Third try; switched red/green and blue/yellow, no dice. Fourth try; rewired to schematic, remove 5A inline. Connect wiring to car, minis two pin connector - nothing nothing nothing. Fifth try; connect two pin as well, blow fuses 5/6. Right. Now at this point I know something's (radio edit) wrong. Fuse five is where the constant lead passes through into the fusable link, and fuse six contains the illumination. As for the twelfth lead coming out of the stock radio, it's orange and changes to green after the connector. Still, the fact the manual does not mention it (it literally doesn't come out of the radio in the schematic; completely missing) leads me to think it was added to the harness in 1993 when the car underwent it's final changes (or someone at Subaru is sadistic). Any ideas? I should have used my test light last night but I will today... Cause this is (radio edit) ridiculous.

It's not a bad idea to be honest. Just be sure you use bulbs that don't have the circuit boards exposed, as they get moisture in them and corrode easily. Just as well, for the turn signals, be forewarned that the relays in the car do not support these bulbs; the result is the blinkers flashing at a faster rate (as if you had a light out). Find some ballasts to correct it or simply ignore it.

Those are the only lamps in my car that aren't LED (well, minus dash, interior, and headlights) You guys got snow?!

I say go for it.