ystrdyisgone

Correct, just use a standard ea throwout bearing.

Miles, I'll try that if there is ever a "next time." This motor is all back together and ready to go back in the car tomorrow. Except for the pesky centering pin stuck in the old shortblock..

Noticed this today as I was finishing up piecing together my 2.5L DOHC. The previous rebuilt motor had this harmonic balancer on it. It spun a rod bearing, so just swapped shortblocks. I'm nearing the end of the race, and curious if this amount of damage could cause issues. If so it's got me wondering if this little mechanical component could have caused the spun bearing?

Thanks for the input guys, I took it down to a local shop today to get some advice in person. I told him I was leaning towards using some really fine grit sandpaper with lots of wd40. He didn't see a problem with that. I tried as best as I could to do it in an angled crosshatch pattern. Didn't get them sparkling, but they were pretty smooth. At this point I don't really have the time or the money to pursue other routes so this is just gonna have to work. Hopefully it won't run into issues anytime soon.

I've been working on my latest project, a 99 outback that I got for 600 bucks with a bad rod bearing. I got a shortblock from another board member, and haven't looked at it until tonight. I was so excited to get everything all swapped onto the new block that I didn't even think to check the cylinder walls. This is what I found tonight. I scrubbed them up a bit with a scotch brite pad and some oil. This is after the scrubbing: This is as deep as I have ever been into an engine, and at this point I don't know what to do. The quicker and easier the fix the better, not really wanting to pull the pistons and re-hone. does this need a hone, or is there something else I could try first? Thanks!

might be rpholz's? edit: maybe not actually, looking closer, his gauges were all inside, he was apparently against ejs in older body styles, and also in NC

That, or you could make one. I've been contemplating fabbing up one of these doohickeys myself. I've got enough flat stock and grade 8 bolts laying around to make something work.

Dang, I'm not sure if they're the same. I know the dohc ones have a lip on the edge of the top PS and the bottom DS. The top DS sprocket looks like yours, if they're the same diameter I'm sure it would work. The bottom PS one mounts differently (not a recessed bolt like the others) so probably wouldn't work. It may, but you would also probably need the corresponding bolt (probably longer) On another note, I'd still hit up Matt(AdventureSubaru), he may have SOHC ones too.

Contact AdventureSubaru, he's got parts from two dohc's laying around.

From the pictures from the manual in the background I'm going to guess dohc 2.5

An idea for next time: wrap the old belt around the sprocket, and then apply your channel locks.

Yeah I wouldn't chance it. That's just asking for trouble. Not a question of IF it will cause problems, but a question of how long will it take to shred the belt?

I definitely thought it was a fuel issue too, but I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the iacv. I think the temp sensor did it. I read somewhere that if that sensor is malfunctioning, it will cause starting issues, as well as idle issues due to the ecu thinking the car is still cold. This would produce a richer fuel mixture, which would explain many of my symptoms. Since those two things were replaced it has been problem free!

Perhaps he's referring to an ea82 flywheel when he says "I have the larger flywheel" ?

The pictures are of the trans you are trying to identify right? If so, it has dual range, and that leaves you with only one possibility, 5MT D/R. You'll want a 4wd clutch kit for an 86 or so GL. Rockauto has many options that include pilot bearing and throwout bearing assembly. I swear by exedy, but they aren't cheap.

Thanks Dinky, I'm gonna miss it for sure. It's been quite the fun project. FS thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149731-fs-87-ej-swapped-gl-wagon-mt-2500/

Sad day here, this car is now for sale. I've recently picked up an Outback, and have no need for this vehicle anymore. I thought I would post it on here first, then get it up on craigslist at some point. Will post a link to the FS thread once I get it typed up.

Thanks for all the help people, I think I'll be swapping in an ej22 next spring. For now though, my seasonal job wants me to start asap, and I'd really like to get this OB going. I'm looking into simply replacing the shortblock of the 2.5. There are a couple ej25 shortblocks floating around the web from 2000+. Seems to me the blocks would be very similar. Anyone have experience using newer shortblocks with older heads and intake manifolds? Yes I know it's counter intuitive, but I just want to get this thing running.

Thanks for the input Chux. When/If I do this, I don't expect to run too much boost. I prefer reliability over power. But I sure would like a mix of both! I'll have to look into parallel fuel rails, never heard of such a thing. It is looking like a project for next year though. Time, money, and garage are all lacking.

Thanks guys, that's very helpful. @VaporTrail- I was planning on using the 2.5 ecu and "letting it learn" but that is not seeming like such a good idea anymore. (there's also a RRFPR and a voltage clamp involved) I've decided I'm going to consider this adventure in the spring. Winter's coming, and I just want to have a running, newer gen car for the winter commute. @86Bratman- I appreciate the offer, and will remember that if/when I decide to do this!

I am a bit short on time and money. Currently a driveway mechanic, and it's starting to threaten snow out here. Oh I was talking whole engine. I guess I'm not on the right page here. I was under the assumption that a phase 2 ej22 would plug right in and run off the stock 2.5 ecu. Am I supposed to be looking for a phase 1 (95-96) one?

Update on the car: Got the t-belt covers off. Everything under there looks great. This engine is spotless too, no oil leaks at all. It's really a sad thing. I cranked the crank pulley with a breaker bar before removing the covers and can most definitely hear bad noises coming from inside the block. Supercharger idea is now cancelled. So back to square one. Looking around for a 99 ej22, or a low mileage 2.5. lmdew I definitely like the $$ side of your offer, but the mileage is a bit worrisome.

Hey all, I've been digging and trying to find info on building a reverse frankenmotor. I have a supercharger kit, with brackets and much more, and it's ready to bolt onto an ej. I'm thinking of going the opposite route of a frankenmotor, and building one with an ej22 block and ej25d heads and intake to create a low compression engine. I have found a couple people that have done it, but there are no details whatsoever. I personally am doing a bunch of research, but I thought I would reach out and see what people's thoughts are on the idea, or if anyone here has done such a build (probably not the supercharger, but the motor itself?) It will be going into a 99 outback which originally came with the 2.5.

lmdew- that's tempting, I'll let you know if I decide to head the 2.5 route. As of right now, I'm really considering picking up this supercharger, and running low boost(5-10) on a reverse frankenmotor (2.5d heads, 2.2 shortblock preferably phase II) Going to do some more research and see if it's as simple as swapping out the shortblock. I read that the stock 2.5 ecu will be fine with the changes as long as I get a voltage clamp for the maf. But again, also have to do some more research on that.

@grossgary- Hmm, well it's not 25% grade, it must be either more miles, or less elevation gain. Okay looked it up, it is actually only 6200 to ~7500. It's also not an interstate. And it's Big Sky, to be specific. I'll check her engine out this week. @craigmcd- I'm not looking to sell the car. I'll be keeping it and probably selling my EJ'd GL. So it may be worth it. But I also am leaning towards finding a used ej22, resealing it and calling it a day.