snofool

I can’t find your article with more info in the retro guide. Any pics or advice? After some time I figured it out. forgot how the cables were routed on the old car. Been running no e brake for 7 years. This is the first real maintenance in years. Overall smaller rotors with e brake is better.

I cant find pictures of what you guys did with the e brake cable routing. Anyone have pcs?

The car is still running good. 122,000 original miles on the car probably 140 on the engine. I am thinking about selling her for some space in my woodshop. If you know anyone interested let me know.

1989 gl 2.2ej 2"in lift

If you're on the road go with the 5 lug. The only drawback is getting your e brake back.

35,000 miles and counting. Just put in a spec stage 3 clutch replaced broken clutch fork new bearings and finally hooked up the oil pressure sending unit. Keep blowing out passenger cv boots. With just impreza struts and outback springs in the front. No extra lift. Just started to get some rust on the body panels.

Firs Time getting to wheel the Gl. IMG_1157.MOV

Here is the back side of baby lions back. And some pics from march in canyon lands. I tried elephant hill and got through most of the hard part but decided after burning the clutch and not having back up i should go back before breaking down in the desert. And still needing to drive home 600 miles. So far I've put 17,000 miles on the car with no worries. The overheating issue was solved by just sticking to the stock radiator. I wish I had lower gears. IMG_1157.MOV

215/60/16 nitto snow on xt turbo wheels. boss 2 in in rear and imreza struts in front 1-1.25''?

2in boss in the rear, Impreza struts in front about 1.5 in over stock 16 xt turbo wheels 215 60 16 nitto studless snow tires

After months of overheating I finally switched out to the stock 89 gl radiator, now it runs fine without the expansion tank. New injectors black ones. Everything seems to be running good with the new radiator and I have heat again! Not sure why the other system didn't work. But if it runs without overheating I will feel better about driving cross country in it. Which is always exciting. Plus i got some new wheels and snow tires!

Thanks for the reply. I was reading in here in a couple other spots about this but it was sorta unclear. I will try this today and report my results. All I needed was this yellow wire hooked up to a switched wire to get the proper voltage to the battery. The old alternator was not hooked up this way but the new one must need it to control the voltage regulator. Now I get 14.4/14.5

The other day I changed my spark plugs, easy enough. Until I hooked up my optima battery backwards! I wasn't really paying much attention I guess. I have never done this on anything before. The key was never turned on, none of the fuseable links were burnt or affected. But the alternator fried the diodes. Puff of smoke and gross electrical smell. So I took the alternator and got a reman from auto zone. Now when I hooked everything back up I was not charging to my knowledge. I was only getting 12.05v from the battery terminals while the car was running. Also as I run the car and use the accessories like lights, fan,heater fan, and so on, I see that the voltage meter is dropping in volts as I turn on more accessories. Currently I do not have the yellow wire in the alternator plug harness hooked up to switched power. Does this wire need to be tied into a switched power source to activate the voltage regulator? I will try and take some pictures for more clarity. I currently have the wiring as labeled below 90' 2.2 3wire alt plug. White from the plug ties into BLK/White(ea harness) Blk/White from the plug goes to charge light Red/White(ea harness) Yellow wire was not connected. I have read that people have hooked this yellow wire to a switched 12v power source. To activate the voltage regulator. I have not had this wire hooked up before and my battery after 5400mi on the swap is still @12.5v Do you think this has anything to do with the new alt needing this switched wire? If so can I tie into the coil wire from the old harness? This is the most accessible 12v switched source to my knowledge. Thanks for any advice!

now the other side is crapping out, drivers side

check all connections, airflow, vacuums,If mass air sensor is out or unplugged it won't start. Clean battery terminals and attachment points. Does it crank over?

Codes are 11 crank angle sensor 13 cam angle sensor 14 injector 1 15 injector 2 16 injector 3 17 injector 4 23 airflow sensor 24 air control valve 49 airflow sensor you almost covered all of them. good luck

I am getting a 33 code. VSS. It is hooked up but it is still throwing a code for it. Yellow/red wire under dash? I checked it on a diagram but car still throws it. And code 17 injector 4. Car started to idle funny at stop light and I could tell it was running on three cylinders. Then it runs just fine. Not getting good mileage however. 21-22mpg. I have some new injectors that will go in today. Anyone else running no vss? How much will this affect the performance of the ej?

After Driving it in the sand, I want better suspension in the rear of the vehicle and a turbo wouldn't hurt. I guess I'm half way there already with the expansion tank and all. IMG_1902.MOV

Hooked the drivers side fan to a relay and a switch inside the car. I have driven over 4000 mi in the last three or four weeks and the car has been pretty good overall. I want a franken motor and a turbo now. I am heading to glamis sand dunes in the morning to burn up my clutch and practice digging in the sand. I will try and remember to take some pics and videos to share.

First oil change @ 93000 give or take and the first road trip proving well so far. I need to upgrade rear suspension to match the quality of the front. It would be nice to have the fans on a relay as well so they would kick on and off when needed. 3500 mi and counting on the swap so far. it's more fun at sea level for sure.

The first road trip to california will start on wednsday. 1000+ miles. We will see if the napa axels hold up. I know she will run cool. It will be 80 deg in phoenix. Here's to the adventure. Good thing I haven't used my aaa this year.

One more axel and it already clicks. Boo napa. I guess I will buy some subaru axels. I don't even have the front lift on anymore. I'm running impreza AGX struts w/o lift blocks. Maybe one inch lift. I was going to lower the engine, but it seems I do not have room with the radiator fans and the power steering wheel. I might get an inch if i'm lucky. So many hurdles, so I will run it as is for now. I also need to align the rear passengers tire. The minike special is just that, special. It still takes special attention while driving. Torque steer in 2wd. And the car drives the same, has a good pull to the right. They did manage to get my steering wheel to look straight. I'm sure it will be ok but it's anoying me so I will see what else or whom else I know that can help me fix this. On dirt it's great. On the highway it's terrible. Especially in grooves. In the future I would not 5lug again. Mostly because of the driveline issues (axels). And the difficulty getting the correct fit. I have not gone the custom route yet but I might if this one fails too quickly.

If you have the harness loomed already, it isn't that hard to run it through the fender or the grommets in the corner by the windshield. And there are only about 7 wires without the oil pressure to hook up. All the wires you need are under the dashboard. or in the wheel well(tach) I ran a wire to the coil(yellow wire) from ej computer. Then the power wire for the system, 30amp 10ga wire. I spliced into the fuel pump under the dash from the old fuel pump power. But once I hooked up Ground/fuel pump/switched power and constant power it was running. Then the speed sensor, temp gauge, and check engine light, oil warning light and so on. Good luck and it is looking' good. You will love the new engine.

89 GL 1990 EJ 2.2 XT6 5 lug swap 2013 BRZ radiator w/ expansion tank Outback wheels 2x Spal thin 12"in straight blade fans. They are pretty loud when both are on. you only need one fan with this radiator. SJR adapter plate Boss 2in lift w/ 2008-2013 WRX coil overs.(front) Stock rear suspention. Firestone winterforce tires 205/60/16

nice ride, I saw it on craigslist here for a while. As long as you run the car with the heat on full blast you should be able to get most of the bubbles out. Also make sure you are filling it from the highest point. Or get a radiator funnel. This is one that hooks up to your radiator cap and allows you to over fill it. Then it allows you to plug the hole and take the funnel off without spilling. I am in boulder if you need a hand. I was dealing with the same thing for the last couple of days. feel free to pm me if you want a hand. cheers