snofool

I can’t find your article with more info in the retro guide. Any pics or advice? After some time I figured it out. forgot how the cables were routed on the old car. Been running no e brake for 7 years. This is the first real maintenance in years. Overall smaller rotors with e brake is better.

I cant find pictures of what you guys did with the e brake cable routing. Anyone have pcs?

The car is still running good. 122,000 original miles on the car probably 140 on the engine. I am thinking about selling her for some space in my woodshop. If you know anyone interested let me know.

1989 gl 2.2ej 2"in lift

If you're on the road go with the 5 lug. The only drawback is getting your e brake back.

35,000 miles and counting. Just put in a spec stage 3 clutch replaced broken clutch fork new bearings and finally hooked up the oil pressure sending unit. Keep blowing out passenger cv boots. With just impreza struts and outback springs in the front. No extra lift. Just started to get some rust on the body panels.

Firs Time getting to wheel the Gl. IMG_1157.MOV

Here is the back side of baby lions back. And some pics from march in canyon lands. I tried elephant hill and got through most of the hard part but decided after burning the clutch and not having back up i should go back before breaking down in the desert. And still needing to drive home 600 miles. So far I've put 17,000 miles on the car with no worries. The overheating issue was solved by just sticking to the stock radiator. I wish I had lower gears. IMG_1157.MOV

215/60/16 nitto snow on xt turbo wheels. boss 2 in in rear and imreza struts in front 1-1.25''?

2in boss in the rear, Impreza struts in front about 1.5 in over stock 16 xt turbo wheels 215 60 16 nitto studless snow tires

After months of overheating I finally switched out to the stock 89 gl radiator, now it runs fine without the expansion tank. New injectors black ones. Everything seems to be running good with the new radiator and I have heat again! Not sure why the other system didn't work. But if it runs without overheating I will feel better about driving cross country in it. Which is always exciting. Plus i got some new wheels and snow tires!

Thanks for the reply. I was reading in here in a couple other spots about this but it was sorta unclear. I will try this today and report my results. All I needed was this yellow wire hooked up to a switched wire to get the proper voltage to the battery. The old alternator was not hooked up this way but the new one must need it to control the voltage regulator. Now I get 14.4/14.5

The other day I changed my spark plugs, easy enough. Until I hooked up my optima battery backwards! I wasn't really paying much attention I guess. I have never done this on anything before. The key was never turned on, none of the fuseable links were burnt or affected. But the alternator fried the diodes. Puff of smoke and gross electrical smell. So I took the alternator and got a reman from auto zone. Now when I hooked everything back up I was not charging to my knowledge. I was only getting 12.05v from the battery terminals while the car was running. Also as I run the car and use the accessories like lights, fan,heater fan, and so on, I see that the voltage meter is dropping in volts as I turn on more accessories. Currently I do not have the yellow wire in the alternator plug harness hooked up to switched power. Does this wire need to be tied into a switched power source to activate the voltage regulator? I will try and take some pictures for more clarity. I currently have the wiring as labeled below 90' 2.2 3wire alt plug. White from the plug ties into BLK/White(ea harness) Blk/White from the plug goes to charge light Red/White(ea harness) Yellow wire was not connected. I have read that people have hooked this yellow wire to a switched 12v power source. To activate the voltage regulator. I have not had this wire hooked up before and my battery after 5400mi on the swap is still @12.5v Do you think this has anything to do with the new alt needing this switched wire? If so can I tie into the coil wire from the old harness? This is the most accessible 12v switched source to my knowledge. Thanks for any advice!

now the other side is crapping out, drivers side

check all connections, airflow, vacuums,If mass air sensor is out or unplugged it won't start. Clean battery terminals and attachment points. Does it crank over?