yeah-right

Thanks for that - a goldmine of info. But unfortunately only covers the EJ18, EJ20 & EJ20T. Mine seems to have a unique model code BFBBK6.... it's a GX Limited model not a Mi, TZ or VZ. It was NZ new not a used import which is common down here - I dunno if it was like a special that was only sold down under in Aus & NZ but I've never seen a turbo version of a EJ22.

Anyone got any info on this - what the numbers mean etc? Specifically I'm wondering what the differences are between a "TZ102ZG1AA" & a "2AA".

I've driven my '91 2.2 Auto 4WD Legacy wagon on soft sand - it copes as long as you don't stop or bottom out on the belly.

I found that 10A is too sall - I run a 15A.

lol - sorry for hijacking your thread!

I too am from New Zealand and I have to say it seems your automatic tranmission "specialists" over there in the US don't know ****. Duty Solenoid C causing binding on tight turns on AWD Legacys is common knowledge over here - even the local corner garage knows about it. But there are so many posts regarding this subject with so many people saying that the shops they took the car to had no idea what was causing it. It makes me wonder if they've even been trained on auto's! And US$500 to replace it??? That's about NZ$770. But it costs less than NZ$200 to have the job done here. I have a Kiwi friend who lived in Chicago & now is in Hudson who says the same thing. I'm not trying to be an ******* - but it just seems like this is the norm - paying big bucks for expertise that isn't. Seems that in the US people won't go beyond their niche of training. I know that's a gross generalisation - but you get the idea. Anyone got any idea why this might be? Is the automotive trade over regulated there or something? Or is it the cost of public liability insurance or something? I'd really like to know why the huge differences.

Seems to me that the Legacy's are very sensitive to tyre imperfections. Anyone know why this might be? Mine has king springs (std height) & KYB shocks - a lot firmer than standard - but not what I would describe as hard.

A flashing "POWER" light on startup is a indicator that there has been a transmission fault present. However it is unsual that it only does it sometimes - normally it will flash every time the ignition is switched on until the memory is cleared. Go through the proceedure to check & clear the fault code. Then if it does it again then start looking at the fault it gave.

Yeah - rotor - we call them discs here more often than rotors.

I figured the way to do it would be leave the reduction gear off the shaft that transfers torque to the front differential & disconnect the Duty Solenoid C (replacing it with similar resistance to fool the computer). But that relied on the clutch pack being able to take the full power, which you say it isn't capable of. So instead I may have to get a second transfer clutch basket assembly & look at welding it up. Then if it breaks I can put my one back in with the reduction gear without dropping the trans. Sound like a plan to you? I have a second car so there's no real worry - it's just something I've always wanted to try. Since the Subaru's up to 260k now it's getting a bit tired anyway. Thanks for your input - much appreciated.

I believe it's the "Duty Solenoid C" that actually causes the problem - not the clutch pack. There are different rate springs for the transfer clutch too. From memory this can actually be done on-car - but don't quote me on that - so that seems expensive. The last time I had my transfer case off was 4½ years ago when the trans was out for another reason - that front diff drive shaft that runs down the right side of the trans ran the front bearing - you know the one - the non-standard flanged expensive Subaru only bearing.......

It could be the other side but if it only does it on the left turn it seems unlikely - normally you'll get a click on either left or right turns if it's a worn CV unless it's only just on it's way out. And normally you can tell which side it's coming from just by listening.

Any bearing outfit will have one. They're a common type. Just make sure you put the vanes in the pump around the same way they came out & preferably in the same slots too. I actually disconnected my p/s when mine went because I was in another city some 200km from home. I got a shorter belt to run the alternator & drove the car home without p/s. Good exercise.... When you refill the p/s reservoir just bleed it by hand by turning the pulley forward & back. Then you won't get the initial shudders.

Ok - this may sound funny - but I had a warped front disc that caused exactly those symptoms. Funny thing was it was barely noticeable on braking. If you have a DTI, check the runout. If you don't - just raise the front wheels one at a time & turn them by hand. Listen & feel for any binding - they should turn smoothly.

My power steering pump bearing went at about that mileage - it can be done without removing the pump or the fluid lines - so it's not a major. And it's a standard caged ball bearing too - although I forget the number. Just get the one with double seals if you do go to replace it. Of course it could be alternator bearings too. Or water pump - although unlikely. Worst case scenario timing belt idler bearing.

Could be a separated tire - I've had this problem too. What's the car? 4WD or FWD? Is it worse when accelerating?

Hi! I'm new here but a long standing member of Ford Forums. Which is ironic since I've had my Subaru longer than my Ford. Does anyone know whether the Duty Solenoid C which controls the drive to the rear wheels needs 99% duty cycle to engage the clutch or 0%? I think it's 0% since the car is supposed to be towed with all 4 wheels off the gound which would indicate that with the ignition off the clutch would be engaged hence the rear wheels would drive the trans if it was to be towed with just the front wheels raised. The reason I ask is this. Today the front diff (I think) went ping. I believe it's got a missing pinion tooth. It started a a chatter on deceleration about 3 weeks back so I thought it was just a chipped tooth on the trailing edge of a crown wheel - but it seems like it may have been more like a crack which has become a broken tooth. Anyway I've always wondered what the car would be like as a RWD. I'm going to pull the trans tomorrow for diagnostic purposes and I may well try to change the car to RWD only. I wonder if the rear diff can handle all the power on it's own (not that there's much power - couldn't pull the top off a rice pudding). Also - does anyone know what the ratio on the diff is? I know the NA's are taller geared than the turbos. I could wait until I get it out but I'm impatient! Actually I'd like to try to price one to see if it effects my decision to go RWD. Thanks in advance!