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Mine was built in March 87, so looks like I'll be ordering the 37026GA081. Thank you very much!

The clutch cable snapped in my 87 4wd GL Wagon last week and I've had a hell of a time trying to track down the correct replacement. Would anyone be so kind to check their FSM for me to get a part number? One of the shops I called wanted $65 for one, the part number ended in "83" Called the dealership and they can get one to me for 37+ shipping, so about 57 bucks after all is said and done. But the part number they gave me is 37026GA100. I would hate to go through all this trouble to pay for shipping and have it be the wrong part. This is my DD and I'm trying to get her going asap. Thanks!

Digging up this old thread... I bought this car about a year ago and the cable he replaced broke on me yesterday. It's in the same spot as the last one that broke too. So it's got me wondering maybe the first cable, and thus, the one he replaced, were routed wrong? It seems the current routing has the cable rubbing on the firewall? I'd just like to get some opinions on this before I go ahead and get the new cable in. Also, if anyone would be so kind, what's the standard length on a 4wd 87 wagon cable. The auto parts stores have me running all around town and still haven't come up with the right one..

So the wife brought the ole wagon home the other night and the interior lights as well as the brake lights were no longer working(dome and map lights don't work. Hatch light does) The tail lights are on but there is apparently no signal getting through when the brakes are applied. Also the middle light in the rear window doesn't light up at all, will be checking the bulb tomorrow. I checked fuses, they all look good. Hoping I don't have to dig too deep into the wiring here. I am open to any advice/ ideas. Thanks!

Well.. I ran. Rocker panels were pretty much gone among other things. And so much rust.. Thanks for the responses though!

Hey guys, I'm going to check out an 83 wagon this afternoon, just wondering if there are things to watch out for in these vehicles. It's listed for 500 so my hopes aren't too high about its condition, but any advice about when to run away is appreciated. Thanks folks!

Thanks for the pics and details. I'm still on the fence about spacers, but if I do decide to do them, I may go this route. Nice and simple looking!

For these maybe? I have no further information other than the link and that I have seen these lights mentioned on the forum before. http://www.mttechsuba.com/used-subaru-loyale-parts/1985-1994-loyale/2267676

Haha yeah, if I'm going to redrill them I may as well go 6-lug. I'm trying to avoid that route though. I have no angle grinder or welder to really do the job right.

Now that you mention it, the lug spacing doesn't quite look wide enough, huh? At $30 bucks for the set, I was really hoping...

Found these puppies on CL. I was going to look into the wheel page from the indysworld site, but looks like that oage is gone Can anyone help me identify these things? Ad says they are for subaru, I just haven't seen 14" steelies other than pugs before.

Soo.. rookie mistake. When I was twisting the steering input shaft, the key was off, so the play was the steering lock. With the key engaged, there is not much noticeable play. I will note though, there is play when I lift up or push down on the steering wheel. Along with this play comes a clicking noise, and feeling each time stress is put on the column (either direction) I removed the two bolts that secure the steering column, and lowered it. Did a visual inspection, and tried to tighten the two bolts for the internal steering linkage, they were tight. Buttoned it all back up, and there's still the same amount of upward/downward play, as well as the clicking. I had a friend lift up and down on the wheel while I held the steering linkage in the engine bay. There was little to no movement at that point, so I have it narrowed down to the column area, just not sure where to go from here.

I just checked the steering linkage, it's all tight, the looseness appears to be between the pinion gear and the rack. There's an 1/8 -1/4 inch of play each way when I twist the steering. I'll try to tighten up the rack pad adjuster, though when I'm under the car I can't seem to see the thing.. Bout to go try again.. Edit: oh, now I see it.. hmm.. do i really have to drop the exhaust??

I did just get an alignment/balancing about 1500 miles ago. But it may be something to look into once I've ruled everything else out. Whether that is it or not, my front end still needs a good combing through.

Awesome, thanks caspice! So is the adjustment bolt you were referring to called "Rack pad adjuster/Lock nut" or "Lower bearing retaining nut/screw?"

Thanks for the heads up. This is what I was wondering about. Was about to cross my fingers and hope the lift had no ill effects on the car. Sounds like I will regret that though. If you could post pics or dimensions that would be great. I'm having trouble picturing the radius rod spacers.

I don't really do much wheeling. Mostly around town driving, but it's nowhere near being called "dense." I occasionally parallel park. The wife and I generally go camping/hiking a couple times a week and sometimes I take it off road, but I don't think it would be considered wheeling.. Thanks for all the input guys, all the info has definitely helped me in the decision-making process. Caspice, I don't consider that a thread-jack at all, very useful information, directly relating to the subject of the post. Thanks again!

Halfway through typing up the thread it occurred to me that this has probably been discussed before. Thanks for the link sir, and apologies for lack of using the search function!

As WCSS 15 approaches, I know many of you will be traveling some significant distances. I too will be making a 2500 mile trip in my 87 GL very soon. I am curious about what everyone does to prepare for such a journey. What things are mandatory to check, what should there be backups of in the car, etc. Any ideas about "must-have" items are quite welcome as well.

Good idea on the zip ties, I saw that on someone's thread a while ago. Those wheels are about 6 hours away from me, a bit too far considering my bank account at the moment. From Bill, it's a BOSS lift, look in the "products for your subaru" section. I got one of the last ones, he may have a couple left. $120 shipped EDIT: Bill just updated his thread, they are all sold.

Oh boy what's this?! Next step wheels, and I may have to go for the crossmember spacers later, after the first round of axles popping (lifetime warranty on them)

Thanks for the input JJ, definitely paints a better picture of what I'm up against. Caspice, both front axles are fresh(reman) replacements. Lug nuts are tight, got an alignment done within the last 1500 miles. I do know that one of my outer tie rod boots is collapsed, but there is no play when wiggling the wheel horizontally. Well there is, but the movement is occurring within the rack itself. I'll definitely look into the adjustment bolt and see if that helps. Gloyale, you have a good point there.. And I did just get two new v-belts. The only reason I was considering a manual rack is the simplicity of it, less things can go wrong. Seeing as my lower PS seals are leaking, it seems just a matter of time before I have to fix something else in the PS system.

Accidental double post, this can be deleted.

So my little subie's power steering rack is starting to weep out the DS boot. I have also begun to notice symptoms in the steering wheel itself, shaking at higher speeds, and a general looseness that wasn't present before. Back when I first got the car (185k, now at 193k) I accidentally topped off the reservoir with standard ps fluid. This was by recommendation of an oreillys worker. I was informed a couple weeks later by a subie mechanic that the seals in these old cars(ea82) don't respond well to standard ps fluid and i should have used atf? I think he said atf, any validity to this? Anyway, I'm debating whether or not to switch to a manual rack. Wondering how difficult such a task would be. I have also heard of people converting their existing rack to a manual? Though this may not be an option for me, as mine is already showing signs of looseness? As always, thanks for any input provided!

I wonder if one could get some rubber from the hardware store and shape it as needed to fit? Not sure if they sell high enough quality rubber off the shelf, but it's a thought...