ystrdyisgone

Thanks for the suggestion, fortunately my wife is much more competent than most. Got it home safe! Here it is! 167K on the clock 200 bucks! It runs and drives, just needed a jump. Transmission shifts very nicely, but the engine leaks mucho oil, so we towed it just to be safe.

Thank you sir, I knew there had to be a term for what I was talking about. Flat tow it I shall!

Another thought.. Back when my clutch cable broke in my 87 GL I towed it 6 miles home with my wife driving(steering) it, engine running and tranny not in gear. Not sure if this is advisable or not, didn't cause any damage that I'm aware of. Could I do the same sort of thing with this legacy? The tow would be about 8 miles.

Hello everyone, The time has finally come, I found a 90 legacy with around 170K on the engine for a pretty good deal. I'm going to check it out this afternoon. I don't know exactly what's wrong with it. The owner said the engine still runs fine, but there's something messed up with the transmission. It's a 5 speed, and apparently it "doesn't work?" Like I said I'll be checking it out, and will know more later, but I'm curious if there is a common failure point on those trannys that may be able to be jerry rigged just so I can limp it home. I don't have access to anything to tow it, and apparently there's no title, so I'm not sure I can get it towed without proof of ownership. Any thoughts would be great! Thanks!

No, I've got a cheap one. just a needle for the readout

What the hell's a DVOM? Haha. Digital Volt O Meter??

Anyone have a picture of those trans mount spacers? I just grabbed the xmember spacers from the junkyard but all the trans pieces were taken off. I tried digging around in the cars to find them but didn't see anything that looked right.

I don't think it's a reman. It's got numbers written on it with a paint pen like it was pulled off a parts car. But I'll try to blow it out tomorrow. I swapped back to my old alt for now. And no I didn't file it down at all, could a slight misalignment be causing this intermittent issue though? Yes the belts were tight.

Just to add, I was a tooth off on one side and was getting backfires out the carb. Seems like it may just be as simple as being a tooth off. And a bit more detail: My drivers side idler seized and shredded that belt, so I was simply doing an R&R and had the same issues, I didn't touch the disty, plug wires, etc..

I just had the same thing happen to me, replaced the belts according to milesFoxs video. The first two times I ended up with the same results as yours. My solution is a bit trial and error, but if remember correctly, I aligned my pass side cam gear about a half a tooth counter-clockwise, rather than directly lined up. Worked like a charm. Maybe give it a shot on the drivers side? A bit off one direction, then the other.

Well spoob, I just bought the thing. Hopefully it's just the wiring.

I just put a Maxima alternator into my 87 GL a few weeks ago. Everything worked as expected until a few days ago. Now when I start my car, the red lights on my dash stay on(charge, egr, etc) and my voltage looks to be reading just the battery. If I rev the engine to 4000, or accelerate hard, it seems to "catch" the alternator, and it begins to charge as normal. The volt meter jumps back to normal operating range and stays that way as long as the car is running. If I shut it off the process starts all over again. Any ideas? I did swap the single pulley to the double, will check tightness in the morning.

Awesome, just what I was hoping. Thanks Gloyale!

Hello all, So I've had a BOSS lift installed in my 87 wagon for a few months now. She still rolls, but the front cvs are pretty unhappy. The camber is bad too. Someone posted on my build thread about putting in spacers to lower the crossmember, radius rods etc. My only concern with this is the steering linkage. I did just pick up a new welder, but I am not so confident in my welding skills yet, to hack up such a crucial connection. Are there any newer models that I could just grab the linkage from in a junkyard? If not I guess I'll have to fab one up myself. My other question is concerning the spacers that are on the outback crossmembers. is this something that I could take and throw onto my car pretty easily? Thanks!

Honda springs can lift the rears, but then you're left with the fronts. There are many writeups, as well as people who sell complete lift kits, check out the "Products for your Subaru section"

Yes look in the retrofitting section of the forum

here ya go, happy reading! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/67098-please-read-ej-swap-write-up-ver-20-now-in-pdf-form/

Ah, well thank you for this explanation, its much clearer now!

Cougar, agreed. But it seems I am expecting too much from an 87 carbed suby.

Hmm I guess I never looked at it that that way. It doesn't seem to me that it would be physically "harder to turn" but rather only a set amount of power available at a certain rpm. So in my mind I'm thinking the lights should be slightly dimmer at low Rpms, but idle should remain the same? I shall do some more research on the subject

As the title says, I've noticed my idle drops with more electrical draw on the circuit. If I shut off anything(heater/lights have the most effect), the idle instantly goes up by 100 or so rpm. I did just install the 90 amp nissan alternator, thinking this would help, but the problem remains. Any ideas what could be going on? Thanks ahead of time.

I may do the sea foam treatment once the carb is fixed. So now I have to decide if I'm going to take the carb off and replace all the new pieces I got in the kit, or just replace the AP diaphragm. The carb was installed new by the PO about 15000 miles ago, so I'm leaning towards just doing the diaphragm. Any suggestions?

It used to diesel a lot, but I noticed it does it much less if I fill up with super unleaded or premium. I skipped the solenoid for that reason.

Most (a few?) of the vacuum lines are for emissions, many people do a Weber swap onto the ea82 and a large majority of those lines are deleted. I would guess you could get rid of many even with the stock carb, but hopefully someone with more knowledge can chip in with specifics. You might try searching for weber conversions on the site to get an idea of what can be removed. EDIT: Maybe I'll learn to keep my mouth shut about things I don't know