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Just found the other end hanging loose behind the engine, it was hiding a bit. Today I learned even more, to investigate further on the car, and on the site, before posting. This thread can be deleted.

About a week ago, during our most recent deep freeze, my heat selector switches stopped working. (Defrost, Vent, Floor, etc..) From my reading around the board, I gathered that it's a vacuum issue. An issue presented itself to me right when I opened the hood: This is the vacuum canister right? Goes from the engine, across the firewall then down into the cab from there. So I'm confused because my selector switches have worked since I've owned the car, but this loose hose appears to just be sitting there, there is no other hose coming from the intake that mates up to it. Or even a bare vacuum port on the intake, they're all plugged. So I guess the question is, is this my problem? Thanks!

So I'm looking at this kit right now http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=92.3237.05&CartID=2 . I'm also considering getting this cutoff solenoid http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=43914.060&CartID=1 I read that it replaces the primary jet, does anyone have a picture of how this looks? I can't seem to picture it in my head.

Ah, yeah I don't know much about the internals of the weber. It's a 32/36 DGEV. I only call it a gasket because that's what it appears to be when looking at it from the outside.

Thanks for the response Ferox. Between a bad gasket or a rupture diaphragm is one more likely? Seems it might be worth buying a rebuild kit anyway at 24 bucks..

I noticed I've been going through a tank more quickly than normal lately, and popped the hood to see what I could find. I noticed I have a significant leak coming from the bottom end of my weber carb. Looks to be right at the accelerator pump. Hoping it's just that gasket. Here's a video for more clarity. Thoughts anyone? Well, video isn't working right now, may get it loaded later. But it's a very consistent leak that drips a few drops of fuel every time I give it hard throttle. The accelerator pump arm is soaked by rev #5

Yeah, I'm sold on the shop idea. Thanks for the input guys

Thanks for the info Steve, I am rethinking this whole DIY thing, I looked outside, and thought "oh yeah it's winter, and I don't have a garage."

Idasho, ton of money = $250-300. Thanks for the advice and the ballpark quote. I may just go the shop route after all. How's that 2.25 exhaust? Would you go 2 inch if you could do it all over? I've just heard talk about losing backpressure, and whatnot.

Anyone ever tried those universal exhaust pipe kits? Build your own sorta deal. My exhaust is rusting out and I don't really feel like shelling out a ton of money to have a shop re-do it.

We just got back from checking it out. The interior is pretty much spotless, exterior in good condition. Out here in MT though, used subarus go for much higher than other places I've seen. They are in really high demand and one doesn't generally find one with less than 200k. The wife is pretty set on getting it. We gave him a deposit today. It's a tough call, we've been looking around for a while now and are at the point where we need two vehicles, like tomorrow. Looks like we'll be biting the bullet. :/

Hello all, My wife and I are taking a look at this beauty this morning, I'm thinking of offering him 5000. Anyone have any input on what it's worth? http://montana.craigslist.org/cto/4122311470.html Thanks!

Good guess sir, those are the ones. Got any pics of them mounted on the front? I'm just curious how the offset looks/works. I think I can get a set of four for 60 bucks. Also what size tires are on the ones in the first pic? 235s?

So I'm at the point of putting some new wheels on the wagon. I checked these out today, they're off a Mazda. The lip that goes around the bolt area is a bit concerning. I haven't decided yet whether I'm going to drill the wheels or the hubs. I'd rather drill as little as possible, but might I have some trouble drilling these wheels? Thanks

Thanks Tom, I did indeed follow that routing. The pedal feels like butter. Such a huge improvement!

AK, yeah I've been on the lookout for a set. Only regular yota wheels on CL near me. Closest set I found is way down in Idaho. 40 bucks, but still a bit far.. I'm also just hoping some 15 pugs will pop up somewhere, somehow... Haha

Replaced my broken clutch cable today.The OEM is soooo much better/smoother than aftermarket cable that was in there. That, and I found out the PO installed the last cable wrong, the metal piece that goes between the mounting plate and pedal assembly is actually attached now. Took her for a spin and noticed vibration/grinding when I let off the gas. I'm hoping the axles will just "get used to" the new angles. If not, I'll have to add some xmember spacing after all :/.

Ohhhhhhhh! Yeah the last clutch cable was installed incorrectly. But I see now..

So I'm in the middle of the clutch cable replacement process, and something doesn't look right. These two bits of metal are rubbing and I don't think that is supposed to be happening. Probably a very noob question, but am I missing something obvious here? Thanks!

Looks awesome! What color blue is that?

I've got some 205/70/15s, it's the wheels that I need. Haven't been able to find the right offset though..

Whew.. well I finally got that all finished up. I ended up taking off the tie rod as well, that gave me a bit more wiggle room. I couldn't get the knuckle to sit still while I was trying to get the strut in so I had to do this: But it still wasn't enough, so it turned into this: And the other side was as smooth as butter, so that was nice. Here she is! A little dark, but oh well. P.s. Thanks bratman18 for the advice on the fronts

I did that, for a little bit anyway, then gave up. I shall try again!

So this happened today.. Got the rears on with no issues whatsoever. But then I got to the front, and now I'm stuck with this: Sway bar linkage is off, disconnected the control arm bolt(though that probably didn't do much) I don't really know what to try from here. Turns out I don't have a 17mm wrench to remove the radius rod, nor do I have a breaker bar long enough to loosen the two bolts at the other end of the radius rod. I'm wary about popping the knuckle off the ball joint because the only way i've seen to get them back on is a 4 foot breaker bar to wedge the control arm back into place. Any suggestions? Please?

Ahh dang it all... I ordered the part at like 4 o clock.. didn't check back til now. Thanks though! I'll be sure to check with you first next time I'm in need.